Anyone have one? How do you attach lights?
Thanks.
Chris
Thanks.
Chris
Gates housings for Canon Vixia
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I don't but the handles are threaded so you buy the appropriate adapter from your lights mfr.
A couple of examples - For the first, those look like ULCS arms/adapters. From the ULCS website:
You'll also need the correct ULCS adapter for your lightheads on the other side unless they come with it.
For the second one they're using some sort of loc-line base adapter bolted to the handles and the loc-line arms just snap onto it. That works better when the light batteries are mounted separately as shown - loc-line gets "floppy" at longer distances or with heavier lights.
A couple of examples - For the first, those look like ULCS arms/adapters. From the ULCS website:
You'll also need the correct ULCS adapter for your lightheads on the other side unless they come with it.
For the second one they're using some sort of loc-line base adapter bolted to the handles and the loc-line arms just snap onto it. That works better when the light batteries are mounted separately as shown - loc-line gets "floppy" at longer distances or with heavier lights.
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baitballer
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I have two Gates housing, an older one for a sony PC and a new one for the Canon GF S21. Both housing are IMO fantastic and I would always buy Gates. There customer service is fantastic.
I have a set of nite rider lights (no longer made) mounted on mine. The battery mounts underneath and the lights heads are mounted on Locline that comes off the handles.
It is a good set up the only problem I have is white balancing on the way down. If you do not do it all the way down you will nnot be able to do it at depth so your colours are not great. I would much prefer a one touch button but I can live without it.
I have a set of nite rider lights (no longer made) mounted on mine. The battery mounts underneath and the lights heads are mounted on Locline that comes off the handles.
It is a good set up the only problem I have is white balancing on the way down. If you do not do it all the way down you will nnot be able to do it at depth so your colours are not great. I would much prefer a one touch button but I can live without it.
OP
I found a good deal on the Gates for the HF s-21. Please tell me more details, as it is still a big expense on my budget.
-Do you have any videos posted?
-What ports are you using?
-Do you use diopters?
-Do you use the internal filter?
- Since white balance is accomplished on the touch screen, how does that work with the housing?
- the s21 maxes out at 60i- it won't do 60p. Therefore, I usually shoot 30p since I like progressive for online video work. Have you run into any issues with this?
I already own two L&M Sola 1200's, so now i just need a workable arm configuration.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
-Do you have any videos posted?
-What ports are you using?
-Do you use diopters?
-Do you use the internal filter?
- Since white balance is accomplished on the touch screen, how does that work with the housing?
- the s21 maxes out at 60i- it won't do 60p. Therefore, I usually shoot 30p since I like progressive for online video work. Have you run into any issues with this?
I already own two L&M Sola 1200's, so now i just need a workable arm configuration.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
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In your area, Reef Photo in Ft. Lauderdale probably has everything you need.
All the mounts are here:
Light & Motion Industries : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros
Light & Motion Industries : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros
ULCS arm segments here: Ultralight Control Systems : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros
My buddy has a 2 arm ULCS system with Stix Floats and ULCS tray for his Canon. Total cost was about $200 for everything.
Somebody at Reef spec'd all the right parts when he called. They also sell the loc-line although it's found online cheap also - it's primary use is for industrial cooling solvent transfer during machining. I have read somewhere is that if you get a piece of thick wall plastic tubing and put it inside your loc-line segments, they can be used at longer lengths.
OP
I almost forgot about REEF. Thanks.
baitballer
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I have only used my new Housing for one trip to Indonesia. Going to HD from miniDV SD is a big jump with much more to think about and get right. MiniDv SD is more forgiving there is no doubt about that.
The one area that you have to put lots of effort into is white balance and if you go too deep without doing it you will then not be able to manual white balance. This can be a pain. The white Balance is via the remote control not the touch screen. The remote is mounted in the housing and you access it via buttons on the top. It is quite fiddly to begin with but after a while it becomes second nature and you do not really think about it.
I use a red fliter when not using my lights that is mounted inside the housing, you can flip it over whenever you want it or not. When doing Macro I use diopters screwed directly on the camera lens, I have used +2 or +4 and they work very well when combined with a flat macro port.
I also have a wide angle port that I used when not focussing on macro. So in Komodo for example I used that on the Manta Dives, reef scenes etc but for the macro and night dives I used the flat port, lights and diopter.
I am very happy with the setup and some of the footage is not bad. As I said there is a learning curve going from SD to HD with white balance being the big one. I would prefer a one touch white balance but they are pretty much gone now I think due to changes with the sony camera's and I don't think they were ever possible with the Canon ones.
Just remember to keep white balancing all the way down to whatever depth you are going to be filming at. (Remeber to equalise your ears as well as your camera or you may end like me spending a week in Lembeh watching your freinds and wife going diving while you sit on the dock!!)
I am editing some footage at the moment on my new Mac which is taking longer than I would like since before I used Avid for SD but it will not edit the Hd so I am having to learn a whole new system. I may be able to post some specific shots such as macro if you want to see them.
The one area that you have to put lots of effort into is white balance and if you go too deep without doing it you will then not be able to manual white balance. This can be a pain. The white Balance is via the remote control not the touch screen. The remote is mounted in the housing and you access it via buttons on the top. It is quite fiddly to begin with but after a while it becomes second nature and you do not really think about it.
I use a red fliter when not using my lights that is mounted inside the housing, you can flip it over whenever you want it or not. When doing Macro I use diopters screwed directly on the camera lens, I have used +2 or +4 and they work very well when combined with a flat macro port.
I also have a wide angle port that I used when not focussing on macro. So in Komodo for example I used that on the Manta Dives, reef scenes etc but for the macro and night dives I used the flat port, lights and diopter.
I am very happy with the setup and some of the footage is not bad. As I said there is a learning curve going from SD to HD with white balance being the big one. I would prefer a one touch white balance but they are pretty much gone now I think due to changes with the sony camera's and I don't think they were ever possible with the Canon ones.
Just remember to keep white balancing all the way down to whatever depth you are going to be filming at. (Remeber to equalise your ears as well as your camera or you may end like me spending a week in Lembeh watching your freinds and wife going diving while you sit on the dock!!)
I am editing some footage at the moment on my new Mac which is taking longer than I would like since before I used Avid for SD but it will not edit the Hd so I am having to learn a whole new system. I may be able to post some specific shots such as macro if you want to see them.
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