G250 Graphite vs HOG Adjustable 2nd

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Slamfire

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Location
Langley, British Columbia, Canada
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I'm a Fish!
I got my beloved G250 Graphites by stealing them from my dad. I only have 2 and I'm not sure that my dad has anymore left for me to steal. After many, many dives where I've switched from a nice finely tuned G250 to non-adjustable Sherwood Bruts, I started thinking it might be time for me to get better performing 2nds for my stages. I have a bunch of Sherwood non-adjustable 2nds and while they are reliable and ok, there's always a shock for me when I switch from the G250's and notice the performance difference.

So I started looking for used G250's to replace the Sherwoods. My surprise is that even old ones, born in the 90's are as expensive or even more expensive than a new Hog adjustable 2nd.

So my questions are:

  1. How do Hogs perform in comparison to a G250?
  2. How much easier or more difficult is it to service and work on a Hog in comparison to a G250?
  3. I understand they're both metal barrel adjustables for spring tension and venturi assist, are there any advantages or disadvantages of one over the other in terms of design?
 
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I can't answer your question about the HOG, but if you're looking for a cheaper alternative to the G250, you can try a G200 then convert it to balanced (or better, G200B). Same reg without the user adjustment for breathing resistance. Another is the all metal 109 or balanced adjustable; basically a G250 in a metal case with slightly less venturi assist, but IMO a more stable and pleasing airflow. Those are starting to get a little pricey, though, I'll have to stop posting how great they are.

Okay, the official word on the 109 and balanced adjustable is that they suck...
 
Okay, the official word on the 109 and balanced adjustable is that they suck...
Does anyone want to trade sucky 109's for superb Sherwood Bruts? :D
 
What's wrong with the performance of the Sherwood Brut second stage?
How well is yours tuned?

The reg tech manual for the Brut recommends that, when set up as a primary, the cracking pressure shouldn't be greater than 1 inch of water. I interpret this to mean that the cracking pressure can be adjusted to 1 inch of water or less. That should make flow initiation fairly easy.

What aspect of breathing performance of your Brut are you unhappy with?
 
Honestly, there's nothing wrong with the Bruts. These are old gen Bruts (SRB2100) and perform perfectly adequately within their limitations. So I can't really say I'm unhappy with them. Some of the things I notice the most when doing the change is that cracking effort, while not necessarily extremely higher,will need to be sustained longer (lack of venturi assist?). Also keep in mind that I do use the adjusting knob. So when I make the change I'm changing from a reg "custom tuned" in that dive to an unbalanced non-adjustable that lacks venturi assist and was tuned a long time ago. There is a notable difference.

Again, the Bruts are perfectly fine and work great. Maybe I'm splitting hairs and should actually look for a better use of my time and money since I already have more 2nd stages than what I actually need. But when I brought in an eBay Mk10, took it apart cleaned it and reassembled it with new orings and seats, there was a strange elation that I recall everytime I hook it into a tank.

BTW, that gleaming Mk10 is working in conjunction with a humble Brut right now. I was thinking of maybe bringing in a G250 or even a Hog so that its self esteem doesn't drop too much. How many regs are too many regs?
 
Between my wife and I we have 12 sets of the HOG D1 regs and have no issues with them in recreational or technical settings. We switched from Apeks regs (mostly for cost reasons, also because I didn't enjoy working with the local shop that worked with Apeks). They are also very easy to self service as the repair kits are generally available. I'd heartily recommend them, personally.
 
So they are really Apex clones?
 

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