Harness and backplate assembly question

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jvisser

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(Sorry if this thread exists, but I couldnt' find mention of this issue).

1. I'm brand-new to DIR, "speculatively," since I haven't any formal DIR training. I'm thrilled to have found DIR, I'm completely on-board with the concept. I've been diving since '77, PADI.

2. I'm assebling my own backplate/harness/wing/single tank system. I have followed the isntructions for weaving the harness found on the GUE adn other sites. So far, so good, except my single piece harness webbing is a bit shorter than I'd prefer.

3. The question: the harness webing has a stainless grommet in the middle that crosses the backplate at the top-center mounting hole; will this piece of webbing and grommet tilt the single tank adapter, and should it perhpas be balanced with a similar piece at the bottom? And, if the STA top bolt doesn't go through the center (webbing) hole, should there be a bolt for the webbing?

Thanks,

jv
 
Knock the grommet out of the webbing. The top bolt on the STA has to go through a hole in the webbing and another bolt is not needed.

Ben
 
jvisser:
2. I'm assebling my own backplate/harness/wing/single tank system. I have followed the isntructions for weaving the harness found on the GUE adn other sites. So far, so good, except my single piece harness webbing is a bit shorter than I'd prefer.
I know it isnt your question, but how long is your webbing? I know when i bought a standard harness kit my webbing was about 15ft long and i snipped off about 18" from each end after i threaded it through.
 
That's a good point--Did you make your own harness out of webbing--If so that's fine but typically harness webbing is like 15 feet long---
 
No need for the grommet in the webbing - a cleanly melted hole with a soldering iron (this WILL ruin the tip for soldering), a heated nail, or a punched hole with melted edges is sufficient. There's no need to worry about "balancing" the STA with a webbing insert at the other end - the effect is negligible once assembled.

No need for a bolt through the webbing if the STA bolt doesn't go through it - the backplate slots keep the top of the harness in place because of the offset angles.
 
You don't need the grommet; do the soldering iron trick described above.
 
EZ and Scubaroo are right...I have a "good" soldering iron for soldering and a "bad" one for burning webbing and holes in hoods, etc.

Although you already have it rigged, I figured I would share this link since a lot of people find it helpful when rigging this stuff..

http://www.gue.com/equipment/backplate6.html
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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