Expected lifespan of Canon DC28 housing

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drcolyn

Contributor
Messages
84
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5
Location
Langebaan South Africa
# of dives
100 - 199
When I bought my G10 about 18 months ago I decided to go for the Canon housing since an Ikelite was double the price (R3500 vs R7000) in South Africa.
I never had a leak even though I did not sand the infamous mould marks and only after 40 dives and 2400 pictures did I encounter a sticky shutter button at 15 meters.
I removed and serviced all the buttons and did a successful pressure test to 16 meters in freshwater but I have the following concern.
I noted that sand had eaten through the chrome on some of the brass shafts of the buttons. I religiously soak my gear in freshwater after each dive but I never used pressurized water to blast sand from the buttons so now I know why they recommend it on the Canon website.
What I would like to know from the owners of Ikelite and other more expensive aluminum housings are whether these housings offer a better protection (like a bouble seal) against debris entering the movable parts of the buttons and therefore provide a longer lifespan. I would also like to know if the shafts of the buttons are made of stainless steel or chromed brass.
Regards
David
 

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Don't know about Ike, but my Al housing has SS rods. One advantage of the more fancy housings is that you can get replacement parts for all the bits that might wear. Of course with access to a machine shop you can probably make some SS buttons for your Canon.
Bill
 
Thanks for sharing the information; I use my waterpic to clean the buttons once in a while and I also use drops of liquid silicon regularly . So far it's been over 24 months and no problems, used it almost every weekend averaging maybe 100 dives per year.
 
I have well over 300 dives with one. Have a spare O-ring, but have not used it.

However, as I do most of my dives fairly deep (usually around 30 meters, sometime deeper, rarely much shallower).. the button springs have gotten weak.

Not had any issue with the shafts, but would not use around sand.

At best now, I cannot go below 31 meters with the buttons being pushed in and the camera not working.

Love the camera for iso 80 images.. but it is now a shallow water camera.

I hate the Ikelite housing design (have the S90 in one)...the buttons have an openning that allows water to get in, and unless it soaks a long time, will leave salt deposits and you get sticky buttons....worst case for that I have.

My 10Bar are double o-ring.. not sure how sand would effect them....but they appear to be stainless.

Fuji cases do not have the same issues that the canon case does...much better made.

The oly case is also well made.
 
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My FIX has stainless control glands it appears to me. The Canon units do seem to have some chrome plated shafts. The Ikelite, FIX, Recsea can be overhauled, the Canon is not as likely to be overhauled. I also removed my control glands on my Canon wet cases and replaced the springs to help assist them. I also replaced some O-rings with others sourced locally on one of them.

N
 
I have an Ike housing for my G11. I have done about 40 dives with it. So far, it has held up fine. I rinse it in fresh water after diving, work the buttons and dry it. I also lube the O ring. I don't put it on the substrate so it has only incidental contact with things.
 
Hi All
Thanks for the replies on the build quality of the other housings. It is a pity G10's live so long as I would have gladly bought the old ali housing from someone.
I guess for the price difference between Canon and other ali housings I must just buy a spare one and swap parts - thanks for adding the spare o-ring info Pufferfish - that was my next question.
I would just like to add that I never placed the camera on the sand (I tuned it to have slight positive buoyancy) but the ingress of sand is totally due to sand in the water - on the SA west coast 2 meter viz is average and 5 is phenominal.
As far as other housings go - I also have a Sony P73 with Sony housing which is a lot more solid in build quality but suffered the same sand in the buttons problem - I just never knew how to service it before Matts article and now I know why Canon recommend blasting the buttons with a hose after diving.
Prandyulo - I have seen that black silicon bottle in another post. Is there a specific brand or grade of silicon lube I must look for? (always a problem to find this type of stuff in Africa)
I have silicon spray in an aerosol can - dont know if it will be as good as removing and greasing the o-rings with silicon grease though. Speaking of grease - I have used a good deal of the grease in the no name tube that I got with the Canon housing and I know not all silicon greases are made equal according to the manuals - is there a general silicon grease that is safe to use?
 
Do not use spray silicone from an aerosol can on plastic housings.

Use 100% pure food grade liquid silicone in a pump bottle, use a toothpick to put a drop into each gland.

BTW, using silicone lube on a silicone O ring can cause it to swell, silicone for Buna N, manufacture suggested lubricant for the silicone types, speaking mostly about the rear door O ring here.

N
 
drcolyn, I was able to buy a bottle of Trident liquid silicon. I put that in a small squeeze bottle with tiny nozzle just right sized to fill the gab between the shutter button and the plastic bushing around it. I didn't mention that I have a spare Canon housing as well after I cracked the latch lock one time after dropping it. I just glued and tied fishing line around the crack and so far it still holds. I do have an S95 on Ike housing. I like the buttons on the Canon better. I don't plan to go the solid alum housings unless I go DSLR which is not in my plans. I flooded my G10 twice (not the housing's fault; mine actually) so the cost of my G10 has tripled. I shudder to think about that happening on a DSLR.
 
Thanks for that info Nemrod. I assume the black o rings on the buttons are Buna N and the yellow back door one is Silicon?
Wow prandyulo - you do some serious stress testing for Canon :D – good to hear that a flood is not the end of the world – I have a pre WW2 pressure cooker in which I pressure test my rig to 16meter in freshwater just before diving.
I saw some DC28 housings on amazon for under $200 – is that a fair price?
I once had a problem with a BC hose quick coupler that tend to rust and jam so I got a tip from the SA Special Forces guys to spray silicon on it (they have to undress quickly when the bullets fly). This seemed like a good idea until I accidently stuck that hose coupler in dry sand once and I was amazed at how much sand stuck to the oily surface.
West coast sand is mostly eroded granite and very fine so it suspends easily in water – therefore my sand in the button problem.
When I recently serviced my Canon housing I was worried that any excess grease will attract more sand so I tried to limit the grease area between the black o ring and the yellow washer on which the spring is seated.
Any experience that the liquid silicon is less sticky?
Regards
 

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