Equipment So Far

[Lenmonster]

I have been assembling my first gear config over the past few weeks. Here's what I have, and here are my issues.

BP/W-DSS SS with hog harness and 30 lb single wing

DiveRite Hurricane Reg with 1215 Octo

I put the primary on a 5 foot hose. At that length, it seems to wrap under my right arm, and then over my chest, around my neck once. Does this seem right? I know if I had done a 7 foot hose, I would need to tuck in the excess, but since right now I'm only diving singles and not doing caves, does this seem cool and correct?

I just put a cheap used pressure gauge on the thing ($30). I want to get a computer, but don't know if I can go AI because of cost at this point. For redundancy, I guess I have some choices. I figure I can do a single computer, and then maybe a dive watch, so if the computer fails I can see depth and time and at least check tables after the fact. I didn't want to spend much on analog gauges.

 

[nereas]

Uwatek bottom timers are a great back up. Not expensive, either.

Or another cheap depth gauge will do it for you also. Either way.

Note that if you are diving NDL, you really do not need redundancy.

It is in the case of deco diving and/or overhead-obscured that redundancy becomes critical.

It is the ancient cave divers of Florida who invented the motto of "two of everything." And this meant two watches, two depth gauges, two tanks, two regs, two masks, etc.

 

[hokie_diver]

For shallow recreational dives within NDL (the kind I do) I simply plan to abort the dive if my computer fails. I sometimes wear a watch, but it's mostly unnecessary.

I have thought about trying to pick up a Uwatec bottom timer, but for the the price combined with the fact that you have to throw it away when the battery dies, I think you'd be better off just buying a cheap computer with gauge mode for not much more cash.

 

[Skeeter1097]

grate start.

 

[TSandM]

It sounds like you are routing the 5' hose correctly. A 5' hose should suffice for any air-sharing situation you encounter in open water (although the 7' hose is a little more comfortable for swimming any distance).

If you are using an SPG, there's no particular reason to have an AI computer. I found that having my depth gauge and timer on my wrist was a whole lot better than having it on a console I had to haul up in front of my face to check, but I don't need to check my pressure as often as I like to check my depth and time. For some time, you are probably better off using a computer as a computer, rather than going to gauge mode -- at least until you've cultivated a pretty good ability to follow your profile and do depth averaging. I have used a Vytec (without transmitter) and a Mosquito and an Aladin Tec 2g, and they're all nice, but the Mosquito is a fairly inexpensive option for someone who is not going to utilize gauge mode. It's Nitrox capable.

I don't carry a redundant gauge. I cultivate reliable buddies.

 

[nereas]

For shallow recreational dives within NDL (the kind I do) I simply plan to abort the dive if my computer fails. I sometimes wear a watch, but it's mostly unnecessary.

I have thought about trying to pick up a Uwatec bottom timer, but for the the price combined with the fact that you have to throw it away when the battery dies, I think you'd be better off just buying a cheap computer with gauge mode for not much more cash.

As far as the bare minimum, either an SPG on your tank or a wristwatch, or preferably both, is the minimum. With these, a smart diver can anticipate almost everything else.

In olden times, before SPGs were invented, the J-valve sufficed. And for those who could not get a J-valve, then they would need to use their wristwatch to anticipate air consumption combined with estimated depth. Neither of these methods by modern standards is appropriate, however that does not change their feasibility. These methods still work in a pinch, if you lose a gauge during your dive and you do not have redundancy.

Depth gauges are nice, but you could also anticipate your depth based on markers on your anchor line, or else by a good marine contour map that you studied before the dive. Of course, simple depth gauges are quite inexpensive these days, and therefore a must-have. However if your depth gauge fails, then you are back to estimating your depth. Sometimes you can see the surface from where you are diving, and then it is rather easy. Other times you cannot, and then you simply need to follow the tiny bubbles back up until you can see the surface, and do your safety stop then.

Today when I dive I wear 2 computers, one of them helium compatible, and the other an ordinary nitrox computer in gauge mode. But it was not always so in history.