Blocking internal flash

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Turn the flash setting to the lowest setting possible that still fires the external strobe. Then cover the flash and cable on the housing with some black (gaffer) tape.
Some people use an IR passthrough filter between the flash and the FO cable as some cameras are fired by the IR from the strobe, not the visible light. Do a search here and you will see several suggestions for using exposed film as an alternative to the IR filter.
 
Like this:

DSCF0007.jpg


Exposed slide film over the flash. Inon strobes trigger on the IR signal.

ClearFilm1.jpg


N
 
BTW, if you have a camera that allows you to turn the strobe down to a low power setting like the 570 has then you should, then just use it to trigger your external strobe. This helps to prevent heat buildup and conserves batteries.

Just to be sure, the film MUST be exposed, developed slide film like Ekatachrome or similar.

Using this method there is no flash visible at all from the camera.

N
 
I have the S&S 8000G and am ordering an Inon S-2000. Don't think there's anyway to lower the flash output on that camera. However I went through my old photo junk drawer and found some slide transparency film from 1993 that I never used! I'll have it developed and then just tape that over my flash.
 
Forgive me for having a brain cloud, you want UNEXPOSED slide film and just send it through development--ask for it not to be mounted.

I guess I was momentarily confused because last time I just ran some through and then exposed a roll and ran that through as well to make a clear cover. Now I am just using clear Mylar for the clear piece.

Sorry about that, I have like a lifetime supply by cutting the tails off of all my old film, they used to stick it in the box with the slides ya know. In a 35mm camera when you shot a roll of 35mm slide film the tail of the film was never exposed so that is what I have been using, I realize now I was confusing you guys--the film must be unexposed and developed. Ask for the store to leave the film unmounted, uncut.

Hope that clears it up and sorry for the confusion.

BTW, if you get your own brain cloud and decide to make solar sunglasses, don't, the IR will fry your eyeballs.

This link also helps explain the idea:

http://www.deduiker.nl/pdf/ClearPhotoSystem2F373.pdf

I have been using cloth bandage tape instead of electrical tape and then use a Sharpie to paint it black.

N
 
Forgive me for having a brain cloud, you want UNEXPOSED slide film and just send it through development--ask for it not to be mounted.

I guess I was momentarily confused because last time I just ran some through and then exposed a roll and ran that through as well to make a clear cover. Now I am just using clear Mylar for the clear piece.

Sorry about that, I have like a lifetime supply by cutting the tails off of all my old film, they used to stick it in the box with the slides ya know. In a 35mm camera when you shot a roll of 35mm slide film the tail of the film was never exposed so that is what I have been using, I realize now I was confusing you guys--the film must be unexposed and developed. Ask for the store to leave the film unmounted, uncut.

Hope that clears it up and sorry for the confusion.

N

Glad you clarified that because I just took some old, exposed and developed slide film and covered the flash to see if it would work and the flash still came through. Now will go back and search through all my old slide film again to find tail end unexposed but developed film to see if that works!
 

Back
Top Bottom