Disassembling SI-TECH drysuit exhaust valve

[Ostsee Taucher]

Does anyone here have experience on disassembling SI-TECH drysuit exhaust valve?

I tried to disassemble one for intensive cleaning of the inside, but I couldn't find how it opens.

 

[kwesler]

I do mine by reaching inside the arm, through the neck, with my left hand and grasping the ring, and turning it clockwise while holding the valve on the outside of the suit with my right hand...before you do it, make sure it is free of adhesive etc. Mine is mounted over a "washer" on the suit, so it is easy to take on and off.

Ken

 

[Uncle Pug]

The cover on the outside pops off and you can remove the guts as well as clean the sealing disc. You don't need to remove the valve from the suit to do this.

BTW... for a while to get extra fast dumping I removed the guts completely from my valve... leaving it unrestrained and unrestrainable. A holed suit taught me that that is not the best idea I've ever had.

I'll go take a picture and post it here.
Up-loading the picture took longer than disassembling the valve!

Any way, look at your valve and you will see that the top cover has a seam at about 1/4" and in that seam there is an indent for a small screw driver or similar tool to separate the cover from the valve. Once the cover is off and the valve body is rotated all the way counter clockwise the second piece can be remove and the third piece with the springy thingy (fourth piece still in place in the third piece in the photo) in the middle can be removed. At the bottom of the pile is the flapper valve and beyond that is the interior of your suit.

 

[Bob3]

After ya lose some parts or bust the critter by cranking on the cover instead of the base, I have new ones in stock for reasonable prices.

 

[Ostsee Taucher]

The cover on the outside pops off and you can remove the guts as well as clean the sealing disc. You don't need to remove the valve from the suit to do this.

BTW... for a while to get extra fast dumping I removed the guts completely from my valve... leaving it unrestrained and unrestrainable. A holed suit taught me that that is not the best idea I've ever had.

I'll go take a picture and post it here.
Up-loading the picture took longer than disassembling the valve!

Any way, look at your valve and you will see that the top cover has a seam at about 1/4" and in that seam there is an indent for a small screw driver or similar tool to separate the cover from the valve. Once the cover is off and the valve body is rotated all the way counter clockwise the second piece can be remove and the third piece with the springy thingy (fourth piece still in place in the third piece in the photo) in the middle can be removed. At the bottom of the pile is the flapper valve and beyond that is the interior of your suit.

Thanks a lot. I could successfully follow this. :chillin6:

 

[oxyhacker]

This is probably a good point to remind that the first step in attempting to cure just about any exhaust valve problem should be a warm water soak and good rinse. Exhaust valves are (paradoxically) delicate but long-lived things, and probably suffer far more damage from attempts to repair, than they ever do from use.

BTW, Bob, does Si Tech even sell internal parts for the late model valve?

After ya lose some parts or bust the critter by cranking on the cover instead of the base, I have new ones in stock for reasonable prices.

 

[Uncle Pug]

Ostsee I agree with Vance that soaking first is the best bet. I've never had a problem with my SiTech valves but then my suits get soaked periodically.

NOTE: the only reason to dis-assemble the valve is to get a foreign body out from under the edge of the rubber flapper at the bottom. DON'T try to take the flapper out and be very careful not to damage it. IF you can see something, a piece of kelp for example, then pull or wipe it out.

 

[Ostsee Taucher]

oxyhacker and Uncle Pug,

Thank you again for the priceless information.

Ostsee Taucher

 

[Bob3]

BTW, Bob, does Si Tech even sell internal parts for the late model valve?

Not that I've noticed (or needed); there has been only twice in about the past 5 years I've had a "head scratcher" that produced odd exhaust pressure variations & Stig has just sent new valves.

I've managed to plug mine solid with sand & mud while jetting & they behave fine after a good rinse job.
Now when I know ahead of time that I'll be getting into the crappy stuff the blanking plugs get used.