Beginning regulator service

[randy88k5]

I took a regulator technician class a few months ago, and I am interested in servicing my own gear. I have all basic hand tools, vises, etc... but I am missing any SCUBA specific tools. I need to accumulate some. After going through my ScubaTools catalog, I made a list of what I think I will need.

Here is what I have:

Sherwood Magnum 1st with Sherwood Magnum Blizzard primary 2nd and Sherwood Magnum backup 2nd
Apeks DST 1st with ATX50 primary 2nd and AT20 backup 2nd.

I think I will need:

Inline adjusting tool (20-500-200)
Spanner set (20-410-200)
Socket set (20-[155-158]-500)
Apeks cover socket (20-240-200)
Apeks first stage socket and extension (20-242-500)
Christo-lube
Shape-able brass pics

I will probably build my own IP and flow aparatus

I will use a tank for the pressure source

Do you recommend anything else? Are any of those tools not necessary? Thanks.

-Randy

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Not 100% necessary, an others don't find much use for it, but I like the 1st stage holder. I can often get away without using a vice if I use the holder.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

I have no knowledge on how to work on Sherwood regs. I own and perform DIY service on my Apeks regs.

You don't really need the Apeks cover key or the inline adjusting tool. Use a rubber/latex glove to help unscrew the second stage faceplate cover for servicing and then don't screw it down so tightly upon reassembly. The inline adjusting tool can help with tuning the cracking pressure on second stages more quickly, but it's not necessary.

The Hook Spanner Set (actually it's a pin spanner set) is made of an aluminum alloy. I'd recommend buying the appropriately sized pin spanner wrenches from BloomerTool.com. I bought two of the 40-42mm DIN 1810 Form B pin spanner wrenches for my Apeks first stages. They're made of forged steel. It's good to have two of them in case you need to separate the environmental end cap from the diaphragm clamp.

I'd recommend getting a properly calibrated torque wrench.

 

[Mr Carcharodon]

The inline tool is nice, but not necessary. You just depressurize the reg and take the LP hose off to tweak the orifice position. It usually takes about 3 tries and less than 10 minutes.

I did get a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight which is handy. You'll need white vinegar and detergent (simple green) to go with it.

Really I cannot think of a lot of special tools that are really needed. I have a hook spanner, a special socket to take the yoke nut off, and some o-ring picks. Everything else were fairly standard tools.

 

[herman]

I pretty much agree with the rest. The vise does concern be a little, you never put a reg directly into a vise. I know some don't like them but I use 3/8x24 (aka. 3/8 SAE fine thread) bolts and nuts as holders for the regs and those are clamped in the vise. Some worry about steel in brass but properly done I don't see a problem. I install them finger tight, back off a little and snug up a jam nut on the outside of the reg, works fine for me. You could always get a brass rod and a die to make your own cheaper than the tool. In any case you do need some way of holding the first stage when dealing with over tightened or corroded on yoke nuts.
Other items to consider are an ultrasonic cleaner ($50ish at Harbor Freight), a lighted magnifier and some jewelers loops. When looking for the cause of a PITA creep, getting a good close-up look is helpful. I don't like just "fixing" the problem, I want to know what was causing it, one of the main differences in a real tech and a parts swapper IMO.

Unless you are doing pure O2 the Christolube is not necessary....silicone was used for years and it does a great job at a fraction of the cost. Other than being trendy and following the crowd, there is usually no need to spend the extra.

 

[Zung]

+1 for the ultrasonic; prices are going steadily down.

And the inline adjuster from Scubatools is REALLY nice; I finally decided it's worth the risk of getting my butts kicked by the gurus around here and got me one and like it a lot.

A flowmeter is probably overkill.

 

[Afishianado]

I agree that a flowmeter is probably overkill. I would though get a magnehelic for checking cracking pressure. Where you get it is not important. I do like the Scubatools adapter and it is cheap enough.

 

[randy88k5]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try disassembly and assembly without the cover key and adjusting tool and see how it works.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

@randy88k5: Do you already have an i.p. gauge?

I use an inexpensive one that I ordered from either ScubaToys or Dive Gear Express (can't remember which one). Although having a large gauge face is preferable to the one this one has, I'm not too particular about the exact i.p. on my regs. Obviously, it should be good enough to set the i.p. within the normal range specified by the manufacturer, monitor i.p. "recovery," and detect i.p. creep.

 

[randy88k5]

I have a few pressure gauges lying around, but I will probably buy a new one for accuracy purposes. Thanks for the suggestions. I might be able to get Dwyer gauges at a discount through my current job. I'll investigate that too.