First Stage Environmental Sealing

[Ouvea]

Hello All:

Had to service my deco reg last week as I discovered contamination within the first stage of my Atomic B2. Not sure if the water entered the first stage via the second stage or via the DIN inlet. I use the environmental sealing boot for all my regulators. While I had a Christolube tubes, I noticed that the price for these has jumped two folds from when I bought my current supply. I don't see a great difference in price between Tribolube-71 and Christolube MCG-111. Do we have any less costly alternatives than these two choices?

For a deco regulator, am I wasting $$ sealing the first stage given the higher probability of first stage internal contamination? I only caught this because I noticed a very small leak from the HP hose at the SPG (was not the spool). Corrosion was present on the HP hose (the section of the hose fitting that is captured inside the body of the first stage).

Thank you.
O.

 

[BoltSnap]

I discovered contamination within the first stage of my Atomic B2.

What kind of contamination? How did you notice it?

 

[Ouvea]

What kind of contamination? How did you notice it?

Salt water entered the first stage. Sorry should have been more precise.

 

[BoltSnap]

If it is salt water, I can't see how it can enter from the DIN inlet (unless I am not understanding something).


The sealing you are doing of the first stage has nothing to do with sealing the internals of the first stage. The environmental sealing has to do with sealing the balancing section of the first stage. Two different locations/issues. I would keep using the environmental seal for sure. You need to figure out how salt water entered the first stage to be able to figure out how to prevent it in the future, the environmental sealing has nothing to do with it.

 

[Ouvea]

@BoltSnap :

I understand the function of the environmental seal. It's a regulator that is used for a deco bottle. I pressurized the second stage but then close the tank valve. I'm guessing water entered through the 2nd stage due to the seat saving orifice. Yes, I periodically open/close the valve throughout the dive but I can't ensure that the regulator remains pressurized throughout the dive.

It's a question of cost/benefit if I had to service the regulator on a yearly basis compared to 3-4 years on my backgas regulators. Would you still seal the first stage or run it unsealed, if you "elected" to service the regulator on a yearly basis.

O.

 

[p_kos]

@BoltSnap :

I understand the function of the environmental seal. It's a regulator that is used for a deco bottle. I pressurized the second stage but then close the tank valve. I'm guessing water entered through the 2nd stage due to the seat saving orifice. Yes, I periodically open/close the valve throughout the dive but I can't ensure that the regulator remains pressurized throughout the dive.

It's a question of cost/benefit if I had to service the regulator on a yearly basis compared to 3-4 years on my backgas regulators. Would you still seal the first stage or run it unsealed, if you "elected" to service the regulator on a yearly basis.

O.

I no longer use an Atomic as a stage reg for this very reason. Of course, you can put another brand’s second stage on an Atomic 1st to solve the problem. I’m not sure if an Atomic 2nd stage can be modified to run without the seat saver mechanism but I’m sure someone here will know.

 

[Fibonacci]

It doesn't take much retained salt water to cause havoc with the internals...
An environmental seal using a very expensive niche lubricant as a water barrier is an inelegant engineering solution prone to voids or partial extrusion.
Seal integrity cannot be easily verified without partial disassembly of the reg, which in my view negates the advantages... and as identified salt water can travel back up the second stage hose via the seat saver (aka wave washer) and stay trapped if it becomes unpressurised underwater.

 

[rjack321]

Hello All:

Had to service my deco reg last week as I discovered contamination within the first stage of my Atomic B2. Not sure if the water entered the first stage via the second stage or via the DIN inlet. I use the environmental sealing boot for all my regulators. While I had a Christolube tubes, I noticed that the price for these has jumped two folds from when I bought my current supply. I don't see a great difference in price between Tribolube-71 and Christolube MCG-111. Do we have any less costly alternatives than these two choices?

For a deco regulator, am I wasting $$ sealing the first stage given the higher probability of first stage internal contamination? I only caught this because I noticed a very small leak from the HP hose at the SPG (was not the spool). Corrosion was present on the HP hose (the section of the hose fitting that is captured inside the body of the first stage).

Thank you.
O.

What are you trying to accomplish with the "filled with lube" sealing? The B2 works fine as a deco reg in unsealed mode.

 

[BoltSnap]

It's a question of cost/benefit if I had to service the regulator on a yearly basis compared to 3-4 years on my backgas regulators. Would you still seal the first stage or run it unsealed, if you "elected" to service the regulator on a yearly basis.

I service my sealed Atomic regs. every 3 - 5 years myself and I always have them sealed.

What about using an Inline Shut-Off gizmo?

Highland Deluxe Inline Shut-Off — XS Scuba - Everything For The Perfect Dive

Install between standard regulator hose and second stage. Slide machined Delrin collar to shut off gas flow. Commonly used with deco rigs, stage bottles & drysuit inflation to prevent critical gas loss. 9/16”-18 UNF male inlet to 9/16”-18 UNF female outlet threads. Low pressure use only - below

www.xsscuba.com

Highland Inline Shut-Off for Second Stage — XS Scuba - Everything For The Perfect Dive

Install between standard regulator hose and second stage. Slide machined Delrin collar to shut off gas flow. Commonly used with deco rigs, stage bottles & drysuit inflation. 9/16”-18 UNF male inlet to 9/16”-18 UNF female outlet threads. Low pressure use only - below 200 psi.

www.xsscuba.com

 

[Nemrod]

I have dived with Mk 5 type first stsges for years and never had a corrosion problem. However, the Mk 10 with the tiny ambient holes and grease I have had corrosion issues. The grease and rubber band trick works as long as saltwater is not allowed entrance by the cavity being filled with the grease. Once saltwater gets in there it tends to stay trapped and rinsing is made difficult by the very same rubber band and grease. The Mk 5 and the current Mk 25 with the large ambient holes and no grease, IMO, is superior, because it can be easily rinsed after a day of diving and does not retain saltwater.

Get rid of the seat saver type second stage for a pony/alternate system, no good can come from saltwater backing into the regulator system through the second stage. Leave the alternate system charged when in use. Choose a first stage that is easily rinsed or is enviro sealed diaphragm. Those are some options. Just because you have something available does not make that "something" the best choice for the task.