First Pics with S90

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I don't know if you were asking me in particular, but anyway I used the flash at full power. Of course I played around with the white balance and exposure in post processing. The pictures don't look like that out of the camera!

I think you did a very nice job with them...and you have far more talent than you let on...

Nice to see clear water... not something I get to dive in very much...

PS Raw is a wonderful thing.
 
and also what software are you using to post process?

Markster, the free canon software that comes with the camera works very well, and is easy to learn. If you shoot in raw, you have a great deal more control of the final image.

Not sure what he used, but software like lightroom (great software, by the way) takes a lot more to learn to use correctly. The canon software is tuned to their camera's and saves a huge learning curve.

Your question about F stop is somewhat interesting. P&S's don't have a very big F stop range. The S90 has at least a few, if you are using it at the 28mm equv. setting (F2 to F8), but if you zoom out, at maximimum zoom (which is not that big), the range is 4.9 to 8 (or just over one stop). My two slr's, by comparison, att the equiv focal length, go from around F5 to F22/F32 (depending on the lens).

Unless shooting only wide angle (which I don't), using aperture priority is not that useful.
 
Could you tell me what f-stop you shot these pictures at

Puffer Fish pretty much covered that topic. I shot most of my pics at f5.6, but on some I opened it to f4. I honestly don't remember but if there's a couple pics in particular I could check the exif for you.

User Nemrod has posted a wealth of information on shooting underwater. Look up his posts or drop by this wonderful website : Underwater Photography Guide

and also what software are you using to post process?

Puffer Fish again covered that topic. Like I mentioned, I shot everything in RAW and then I used Lightroom 3 for white balance adjustments. Then if there were any other adjustments needed I exported the RAW file in Photoshop CS3 as a 16-bit TIFF and did my thing.

Thanks for your comments Puffer Fish! I do have a Canon dSLR on land therefore the adaptation period was rather short :)
 
Thanks for your comments Puffer Fish! I do have a Canon dSLR on land therefore the adaptation period was rather short :)

You are welcome, was pretty obvious you have a very good grasp of how a digital camera works...
 
Those are terrific! If this is new and bad, you are going to be Awesome! Oh, and listen to Puffer. He is amazing....

Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. :)
You're right, I think Puffer Fish is in another league... :D
 
Very nice pictures Didje! I also added you as a contact to my flickr, thought I don't actually have an underwater housing so all my pics are topside.

@Madakuska cranking up the ISO to improve lightening has an adverse affect most often by increasing picture noise.
Best bet if you can would be to decrease shutter speed to let in more light that way (with a stationary target and if you have steady hands, 1/30 is about the lowest possible for hand held on stationary target) or decrease the f-stop this lets in more light and also blurs the background (decreases depth-of-focus).
Or you can also try and light up your subject with something like a flashlight or if the camera has it a flash. I'm speaking in general as I don't use an S90, so I don't know the individual functions of that camera.

I always was trained that your shutter speed should never EVER be slower than your focal distance i.e. 200mm 1/200 Sec or greater. Clearly there are exceptions.. but have found that a good way to be able to "prevent stable items from blurring". Most of my stuff is in studio where we get to shoot f9-22/Sync speed/ISO100... so that rule can only go so far underwater LOL.
 
I just want people to know that the Underwater Photography site that is linked above and in my sig line belongs to and was developed and maintained and largely written by Scott and that I am simply a mod there for what good I might do as are a few other people far more capable than myself with a camera. Credit where credit due.

Nem
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom