'em strobes, 'em strobes

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Ian T

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Being a total newbie when it comes to uw photography (depending mostly on luck...)..
been thinking about getting a wireless strobe for my dig cam...

Know as much about 'em as rosie the cow about orbital space flight...

errr...help?
 
Ian T:
Being a total newbie when it comes to uw photography (depending mostly on luck...)..
been thinking about getting a wireless strobe for my dig cam...

Know as much about 'em as rosie the cow about orbital space flight...

errr...help?

What is your budget?
 
RonFrank:
What is your budget?


is it more of a budget question or feature thing? i am also a total newbie and dont know squat about strobes. i know more will be better but will a $350 strobe take dramatically inferior pics over a $500 strobe? or would the $500 strobe just have more features?
 
Spoon:
is it more of a budget question or feature thing? i am also a total newbie and dont know squat about strobes. i know more will be better but will a $350 strobe take dramatically inferior pics over a $500 strobe? or would the $500 strobe just have more features?

Light is light!!!

A flash does ONE thing, fire light at something.

Factors to consider are TTL, recycle times, coverage, battery life, manual settings, slave options, and well a lot of other STUFF that I'm sure I have forgetten to remember!!

The basic job of a strobe is simple, but how it works with any given camera is the key.

IMO if you don't have TTL, then that level's the field. After that easy adjustments, and the ability to position the stobe are key. Another thing that maybe huge for many is a modeling light.

With a PnS camera, preflash sync will determine your options.
 
RonFrank:
Light is light!!!

A flash does ONE thing, fire light at something.

Factors to consider are TTL, recycle times, coverage, battery life, manual settings, slave options, and well a lot of other STUFF that I'm sure I have forgetten to remember!!

The basic job of a strobe is simple, but how it works with any given camera is the key.

IMO if you don't have TTL, then that level's the field. After that easy adjustments, and the ability to position the stobe are key. Another thing that maybe huge for many is a modeling light.

With a PnS camera, preflash sync will determine your options.

what do you suggest for my a95? i want something good enough without having to dent the bank account. something like a no brainer starter strobe but good enough that will last me through the years.
 
Being a total newbie when it comes to uw photography (depending mostly on luck...)..
been thinking about getting a wireless strobe for my dig cam...

Opinion.....

Before discussing strobes, I would first ask what camera do you have. I would want to know if the camera offered manual control of aperture, shutter, and ISO. If it didn't, I might end the strobe questioning right there and suggest they upgrade the camera first.

Auto cameras are calibrated to capture images in air with two feet firmly planted on the ground. This is quite different than shooting through water while attempting to hover in any current. An auto camera will most likely assume a low light situation when submerged, resulting in shutter speeds too slow for hand holding underwater along with wide open apertures that wash out ambient lit background exposures. There's also the chance of the camera arbitrarily choosing to increase the ISO if manual control of that function is unavailable. All of these "out of control" auto functions add an unknown variable to the external strobe~aperture exposure equation. That is why, imho, it is best to avoid building an underwater rig around this type of camera.


Second question is what type of housing. Is it clear or aluminum? Does it have a bulkhead for a sync cord or will the camera optically trigger the external strobe, sending commands via the onboard strobe either with or without a fiber optic cable.

How will the user control the strobe's intensity. Does the user wish to use some form of TTL, Auto, or manual control of the strobe's output.

TTL works well with macro compositions of average reflectance. It gets trickier when close focus wide angle is the preference or if a shiny barracuda is the focus of attention.

Auto controlled strobes require the user to match the aperture setting of the camera to the strobe (or not!). The auto strobe is equipped with a sensor in it's head. The sensor's job is to collect reflected light sent from the strobe that has bounced back off the target. The drawback to the system is that it generally requires the strobe to be aimed directly at the target, potentially increasing the possibility of capturing backscatter by illuminating the water column between the lens and the target, especially when the target is in the center of the composition.

Strobes that fire manually are equipped with a dial on the head or attached to a controller that has a dial on it. These dials are timers. They control the strobe's influence on the exposure by how long the strobe is allowed to fire.

I would then ask questions regarding the camera's flash menu. Does the camera have a preflash? Does the camera have a slave flash option? The answers to these questions will help narrow the field.

Finally I would ask price range.

For more information on strobes, visit the digitaldiver strobe database, also known as the Strobe Finder.

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

Data found in the database is from the manufacturers. The data is more relevant when you compare within vendors lines. OTOH, comparing the guide number from manufacturer "A" vs manufacturer "B" may not be as accurate due to different testing procedures.

There are also pop up windows filled with explanations of terms.

And finally the Strobe Finder includes manufacturers suggested retail prices. Street price will vary.

Hope this overview of strobes and the database helps. If you'd like more information about your camera, try dpreview.com, imaging-resource.com, or steves-digicams.com

regards,
b
 
Light is light!!!

Not necessarily.

Light emitted from strobes may vary in temperature. Underwater, this may play a role in the quality of the image captured.

The variation in strobe temperature is often discussed as being a warm or cool light. Warm light has more red in it. Cool light tends to be on the blue side of the spectrum. Tube design plays a role in temperature. Round tubes commonly emit a warmer, white light, possibly measuring +- 4700° K. Straight tube designs offer a cooler (actually hotter temperature wise) white light, measuring around +- 5700°K.

K stands for the Kelvin scale.

At close macro distances, the temperature of the light emitted by the strobe is not as important as it is at longer, say wide angle distances. Some photographers may say that a warmer light replaces more of the reds that are naturally lost at depth when light attempts to travel through the underwater medium. Certain photographers prefer the warmer light when shooting models underwater, stating that the warm light enhances certain skin tones.

There are even some strobes that offer the user the option to choose the color of white light (temperature) they prefer for the composition.

hth,
b
 
Actually light is light and a UW strobe is an UW strobe. First, it’s a waste of time talking about Guide Numbers for strobes at 50 or 75 feet when most, if not all, shooting distances UW is about 4 feet or less!

Now we are talking about the color temps.???? Both a waste of time in UW photography! Who cares if a round flash tube gives of a warmer light, because the xenon gas ionizes differently from a straight tube? On my round tube studio flash equipment, Speedotron sells coated tubes to warm up the colors.

The color differences in the UW strobes are so small your eye may not even see it. Strobes were design to have their color temps. to be as close to sunlight’s temp., as possible, this had started with film and rolled over to digital. If the color is not close to sunlight, then it is not a strobe, but a halogen bulb! The camera’s CCD or electronics itself is the main factor for the type of colors you will get. My Olympus 8080 puts out brilliant, saturated warm colors.

And for warmer or cooler lighting in our pictures, what do you think Photoshop or similar software is for?

The main problem I see is the lack of sound photographic skills. I am not here to impress anyone on my photographic skills; you guys can take it for what it’s worth.

But talking about color temps when most folks do not have the concept of manual exposure (bracketing), sharp focusing and composition??

I have read it over and over again about people buying expensive multifunction auto bells and whistle strobes, only to find out that shooting in manual mode was the way to go in the first place!

So let me think here I have a choice of a $200 or an $800 strobe both strobe do the same thing in manual, but the $800 strobe has an auto mode option that I may use .001% of the time. Sounds like a great $800 investment to me!

Or why the degrading image after “stacking” close up lens or add on wide angle lenses!

Dive Safe
 
Personally I would consider Ikelite or Inon, specifically DS-125 or Z220 (however Inon just recently discontinued it) if your budget would allow it. Both have strong enough output for most your needs, recycle very fast (not a big deal for PnS) and if you should decide to upgrade, you will most likely not need to upgrade the strobe as well. Since I bought the Ikelite, I went through 4 different camera systems from PnS to dSLR and I never had to change the strobe. Sure there are other more powerful and more expensive strobes (better strobe?) like Subtronic and Hartenberger out there but I certainly never felt the need to get those. I am not sure if Inon D2000 or Ikelite DS-50 will be adequate in the long run if you want to upgrade your system.
 
ssra30:
and if you should decide to upgrade, you will most likely not need to upgrade the strobe as well. I am not sure if Inon D2000 or Ikelite DS-50 will be adequate in the long run if you want to upgrade your system.

i want a strobe i can use now but one that will just be as good once i get my slrs in the future
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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