Bonaire Trip Report March 30 - April 7th (sorry for the delay)

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rottielover

Contributor
Messages
383
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0
Location
St. Louis MO
# of dives
25 - 49
Hi all,

Sorry for the long delay, after returning from Bonaire, I had a pile of work on my desk that went from the desk to the roof!

I started out writing a long trip report in Word, planning on copy/pasting into a post here, but then I realized that I really couldn't say much about Bonaire that hasn't already been said before, so instead I'll just give my random thoughts about my trip, and hope that others get something out of it...

Random Thought 1 - Check for local holiday's when booking your trips

None of us in the group realized what a big holiday Good Friday is on Bonaire, until we're all standing around downtown, wondering why all the shops are pad-locked and the island is locked down tighter than a drum. Turns out that Good Friday is a major holiday on Bonaire, and downtown was a ghosttown... Thankfully, a couple in our group know a local, and our entire group went on guided island tour for our "no diving" day! It was a total blast!!!

Random Thought 2 - My deepest apologies to Susan Porter

Susan, I don't have your email address, but I know you read the boards, and I wanted to apologize. Susan stopped by Buddy one morning too meet my wife and I, and I'm not a morning person at all. I could hardly remember my own name when we met, and I'm sorry we didn't get a chance to chat a bit more.

Random Thought 3 - The Red-Eye

This was our first trip outside the USA, and I know many people have said that the red-eye flight is the way too go, however, I highly suggest you think though other flight options if you cannot sleep on a plane... I can't and we started our day the 30th at 7:00AM local (6:00 AM Bonaire) and we arrived in Bonaire the next day at 5:50 AM Bonaire local. I did not sleep a wink between. However, my wife had the only working pair of Bose noise headphones and one of those neck pillow's and she was able to get a few hours of sleep in. So next time, I'm either going to A) buy a pair of those headphones for me, or B) seriously consider other flights, even if they are a bit more hassle, as jet-lag really sucks you down.

Random Thoughts on diving

My wife and I ended up only doing 1 "real" shore dive, which was a specially arranged night dive at the salt pier. Thank you too the Buddy Dive staff, and our trip leaders for getting this worked out. We almost had a problem with the security lady who was waiting to meet our group at the pier, she wanted to see our ID's, and of course not one of the group had brought our passports along, those were safely locked away in the room safes. Fortunatly our local DM's were able to smooth things over, since we had all shown our passports to the buddy dive staff who had written down our passport numbers on the forms. We had such a large group (26) and so many of us wanted to do this dive ($25 each extra btw) that we split into 2 "teams". Team 1 did an afternoon dive and team 2 (of which I was a member) did a twilight/night dive. Many of our team, including me, felt that this was not a good dive, for various reasons. However, team 1's report was "spectacular dive"! So I have to conclude that if you want to do the salt pier, try and go for a day time dive there.

The rest of our diving were boat dives and shore dives from buddy's dock. Our package included 6 boat dives, so the Buddy Staff worked with our group leaders and arranged for our group to do 2 tank boat dives over 3 days (Sun. Tues. Wens.) The other days we spent doing dives at Buddy's Reef.

The Hooker - As a first timer, if your planning on going to the Hilma Hooker, I highly recommend you do this on a boat dive. Many of our group did this as a shore dive and have the "war wounds" to show from the entry. By all accounts the shore entry should not have been that bad, but on this day for some reason, there were many scrapes and brusies. My AOW group opted to do this from the boat, and It was a very nice boat dive. I'm also of the opinion that you'll get more bottom time doing this as a boat dive, since your not using your gas swiming out over the reef, but rather you get dropped nearly on top of the wreck. Our max depth on this dive was 95 feet (I even tried the "shove your gauges into the sand at the bow trick, trying to get my first 100 foot dive, but I could only ever get 95 on the computers). I am told that another group that went later in the day managed to get 99 feet on thier computers, maybe a tide thing? We saw a hudge tarpon and a giant barracuda hanging out around the wreck, I'm told that it's unusual to see such a large barracuda there.

Many of our group noticed that the sites around Bonaire seemed to be really good for fish, but not so great for corals, with the exception of buddy's reef. We also noticed that sites off Klien Bonaire seemed really good for corals, but not so great on fish. We never did figure out why, or if it was just "luck".

Other randomness -

Buddy's has a nice dive setup, and it's well thought out. If you dive Nitrox you won't have to worry about bringing an analyzer along, as Buddy's has 3 seperate places you can analyze your tanks (unless your REALLY worried about it). All the nitrox at buddies is 32% (most of our fills came out more around 31%), and seems to be the perfect mix for the diving around Bonaire. I would also suggest that if you plan on diving air to save money, you can purchase 1 tank ($9) for doing the hooker dive, as our profile on that dive would have sent us into deco on the air tables (probably would not have if your diving a computer), where as we were well withing the EAN32 table limites and will within our computers limits. I should note that our dive on the hooker had several "firsts" for my wife and I. It was our deepest dive to date, the first time we've ever dove a big wreck, and the first time we ever "busted" the air RDP tables on any dive. All of our prior dives, even on nitrox, were all well within the air RDP limits.

I did take a bit of offense one day... My wife picked up a nitrox tank with a 24% in it on one of our shore dives. So I told her to let one of the staff know and get another tank. (Name Withheld) told her, "use it, I don't want to waste a fill". Well that's when I got my hairs standing up on the back of my neck and injected myself into the conversation. I let him know that I paid a lot of money to get my butt too his resort, and I also paid even more for the unlimited Nitrox package. We wanted 32% and that's what we expected to get. I then told him, that if he wanted to use it, or have someone else use it that was fine, but that I wanted a tank with 32% in it. He took the tank back and let us get another. Now before I get 1000 flames for doing this, I just want to say that, yes I know it would not have hurt anything to do that dive with that mix, and perhapse I was out of line a little bit... But it was one of those things where I guess you had to be there to hear the tone in his voice, and I felt like, "damnit, I paid for this, I should get what I paid for". - flame away


Saftey Note about Buddy's - All the floors are smooth tile, rooms, walkways, steps, etc. We had several members of the group that slipped and fell (one hurting himself pretty good, but is OK). BE EXTRA EXTRA carefull when your walking around and the floors are wet. One day it sprinkled rain a little and several people fell.

Our room at Buddy's was pretty nice, and was clean and ready when we arrived. Most of the rest of our group were not so lucky. Most of the rooms were not ready (which was to be expected) but our group leaders were given the keys to thier room, told it was ready, and went up to find a filthy mess (I won't describe it here, I'd like people NOT to puke when reading my report). Additionally thier A/C was broken and the electrical panel in the room caught fire (which was quickly put out). By the 3rd day the Electrical panel was fixed and the A/C replaced, but the fresh coat of paint got on some shirts and pants when no-one told them they had repainted the room.

So I'm very thankful we didn't have all those problems, my trip report's tone would be much different if we had.

Food thoughts -

If your an Ice Tea drinker - Forgetaboutit... The only tea we could find on the island were canned and bottled tea's (which we both hate and refuse to drink) or hot tea's, which were good. So if you want Ice Tea, your going to have to find a way to make it yourself in the room. BTW, THANK GOD someone mentioned about taking powder gatoraid mix with you! I took one of those little containers that makes 5 Gal's and used nearly all of it while there. The water is very good right out of the tap.
 
Also, I'm not sure why people seem to think that the walk from buddy's to chat'n'browse / lovers ice cream / and the small store is such a hike. My wife and I walked there just about every day and it was maybe 2 blocks worth of a walk. Also there is a bank between buddies and the strip mall (where lover's / chat and the store are) that has a drive up ATM. We waited until there were no cars and used it as a walk up ATM :wink: I did not drive at all this trip, our room mates were much better at driving a stick and were nice enough to drive us around with them.

Gas -

If your going before a holiday weekend, I highly recommend you fill the gas tank tword the start of your trip. We got our truck with 3/4 of a tank of gas (and you have to return it with the same ammount). After driving around the island a couple of times durring the week (and our truck was the only one in our group that had both working A/C and radio at the same time, so it got the most use), we were near empty, and waited in a good 30 min line at Lisa Gas on our last day before the island tour to fill up. When we did, a local guy got really mad and started yelling at us that "you take too much". I tried to explain (nicely) that we had to return the truck with the same ammount of fuel or else we'd get charged out the wazzoo, but I don't think his english was too good. So while my room mates filled the tank, I stood "guard" behind the truck, putting on my best "don't F*&^ with me" face and stance. When we were done and all paid up, they started up the truck and I hopped in the back for a "quick getaway". I certianly didn't want to tick off any locals, but we really didn't see any other alternative. I certianly didn't want to pay buddy's outragous gas prices!

If I think of some more stuff I'll post back too this thread.

All in all, it was a fun trip. We did have fun, and it was nice.

As for going back, I think the wife and I will spend our next vacations visiting other islands and other parts of the world. The world is a big place, and there is lots too see. We'll consider going back to Bonaire sometime in the future though.
 
Sounds like we got a better deal for our trip even though CDH wasn't my idea of the best place to stay. Sorry to hear you had some issues with the dive op and had a few other glitches at the hotel with your group. We were told by the rental company to fill up and wash our truck on the Saturday, because the gas station and car wash were closed on Sunday, so we timed it accordingly. If you go to Bonaire again, try doing some more shore diving. The northern sites were lush with coral, sponges and tons of fish!
 
Which northern sites? We had one boat dive north of Andrea 1 but I think that's as far north as my wife and I went (I'll check my dive log when I get home). We had some others in the group that went up and did 1000 steps by boat and said that it wasn't that good, and the comments I heard about Oil Slick... well I dare not repeat them here in public ...
 
Reading another trip report reminded me that I should have said something about meals. Since our group memebers knew a local, that person set us up with group lunches and dinners at a few of the more "exotic" establishments, however, this was NOT a bad thing, two of the best meals I've ever eaten in my life were at two little local "hole in the wall" places, that most divers have never seen the inside of...

One was Rose Cafe (I think that's the name, eveyone in the group called it "Rosies"). We ate there for lunch on our tour day, and it was EXCELLENT. Since we had such a large group the chef made us a "family style" meal with fresh fish, and ribs. I have never eaten better dry-rub ribs in my entire life!
EDIT: Forgot to mention this is located in Rincon

We also had dinner one night at a local bar/resturant. I am hesitant to mention the name, our local guide said that ours was the first group she's ever taken in there, and I'm not sure if they would want the name mentioned on the internet or not (also why I'm not saying who our guide was, I don't know if she wants the publicity or not. I will, however, get a message too her and ask, and if all party's agree I'll let ya'll know the name of the place so that you can experiance the great food).

This place, defines "hole in the wall", but as all of us know, the BEST food is always to be found at local "hole in the wall" places. The menu was full of local fare, and I got the seafood mixed grill. OH my GOD, was this good food. Fish, shrimp, conch, veggies, mmm mmm mmm mmm.. I tell you what, if I ever win the lottery, I'll take my private plane to Bonaire just to eat at this place again! My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Anyway, if you happen to be driving around the island, looking for a place to eat, don't be scared of trying the local places, or the local fare!!!

We also ate dinner one night at the "really good Italian place". I never was able to find out the real name of the resturant, eveyone in the group just kept saying that phrase. I can tell you it was on the water front downtown, down the street from City Cafe. Also EXCELLENT food, I got a shrimp dish that had olive oil and balsamic vinagar, very tastey.



Oh ya, we also saw a couple of cruise ships, one of which was "FreeWinds" I was told that this is L. Ron Hubbards (spelling?) Scientologiest "boat". However, one day they were gone, and in it's place was an even bigger cruise ship. Then the next day one twice as big as that one showed up (I was told it was the largest cruise ship that opperates in the carribian). Needless to say, that day we all avoided downtown, someone said there were 20,000 people roaming around downtown that day!
 
If you were doing boat dives maybe you just had a crappy DM. We saw tons of stuff both at 1000 Steps and Oil Slick Leap (dove them twice we liked them so much). I even found a frogfish on my own. We also really liked Jeff Davis Memorial and Karpata, as well as Witches Hut.

The thing is, my buddy and I dive very slowly. We head out in one direction and look at everything, underneath overhangs, at every coral head. 35-40 minutes later, we turn around, ascend a bit and head back, still moving slowly. I'm a photographer, so for me zipping by everything is pretty useless. You might benefit from diving with a more experienced diver who's a good critter spotter; you'd be amazed at what you see. My buddy is a great critter-spotter and I'm getting to be as good as him now, so we see all the small stuff as well as the bigger things. On a couple of our trips when we did boat dives, the group hung around us because we found more or different creatures than the DM did.
 
Hey Rottielover-
Did you go with the folks from Great American? Sandy showed me some of her pictures from the trip and said it was a great trip. You didn't do any dives with Larry on the East side, did you?

Thanks for the post.
Tom
 
CUunderH2O - I was merely parrotting back what others in our group told me about those sites. I did not mean to imply that the wife and I didn't spot some cool stuff (but yes, most of the neat stuff we saw we found all on our own, save for the seahorses that were found by the DM's).

You see, my wife and I were on 1 boat for two of the diving days, and on a 2nd larger boat for 1 day of diving (this was the day we completed our AOW training dives).

Breif list of the "cool stuff": Seahorses, Frogfish, Scorpion Fish, Reef Lobster, Spotted Eagle Rays, Large Tarpon and barracuda's, spotted drum's, the list continues. I'm also a salt water reef aquarium owner, so I tend to linger around interesting coral heads, and on a couple dives I took my little point and shoot digital u/w cam.

So by no means was I trying to imply that the reef's are not impressive, simply that in our observations certain sites were better for spotting fish, while other sites had less fish and more interesting corals. I hope that clears up the confusion.

Tom - You have me pegged, I was in the group from Great American, in fact, Sandy was our OW instructor a couple years back, and we did several dives from the same boat.

Yes it was a great trip - maybe I wrote my prior posts in too negative a tone ? I certianly did not mean to imply that it was not a good and fun trip, but I guess people that are reading it are getting that impression...

Also, please keep in mind while reading my posts that the only place I have to compare Bonaire too is Maui Hawaii...

My wife and I did not do the "Wild Side", we don't have enough experiance for that kind of diving.
 
Rottielover, glad you had a good trip. What were some of the other things that you really enjoyed (besides the local food). Rose Inn is the place in Rincon...good food. Was the Italian place Cappricios? I love their panini!

I'm a big iced tea drinker, so I bring lipton tea bags and make my own when I'm on the island. You can get iced tea in some restaurants.
 
Cynde - It could have been, I never found out the name, we went there as a large group. It was however one of the few places you could get Iced Tea as I recall. I do know that when we went to City Cafe I ordered iced tea and got one of those soda can's of "lemonaid mix with a little tea in it" as I've heard them called.

Hmm, the things I really enjoyed besides food...

We really enjoyed the diving at Buddy's Reef, and all of the boat dives we did were also great. The only downer I had with the boat dives is that we did one where the current changed 180 degrees on us, durring the dive and picked up a bit, so we're heading out into the current, turn around and all of the sudden find ourselves fighting it to get back to the boat. I'm a hudge air hog and when I hit 500 psi we surfaced. Fortunatly we made it to within 25 yards of the boat, so it wasn't too awful of a surface swim back to the boat, but I really enjoy boat dives when I get to ascend right next too the boat :wink:

I also really enjoyed the surface intervals (non-diving time). We spent most of that hanging out with our group at various places (usually including a bar :wink: ) Being fairly newbish still, we didn't drink quite as much as I would have liked too (man that Amstel Bright is good stuff!).

Highlights (for me personally) were : Found our way back too the boat, all own our own as a buddy team for the first time on this trip. In our prior experiances the DM would keep us close to the boat and then just point the way to get back, this time we were allowed to "wander" father from the boat (staying within sight of the group of course).

Our deepest dive yet (95'), our first big wreck (Hilma Hooker), several other wrecks (the little boat just north of Buddy's I think it's called La Mancha?), and another wreck we did from the boat, a smallish wooden ship that was just outside another dive op tword the south of the island, I think it was close to "something special" if I remember right. Maybe somone know's the name of that wreck?

Finding the following critters without the assistance of a DM or others: Frogfish, Spotted Drum, Scorpion Fish, Flounder, Reef Lobster (big one too), and various little critters like coral banded shrimps. I'm especially proud of finding (and getting a picture of) a little family of sand sifting goby's, I've seen them for sale in fish stores before, they are white with little black spots. We found a whole mess of them, one "big" one about 3" long and the rest were fry, about 1" or less, all living under and around a concrete block used to tie up boats. All of the other divers around us zoomed on by to get too the reef drop off :) so I was pretty excited about that.

I did get PO'd at my camera again though... I managed to get a picture of a spotted eagle ray and a sharp tail eel, and guess what, both were messed up. I have a reefmaster 250, and ever since I got it I've been having a strange problem that on random shots you get this "quadrent" effect, where it makes the picture look like a jigsaw puzzle. I've sent the camera in once for them too look at, and they sent it back saying they couldn't reproduce the error... I'm still working with those in Photoshop, so I hope I'm skilled enough to fix them...

Oh ya, the best part of the trip - I never worried about work for 1 instant (for those that know me, you know what a feat that is!)
 
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