Big Trip Indonesia Part 1- Palau Weh & Bali

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Kevster

Contributor
Messages
437
Reaction score
49
Location
Perth, Australia
# of dives
500 - 999
Big Trip Indonesia- Part 1- Palau Weh & Bali Jul/Aug 09
Part of a 65 day adventure diving Indonesia.

Palau Weh
Flights KL-Medan (To get visa on arrival)-Banda Aceh. I had a pleasant experience using Air Asia. They let me check in 25 mins before the flight departure. I thought I was going to miss my flight as the low cost terminal is a pain to transfer from the main terminal. After arriving in Banda it was a 30 min taxi ride to the harbour to catch the slow ferry (2 hours) to Palau Weh. Once on the island it was another 30 mins ride to Gapang beach, where Lumba Lumba dive shop is located.

Gapang beach was really nice, a great place to relax.
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It is very quite. There are only a handful of local cafes that serve basic but nice local dishes. I imagine this was what many places in Thailand & perhaps Bali& Lombok were like in the 60s & 70s. I stayed in the Lumba Lumba bungalows. They were nice & fantastic value at 25 Euros. Large clean rooms with fan & free Wifi. The weather was great, sunny blue skies, only 1 day of rain.

Diving
All of the sites were less than 30 mins from the beach. Max 12 divers on the boat with 3 or 4 guides. The boat was not the best; it was a bit difficult gearing up when it was busy.
I did 15 dives in 10 days. Generally the diving was good, but viss was average 10-15m. There was also current at most of the sites. My favourite sites were Pantee Peunateung & R.Utara. Highlights included lots of large gorgonian fans, lots of Morays (the most I have seen), 3 Napoleon, a few black tips, the occasional turtle, white tip & sea snake. I also did the house reef pier dive a few times on my own. Generally this was a shallow (3-8m) muck dive with lots of interesting stuff. Lots of butterfly fish under the pier, stonefish, scorpion fish, lion fish & a couple of ghost pipefish.
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Summary
PW is a great place to relax & dive for a week. It was very good value. Around 500 Euros for 10 days & 15 dives. What I really like about the place was there was an equal amount of locals & foreigners enjoying the beach. My only regret was not visiting Lake Toba while I was in Medan., which is perhaps a good reason to return one day.
Tips-Take some DVDs if you take your laptop or a good book. I was told that there are Mantas here in Feb. There are two dive operators on Gapang beach. Lumba Lumba was busy every day I was there. The other dive Op had little or no divers. I suggest checking out the other Op if you are travelling there & have not pre-booked anything as I would imagine you would get very good service.

Next stop was KL for 3 days to apply for a 60 day visa for Indonesia. The visa took 1 day to get. Required documentation;. Visa form, onward flight tickets & copy of flight tickets, copy or passport & copy of entry stamp into Malaysia. Cost 170 MRY. I stayed in the Istana hotel that was ok, good location.
 
Bali

Arrived in Bali & stayed in Kuta for a couple of nights. I stayed in the Febris hotel. While in Kuta I used travel agent KCB tours to book all my domestic flights for my trips to Alor/Palu/Lombok/Ambon.
Tulamben
I started with 2 Nights at Scuba Seraya resort. This is one of the more expensive places to stay at Tulamben at $85 a night. It is not as nice as the Tauch terminal that is located nearby & is about the same price. I stayed here basically for the muck diving in front of the resort. I done 4 house reef dives ($25/dive) & 2 Liberty wreck dives ($35/dive). The house reef dives were good, lots of small stuff to see. Highlights were lots of ghost pipefish, lots of different shrimp, an orange seahorse & a few nudis. The guides were excellent & good fun. I always had my own guide. Unfortunately they said that a lot of the critters had disappeared in the last couple of years. I thought 4 dives here was enough to see most of the critters.
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The wreck dives were made from a small boat that took about 10 mins from the resort. The liberty wreck is GREAT.. This is my 3rd time diving the wreck & it just keeps getting better. The viss was great approx 25-30 m, huge school of Jacks were at the stern (or is it the bow?) in the morning. These were a real highlight.
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There is also a lot of growth on the wreck. Another bonus was the pigmy sea horse at approx 30 m near the bow Also saw a huge barracuda & bumper head parrot fish. I must say that the Liberty is one of my favourite dives, definitely in my top 10 list. Just make sure you get in the water by 8am, lots of day trippers generally arrive at 8.30-9.00.
Overall I had a great time, the Tulamben area is my favourite place in Bali. 6 dives & 2 nights including transport cost around $440. I will definitely try to stay somewhere cheaper next time & stay longer. I will probably stay with Tulamben wreck divers next time.

Padang Bai
Next stop was Padang Bai. I stayed 3 nights at the Puri Rai hotel that was really great value at $30 a night. I would highly recommend this place. The hotel had a couple of nice pools. I had 2 days diving with Aqua marine.1 day at the Blue lagoon ($90 for 2 dives) & 1 day at Nusa Penida ($120 for 2 dives). The Blue lagoon dives were a nice surprise. First of all it was cold , approx 25 C( the guide said the day before it got as low as 17 C) & the dives were great. There were loads of Nudis (more than the muck diving at Seraya), some I had never seen before. Other highlights were octopus, cuttlefish, frog fish & a remora. At Nusa Penida we went to Crystal bay (along with the other 20 boats) but did not see any Mola mola. Water temp was probably too warm at 25 C. The second dive at NP was at Toyapakeh. I will never forget this dive. To say it was a “long” & fast drift dive does not describe a dive at this site. The current was strong and there were up & down current sections during the drift. I have dived in stronger current but I have never dived a site where the current was continuous & did not ease up. I was glad our entire group was experienced. We must have travelled at least 2 km in 40 mins. We headed into blue water to do our safety stop. Eventually we surfaced at what seemed to be the end of the island about a 1 km away from our boat. Luckily a passing boat was able to indicate our position to our dive boat. During the 2 dives at NP I did not take any photos. I have mixed feelings about diving Crystal bay. There are so many divers waiting to see a mola mola it would probably not be a good situation should 1 eventually show up. I can only imagine the chaos that would follow when 20 -30 divers, myself included, all descending on this poor fish to try to get a photo. Padang bai was nice & I enjoyed my stay there.. Aqua marine had nice boats & the guides were good. However if I was based in Padang Bai again I would try a different Op next time, probably Absolute scuba, who are actually based in PB. It was a bit painful waiting for the other divers to show up from Kuta & Candi Dasa. One day I was told to turn up at 8.15. No other guest arrived until 9.15 .While I was at Padang Bai I was told by a group of divers that Mola mola had been seen each morning for 4 days at Gili Meno in Lombok. Is Gili Meno the new CrystalBay? I would be really interested to know if any dives Ops in Bali are actually recording the frequency & number of sightings of this fish.

Sanur
Stayed at Lestari homestay for 2 nights. It was cheap & clean at $25 a night,then a couple of nights in a more expensive tourist class hotel relaxing.
I had pre-booked a day trip with BIDP to Nusa Penida that dived Manta point & 2 other dive sites. Had I not pre-booked this trip in Sanur I would have stayed an extra 3 days at Padang Bai as the Ops there were also diving Manta point. Although Sanur has more cafes, shops, bars I preferred staying at Padang Bai.
BIDP were great. We done Tugu in the north of Nusa Pendina. This was a nice gentle drift with good viss & nice reef with decent fish life. Next was a trip to Manta point. There were 3 or 4 large mantas during the dive.
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There were several other boats there., Some divers were trying to chase the mantas /swimming over the cleaning/feeding station. The final dive was crystal bay. No MM again!!!I give up !!!may try again next year!

Summary

All up I spent 13 days enjoying Bali & done 13 dives. Accom & diving cost approx $1450.Accom for my 4 nights in Kuta, Sanur & 2 nights in Seraya were relatively expensive.
Diving in Bali is simply fantastic. There is so much variety underwater & the time spent top side is equally enjoyable. .
The Liberty wreck is one of my favourite dive sites, definitely in my top 10 best dives. Definitely the best shore dive I have ever done.
.August is definitely a busy month in Bali. A lot of the accom is booked out.

(I have added some photos from PW & Bali to my personal galleries)

To be continued……

Next stop Alor & Palu (Central Sulawasi) followed by Lombok, Komodo & Ambon
 
Hi Kevster,
Thanks for the report
When you're in Lumba-lumba.
We were staying there from 19 - 25 July. Not sure if we're in the same boat ?
At that time no Wifi.


Yeah i stayed at LL.
i arrived 24th in the afternoon.
The 25th was my 1st dive day. 1st dive was at the canyon. Were you on the boat?

They fixed the wifi problem around the 27th.
I had no problem using the wifi from my bungalow.
 
Great report! Thanks.....I looked this year at staying at Seraya but instead decided on spending the time in Bangka after Lembeh. Next year I'll look at Mimpi and going to Padang bai for a few days. Thanks again!
 
Excellent report & wonderful photos! Looking forward to the next instalment.
 
Great report! Great pictures

Have fun! I just arrived home from a very similar trip! Look forward to following your dive adventure. Enjoy!
 

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