Has anyone overnighted to Holbox for whale sharks?

[Ms. Ann Thrope]

We'll soon be on Cozumel during what should be peak whale shark season. We've sort of decided we're going to break up our time by going to Isla Holbox and attempt a whale shark swim. From most of what I've read here, people have hooked up with guides or companies that have arranged private transport and the whole deal from Cozumel or Playa or Cancun. We don't want to do it that way. We plan to get up frightfully early one day, take the ferry-bus-bus-ferry route to Holbox, find a whale shark tour to join when we arrive, check into a hotel (thereby allowing us to get to know the island a bit), do the swim the next morning and then leisurely pick our way back to Cozumel in the afternoon. No hurries, no worries, assuming the weather and sharks cooperate.

I've done a fair bit of Internet searching and think our plan should work, but has anyone here done it this way? Any recommendations? (The one thing I'm fairly firm on is I don't want anyone to try to convince us to base out of Isla Mujeres. We want to see Holbox.) The only thing we're looking to book ahead is possibly the hotel. Anyone know any reasons why we absolutely shouldn't do it this way?

 

[DandyDon]

When is your trip? I haven't been yet; was going last August and got as close as Cozumel in the week long plan, then had to abort & evacuate in advance of Hurricane Dean. Had started weekly malaria prophylaxis; still got most of that bottle left and have resupplied to have enough for this years trip. I know, most don't bother with malaria prophylaxis, but the CDC suggests it and I trust their opinion more than I do my own or non-medical professionals here who tell me they don't.

There are a surprisingly large numbers of hotels on the island - from the very basic to very nice, but you've probly noticed that the bookings are pretty much controlled by a handful of agencies. I had difficulties booking on one of the agency sites and finally got them to give me the email addy for Hotel Holbox Dream and booked directly with them for 3 nights, 2 morning whale snorkel trips, 2 afternoons free to explore other nearby sights. I'm not one for backtracking tho; have an open jaw plane ticket arriving Cozumel, departing Cancun the same day we leave Holbox. We're going to drive a rental car to the Holbox ferry, then back to the airport.

 

[ben@scorpiodivers.com]

not a bad way to do it, its a long haul from cancun so cozumel add on another 2 hrs. im off to holbox tomorrow 6am for a friends wedding which is at 4pm, we re staying there overnight at the hotel azul, we did book it up around 6 weeks ago and they are 100% so the transport is no problem but make sure you have somewhere secured to sleep! i always take my emergency hammack too (you never know)!
as for the whale sharks and holbox island, its really mellow and relaxed, cheap and tasty seafood, beautiful white sandy beaches and the whale sharks are obviously the main event, the tour runs between $60-$80 depending on the boats really, the sharks are approx 40mins ride out. look for the giant mantas too, they were jumping all last week and have a wondeful trip!
no reason why you shouldnt do it that way at all!

 

[Ms. Ann Thrope]

Ben, Dandy Don--thanks for your replies. Dandy Don--we'll probably go the first Monday or Tuesday in August. Your open-jaw ticket looks like a very good idea. I didn't even think of that (then again, we're going on frequent flier miles, and trying to arrange even that was head-spinning enough).

I am noticing the hotels are booking up, though I'm still seeing a few rooms available here and there that look ok to me. Guess I'd better get on that. I'm having a hard time figuring out if the 10 or so places that show up on all the booking sites are pretty representative of what's over there, or if it's one of those places where you show up and there are three times as many options as you thought, plenty of them charming. Ben or anyone--any recommendations? My needs are simple--a little ambiance and comfort, AC only necessary if there's no ocean breeze, beachfront or close to it. In-room lizards ok. I like rustic if I can be on the beach, but I've been in posadas that have been so spartan as to be a bit grim--not really looking for that so much. I think I noticed a campsite/palapa place or two if we get hard up. Maybe we should be bringing emergency hammocks as well!

I'm suddenly thinking my biggest concern is trying to do a whale shark tour and leave the island by ferry/bus, all in the same day. I've been reading the last Chiquila-to-Cancun bus leaves at 1:30--not sure tours even get back onto Holbox by noon. That could force us to rent a car in Playa instead of taking the bus, which might be nice for a little extra freedom--not sure what the on-the-fly options for getting from Chiquila to downtown Cancun might be, other than an expensive taxi ride.

I'm very much looking forward to a dead-quiet starry-night sky, and wow would I be happy to find myself amidst whale sharks AND mantas. I expect to wish I had more time.

 

[DandyDon]

I'm suddenly thinking my biggest concern is trying to do a whale shark tour and leave the island by ferry/bus, all in the same day. I've been reading the last Chiquila-to-Cancun bus leaves at 1:30--not sure tours even get back onto Holbox by noon. That could force us to rent a car in Playa instead of taking the bus, which might be nice for a little extra freedom--not sure what the on-the-fly options for getting from Chiquila to downtown Cancun might be, other than an expensive taxi ride.

I'm very much looking forward to a dead-quiet starry-night sky, and wow would I be happy to find myself amidst whale sharks AND mantas. I expect to wish I had more time.

I'll know more when I get back, but I'm not arriving Holbox until Aug 7 - after you.

I think you can expect the whale shark boat to take 6 hours or so: 2 hours each way, 2 hours there. Lunches are often included. A third option is a private shuttle service that can take you to Chiquila, then pick you up on return. Cost more than a car rental tho. I'll look up my details on both options and get back to you in a couple of days. Packing for an overnight campout now. Sounds like you really need 2 or 3 nights in the village.

 

[DIVECOZUMEL]

If you are VERY lucky you might also see this...........

Golden Ray photos of amazing mass migration - Telegraph

 

[DandyDon]

If you are VERY lucky you might also see this...........

Golden Ray photos of amazing mass migration - Telegraph

Hey don't tease us like that. Do they come thru there around now...?

The article was very flawed in it original version saying they migrated from Florida to somewhere on the Pacific coast. I see they have corrected it to substitute Yucatan. Super!

 

[Ms. Ann Thrope]

Hi Dandy Don, don't knock yourself out looking at your transfer info on my behalf--doing a RT transfer is just not what we want to do, given any kind of choice. We've driven around the Yucatan quite a few times, and I have no hesitations to do it again--we just originally thought the bus would be cheap, easy and relatively convenient. Still would be if we were planning two nights on Holbox, which we can't do unless I manage to change our plane reservations/extend our trip. At least if we end up getting a car, we can do a bit of extra wandering. All the driving directions I've seen make it sound like it's almost as fast to go south through Tulum and use the Coba road (which I've driven before, at night no less) as it is to go through or around Cancun (depending on whether or not it's easy to find the private shortcut road).

I saw someone else's golden ray pictures too, but they didn't make it look nearly as huge as in that Telegraph link. Wow. I won't be expecting quite that much luck!

 

[underachiever]

We are going to fly into Cancun then to Holbox for 3 nights an at least one maybe 2 days of swiming with whale sharks. Then over to Cozumel for 6 days.


August 29th-Sept 7. Swim with whale sharks on Holbox and diving with Scuba Mau on Cozumel.

 

[Coz Sally]

Three years ago I went to Holbox to do the whale shark snorkel. I loved it so much I vowed to go every summer, but am only now getting around to going back.

From Cozumel, I took the ferry to Playa, the bus to Cancun, the bus to Chiquila, and the ferry to Holbox. The bus to Chiquila was NOT fun. They oversold the seats, which is apparently common, and I sat on someone's backpack in the aisle for much of the journey. It's a long, local bus ride with many stops to let people on and off and many near stops for speed bumps.

Upon arrival I scouted around for inexpensive lodgings. This was a budget trip. I found a posada (local inn, very basic) where I negotiated an air conditioned room for $30 per night. Given the explosive popularity of the whale shark snorkel, that may no longer be possible, even only three years later. My only mistake was to pay for two nights up front.

From there I headed to the corner of the plaza where friends had told me to ask for a certain snorkel operator, I've forgotten the name, sorry. I found the guy's partner and he gave an small, unexpected discount when I told him from whom the recommendation came. I was set for the next morning.

I wandered the beach (buggy) and the town (small), in about half an hour. To put things in perspective, I absolutely LOVE Isla Mujeres, small as it is. I think Holbox is really boring. Perhaps if I had had a nicer hotel to stay at I would have enjoyed it more, but I never spend time at my hotel so I generally just go for a place to shower and sleep comfortably. Perhaps if I had gone with a group instead of by myself (I generally love solo travel) it would have been more fun.

The whale shark excursion was incredible! It's a "don't miss" in my opinion, if you're coming to this part of the world, this time of year. We left early and returned early enough to take the ferry back to the mainland in time for the 1:30pm bus to Cancun. Silly me. I figured since I had planned on another night in Holbox and had paid for it, I should stay. It was dull. The service at the restaurants I went to was surly, and I'm not a picky traveler. I just didn't like Holbox.

That said, I know loads of people who love it. However, if you've been to Isla Mujeres and thought that was dull, plan on spending as little time as possible in Holbox.

So will I go back? Absolutely! I'm trying to coordinate a trip with Mayan Aquadive with friends. It's a bit pricey for me but one long day without staying in Holbox appeals to me greatly. It's easier to fit into my schedule as well. If that doesn't work out, I'll end up at Isla Mujeres for a few days and do it from there. It will cost more and take longer but will also be a mini-vacation for me.

Hope that helps!