arms for ikelite-housing

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

rameus

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
129
Reaction score
13
# of dives
200 - 499
hello everyone

after switching from my Canon G10 to my DSLR (Nikon D90) I figured it would be good to have a second substrobe (1x6" at the moment). at the moment i have an ikelite ds160 substrobe.

- what would you recommend as arms and strobe if the goal would be wideangle photography and every now and then a bit macro?
- how does a strobe mounted directly on the housing help?

since I am quite new to DSLR uw-photography I do have "amateur"-questions ;-) all the photos I made so far and which can be seen in the underwater photography section of my website were made either with an oooold Sony DSC-T30 or my Canon G10.

thanks for your help anyway... hope I'll get some good shots to post after my next trip.

Thomas
 
Hi Thomas,
there are many producers of strobe/video light arms:
Ikelite: Strobe Arm Systems
Inon: INON Arm System [Arm]
ULCS: Ultralight Control Systems
TLC: (Aquatica) Aquatica Digital - Featuring an extensive line of underwater housings for Nikon and Canon digital cameras

ULCS are the most used and so easier to get a used part.

you will need:
1° 1 ULCS BA-IK Adapter Ikelite tray handle --> Ultralight ball joint Housing Trays and Arms for Underwater Photography
2° 2 ULCS Double ball arm segments 5''-8'' long
3° 1 ULCS AD-125 strobe adapter ULCS Ball Joint --> Ikelite Substrobe
4° 3 ULCS AC-CSF new style clamp

Arms longer than 8'' are getting difficult to handle and are needed only on extreme wide angle and i suggest 8''
as a good compromise. Your camera/housing is very negative and tip over, so buoyancy arms will help to reduce that and
give the camera a neutral buoyancy, but i never used them so i don't know what size of floats/buoyancy arms you will need.

Chris
 
hey chris!

merci villmaal! irgendwänn chumi das mal zu dir abä go testä! ;-)
Thomas
 

Back
Top Bottom