FFM fogging, need antifog coating

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laguna230diver

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Location
myrtle beach sc
# of dives
500 - 999
After i decided not to sell my scubapro FFM i decided to sea buff it... BAD MOVE

the antifog factory coating is removed now and im having a mask fogging problem... any known fixes?

500psi wasn't working.. any advice? anyone know if i can get the lens recoated?
thanks
 
:rofl3:


No, really, I had a friend that was on the US Olympic luge team and they use to wash their face shields with a certain shampoo. You might try a light coat of baby shampoo before each dive.

I use SeaGold in my scuba mask and it usually lasts for a full day of diving.
 
thanks mud! Im trying my best not to be embarassed of such a stupid move... its not working yet lol

i've heard good things about seagold.. do you ever have any fogging with your helmet?
 
Commercial masks and helmets have an air train (pipe with holes in it) that shoots air over the face plate when the diver opens the free-flow valve on the side of the mask/helmet. It serves two purposes 1) it de-fogs the face plate, and 2) it vents the hat to remove any excess CO2 build up. So there is no need to de-fog the face plate on a diving helmet.

If the face plate does start to fog up, it is a good sign that CO2 is building up inside the hat and that the diver needs to vent. :shocked2:
 
i was just clearing the lens by looking down and moving around a small amount of water... after about an hour then lens was getting clearer on its own, is this possibly a temperature issue? Or could it be a CO2 issue as the bulk of my energy expendature is in suiting up and the first parts of my job? any help would be great! I have a pretty nice mask that could be a LOT better.

thanks!
 
Just looking at the Scubapro web site and can not tell how the inside of the mask is configured. It states that there is a separate for nose and mouth, but I can not tell if it is like the oral nasal on a commercial mask. Most commercial masks and hats (if they have a demand regulator) have a cup that your mouth and nose fit in to reduce the area that you exhale into. This reduces the CO2 build up and dead space in the mask/hat.

Your fog problem is most likely the difference in temperature between the water and the inside of the mask. That is the same reason a scuba mask fogs up, plus the moisture from your breth as you blow out your nose to equalize the mask.

I dive a Kerby Morgan M48 Supermask and it uses an internal mouth peice like a normal scuba regulator to reduce the dead space that the dive exhales into. I get some fogging with that mask if I don't do a good job of applying de-fog before the dive and I end up breaking the seal and letting water in to swish like you said you have been.
 
i used to dive this mask with a mares abyss reg that had a long stem for the mouthpiece to attach too. right now with my apeks regs, the thickness of the FFM is too large for me to get a mouthpiece on the reg inside the mask. As for the "seperate pockets" i think the only thing it successfully does is keep any leaked water off of my skin. The inside is not sufficiently separated. Thanks for the advice!

I guess for now I'll try more de-fogs and if that doesn't work... well ill get to that when it comes
 
There is no oral nasal on this mask like a commercial band mask or hat has. It is like a blinged out model of the old Cressi mask. The SP is very nice, but limited because of the lack of oral nasal and CO2 buildup can be a concern during dives.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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