Attaching BC Inflator hose to Stage 1

[avengerki]

Most orings are designed for use without lube. In a static situation lube should not be needed. Most often a light coating of lube is used when the oring is needing to be placed in a tight fitting area lessening the chance of stretching the oring.
In places where lubing the oring is needed the manual will tell you.
Remember lube can be used to help things move smoothly but it also is a dirt magnet. Using the incorrect lube for a specific oring material can also cause premature oring failure through chemical interactions.

Personally if lube is not called for I do not use it. The use of lube when direct is often to help prevent damage to the oring in frequent friction case like the oring on dive camera orings where it is being opened and closed frequently.

 

[Max Speed]

If you have reasonable finger strength you might not even need a wrench to get to 40 in/lbs. That's 3 ft/lbs folks. Think of it as screwdriver tight.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Most new hoses come with o rings that have a very light coating of lube on from the mfg process. No need to add more.

 

[Howie411]

Thanks all, I will give it a try today.

 

[elan]

OH.. LOL I'm NOT a detail guy.... Your spelling isn't great either... I can't read and you can't write..

Haha but we understood each other

 

[spectrum]

The point to lubricating the ring is so it does not bind, squirm, stretch, deform or tear as the parts rotate into final position. I consider it a nice to do thing when it's convenient. if I were out in the field changing a hose I probably would not bother. In a lot of cases there is residual lube on one or more of the parts involved. Lubrication is probably protection against the perfect storm of dry tacky components.

The lubrication mentioned is just enough to make the o-ring shiny. We're not talking about buttering anything up. Where it's slight and embedded in the closed joint contaminant retention is not a concern.

I need to go, I have a HP hose to replace!

Pete

 

[divad]

.
screw it in BY HAND until it stops, The reason you do it by hand is to ensure you are in straight and nothing is binding, if you need the wrench before the last turn, something is wrong. .

This is the most important point, for you, made in this post.
If you **** this up, the other points become moot.


Try holding the 1st stage with the LP opening facing down, then, with the fingertips of you other hand, screw the hose in. There should be NO resistance.

 

[redacted]

Another guide is after you screw it in tight by hand (finger tight) it is not more than a 1/4 turn with the wrench with a new o-ring. A used o-ring is usually a bit flattened and will require even less turn for proper torque. You are looking to get it just tight enough for the o-ring to seal and so you can not loosen it by hand.

But why are you changing the hose? What is wrong with the hose you currently have on your reg? If there is nothing wrong with it, I suggest putting the new hose in your spares stash until you need it. Hoses usually have a very long life.

 

[Howie411]

Another guide is after you screw it in tight by hand (finger tight) it is not more than a 1/4 turn with the wrench with a new o-ring. A used o-ring is usually a bit flattened and will require even less turn for proper torque. You are looking to get it just tight enough for the o-ring to seal and so you can not loosen it by hand.

But why are you changing the hose? What is wrong with the hose you currently have on your reg? If there is nothing wrong with it, I suggest putting the new hose in your spares stash until you need it. Hoses usually have a very long life.

Thanks I ended up getting it on, that was relatively easy. As for why not use the old one, like I mentioned in the original post, this one is braided/flexible cord compared to the normal rubber ones. Also its a bit shorter to go well with the AL Zuma.