Lizard Leg
Contributor
Background info: Aqualung Titan yoke first stage, HOG second stages, Pro Valve on a Worthington HP120 with Yoke insert installed. I've been using this setup for over 3 years like this.
Liveaboard trip this weekend. About a .75-1.0 knot surface current. I am a right below knee amputee and my dive prosthesis requires me "flipping a switch" once in the water to change the foot over from a walking position to a 70º plantar flexed diving position. With the current, I decided to sit on the edge of the entry and roll in - from 5 feet up since entering the water, flipping the foot and making my way back to retrieve the camera rig was a chore and a half with the current.
Liveaboard trip this weekend. About a .75-1.0 knot surface current. I am a right below knee amputee and my dive prosthesis requires me "flipping a switch" once in the water to change the foot over from a walking position to a 70º plantar flexed diving position. With the current, I decided to sit on the edge of the entry and roll in - from 5 feet up since entering the water, flipping the foot and making my way back to retrieve the camera rig was a chore and a half with the current.
First time worked great. No issues. Second time, night dive, 3-4's and current was still blowing. Hit the water slightly negative and nothing but water in my mouth. Purged, nothing but water again. Switched to my second and nothing but water. At the surface both breathed dry. Went back under, nothing but water.
Long story short, upon exiting the water the divemaster grabbed my tank valve at the top of the ladder to steady me and the yoke screw fell right out. The only thing any one can figure is that the DIN to yoke insert in the valve only allowed a few threads of the retaining screw to grab and the impact on the water either jarred it loose or stripped it, hence the water in the hoses.
Before having this first serviced or buying another first (DIN this time), I wanted to see if anyone else has had any experience with this.