I recommend a guide. The first time my wife and I dived BHB, we got a detailed briefing at Force-E and took a photocopied map of the underwater topography. We entered the water and promptly got lost, wandering off course and away from where we thought we wanted to go. Oh, it was still a decent dive, but we just didn't go where we had intended and saw a lot more sand than anything else. It's easy to wander off course because you're naturally going to spend most of your time scanning the bottom and not focused on your compass. If you don't know the "landmarks" and you are not an ace compass navigator, you might find yourself off course. The second time we dived BHB we hired a guide from Force-E and saw much more stuff. Even the last time we were there a few weeks ago we got a little lost. The good thing is that you can just pop up to the surface and orient yourself.