DIY Cave reel

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stevetto

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Location
UK
This is the second version of my DIY cave reel.

Main properties:

High strength hard anodized aluminium casting handle.
Stainless steel screws and lock.
Delrin reel.
~100 meter cave line
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really nice, thanks for sharing.
 
Cave and wreck reels has to be as simple as possible and one of the most important things is to avoid the rope to jam.
So clearance between parts has to be smaller or much bigger than the rope diameter.
It would be possible to close the gap with an additional part or modified rope guide or make a closed frame handle, but it increase the possibility of rope jamming and makes the design more complicated. The rope guide is relative thin, you can deform it. This can increase or decrease the gap......
With this opened type handle you can change the drum easily.
And other manufacturers use the same design.

The main difference between mine and others is the handle shape.
The handle's surface is domed and rounded everywhere. It is more ergonomic than a plate used by others.

handle.JPG


eJhnk
 
Have you thought about the possibility of fusing between metals. Ie Aluminium and steel? I know it is a real PITA with my underwater housing.
 
Have you thought about the possibility of fusing between metals. Ie Aluminium and steel? I know it is a real PITA with my underwater housing.

If you are talking about the possibility of galvanic corrosion it is always a risk between different metals in electrolyte. And salt water is a good electrolyte.
For safety reasons and to decrease the rate of galvanic corrosion Loctite screw glue was used between different parts. Fix the screw and behaves a little bit as an insulator.
 
Have you thought about the possibility of fusing between metals. Ie Aluminium and steel? I know it is a real PITA with my underwater housing.

And aluminium parts are hard anodized!!
It results a much thicker oxide layer than a simple anodizing process. It is dramatically increase the corrosion resistance.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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