Fibre optic ring flash.
- Thread starter Sculpin
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Sculpin:
It was on Wetpixel.com or Diitaldiver.net... probably wet pixel. I'll hunt around for it.
Some mad scientist developed a ring flash for his underwater cam using fiber optic cables and clear plastic... it was pretty cool.
K
ReyeR
Guest
ReyeR
Guest
I'm already using FO cables to sync and slave my second Ike DS-125 to mimick the primary DS-125. What is it you wanted to know?Sculpin:
OP
Want to try and get a set up that reliably sets off the ike 300 no matter where I position it. This is a monster of a strobe and may have to hand hold it well away from the housing (PT 020).ReyeR:
Not sure if the camera flash in slave mode will do this reliably, just a alternative that I might try.
I have access to some FO and wondered how salt water will affect FO, do you have to seal the ends somehow?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Sculpin.
ReyeR
Guest
Ok. I'm not familiar with the Ike 300:
- how does it pickup the light to set it off as a slave? Does it have an 'eye' or sensor in the strobe itself or does it have to be connected to a sensor
- does it have any manual power settings? Like full, half, quarter etc?
The FO cable I use is polymer type - the one used for lighting applications and not the data/glass type. See: http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm (US) or http://www.opticfibrelighting.com.au/pages/prodfibr.htm (Australia)
I use the multi-stranded ones because they are more flexible. You can use the PVC sheath it comes in. I use heat-shrink piping to enclose the strands - that way I can select the number of strands I want - just cut and use. The fibre is plastic so salt water will not affect it - just rinse in fresh water. If you want to prevent water moving up and inside the jacket and the strands from moving around you could use the silicon glue - the one used in aquariums.
I use Slave, level 1 with my C5050 and it triggers the strobe very relaibly.
- how does it pickup the light to set it off as a slave? Does it have an 'eye' or sensor in the strobe itself or does it have to be connected to a sensor
- does it have any manual power settings? Like full, half, quarter etc?
The FO cable I use is polymer type - the one used for lighting applications and not the data/glass type. See: http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm (US) or http://www.opticfibrelighting.com.au/pages/prodfibr.htm (Australia)
I use the multi-stranded ones because they are more flexible. You can use the PVC sheath it comes in. I use heat-shrink piping to enclose the strands - that way I can select the number of strands I want - just cut and use. The fibre is plastic so salt water will not affect it - just rinse in fresh water. If you want to prevent water moving up and inside the jacket and the strands from moving around you could use the silicon glue - the one used in aquariums.
I use Slave, level 1 with my C5050 and it triggers the strobe very relaibly.
OP
Hi ReyeR,ReyeR:
There is a light sensor on the strobe to set it off, nothing external needed, probably will set it off without the FO.
The strobe has full 1/2 and 1/4 settings, guide # 44 U/W overkill probably but I already have it.
Thought about the Fo as a back up just in case it doesn't.
Don't know the type I can get hold of think it's the lighting type.
Suspected it would be ok in water nothing to corrode.
I was thinking some sort of reflector on each end, one to catch the light the other to recieve it.
Don't have the housing yet get it a week today. and want to get wet asasp, probably without a strobe just to see how it works.
Thanks for the input.
Sculpin.
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