Differences between Apeks regs?

[MaizeNBlue88]

As I'm browsing for regs, it occurred to me: What's the difference between the different Apeks XTX regs? Glancing over their specs and reading info, it seems to me the only difference between the XTX200, XTX100, and XTX50 is the materials they're made out of. Would someone please explain any other differences to me. Is one better in cold water? Does one breathe easier? I'm just so confused as to what would warrant such a price difference.

 

[tbone1004]

second stages are all essentially identical, only difference is the chrome trim on the covers and what not, the aesthetic differences in the pictures are literally the only difference.

First stages are where the differences are, but all are equally well sealed using the same technology.

XTX50 can come with the following
DST-Turret, most commonly copied first stage on the market, Hog D1, Dive Rite RG3000, Hollis DC1, bunch of others. My preferred backgas style regulator. 5th port makes backmount singles and doubles hose routing easier, turret is an added perk for backmount, but really great for sidemount

DS4-similar to DST but no rotating turret. This is the one you usually see backmount doubles guys using, stupidly reliable regulator, but I prefer DST because it is more versatile for backgas. DS4's are great for stage bottles though.

Tek3-basically a DS4 but 3lp ports and 1hp port on one flat face instead of 2/1 on each side. Doubles only, work really well for that especially if the 5th port conversion can be put on the bottom of them, but very expensive and not worth the upgrade cost over the DS4 or DST's

XTX100
FST-only option, don't see these very often, good first stage, but no advantages over DS4

XTX200
FSR-similar design to the FST but a bit different, has a removable hard seat crown which is nice I guess but it can only get messed up with bad regulator repair. Since Apeks has lifetime warranty with the PFL program, the others would just be replaced in that incidence.


Look long and hard at your future dive endeavors, if you see sidemount or backmount doubles in your future at all, it is cheapest to buy two sets of XTX50 combo's and have the extra first stage available to you.

Dive Right in Scuba will have the best prices more than likely.
XTX50 - Dive Right in Scuba

Edit: due to response below I did forget you can still get ATX40/US4 series which are good for deco bottles and what not, and do not have the ability to reverse and they don't have the wide exhaust ports. The XTX series have a user changeable exhaust port which allows you to use "normal" T's and "wide" T's which do actually help for bubble trails

 

[Hickdive]

Mechanically, they are all basically identical with the same service kits used across the Apeks range apart from Flights.

Second stages are either ATX or XTX. ATX means the hose comes in from the right and cannot be swapped over. XTX means it can be swapped over to come in from the left. 50 and up series second stages are now exclusively XTX but you can still get 20 and 40 in ATX format.

20 series second stages have no external cracking effort adjuster, you must use a hex key and they have a plastic retaining nut for the cross case body.

40 series second stages have no external cracking effort adjuster, you must use a hex key and they have a metal "heat exchanger" retaining nut for the cross case body for improved resistance to freezing.

50 series second stages have an external cracking effort adjuster and they have a metal "heat exchanger" retaining nut for the cross case body for improved resistance to freezing.

100 and 200 series second stages have an external cracking effort adjuster, there is also a "micro adjuster" under the cap of the external cracking effort adjuster. They also have a metal "heat exchanger" retaining nut for the cross case body for improved resistance to freezing.

US series first stages are unsealed diaphragm types theoretically only suitable for warm water. However if you look at similar diaphragm offering from other manufacturers (e.g. S'pro Mk17, Mares M32) they tend not to make such a specification; diaphragms are less prone to freezing than pistons anyway. My suspicion is that there is a bit of marketing going on to create a "need" for the DS versions which are naturally more expensive. US4 has no swivel turret, UST does have a turret.

DS series first stages are sealed diaphragm types theoretically more suitable for cold water. DS4 has no swivel turret, DST does have a turret.

FSR, FST and Tek3 first stages are basically DS4 with a differing body to allow for different hose layouts. However, there are very slight differences in the balancing chamber design which prevent the use of the FSR/FST 5th port upgrade kit in DS4/Tek 3 first stages, which is a bit of a nuisance.

 

[MaizeNBlue88]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the info. I'm pretty new to diving and am trying to learn as much as possible.

 

[divad]

I like DS4s, or the HOG semi-clone, for doubles. I also like their compactness.

 

[claymore]

One note on the DS4, and the US4 if there is one, 1st stage have only 1 HP port. It may make a difference to some.

 

[divad]

One note on the DS4, and the US4 if there is one, 1st stage have only 1 HP port. It may make a difference to some.

Yes, its in the right place for back mounted doubles and singles.

---------- Post added March 13th, 2015 at 01:46 PM ----------

I also use these, and this is a great price right now @ Scubatoys.

Price: $349.95 DIN or Yoke? Select a DIN or Yoke?DIN Yoke

 

[ron_dodge]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the info. I'm pretty new to diving and am trying to learn as much as possible.

My wife and I were in the same place as you 3 years ago. We looked at Apeks, Aqua Lung, and Sherwood and it was pretty easy to settle on buying Apeks. But we just didn't know what reg sets we wanted. It came down to we thought the XTX50 was the best bang for the buck. We would have bought the 50's for each of us and been totally happy. We happened to find some upgraded models for a really good price in 2012 when Apeks made some minor adjustments for the 2013 models. However, I think you could go with the 50's and be happy for a very long time.

 

[Crass3000]

Don't take this as God's word as I've seen it written before but not that many places. The models that are covered with the special metal to make it look pretty nice (think it's tungsten) but can't be oxygen cleaned for O2>40%. If you are thinking about having your rigs 02 cleaned in the future (a lot of people don't think about that until years later), look for information on what I wrote above. Pretty sure there is something to it. AND I'm an Apeks addict so I'm not trying to steer you away. Simply passing on important info that I saw somewhere.

 

[Repair.Tech.Kyle]

Crass3000,


There are no problems diving any Apeks coated regulators above 40% as long as cleaning procedures are followed.