Help to configure PT-043 housing

[DMdoogie]

I purchared a PT-043 housing to use with my 1030SW and my Sea & Sea Ys-27 strobe. The Housing has a screwed in diffuser plate over where the camera strobe would flash. I want to use the synch cord from the YS-27 with the usual blask mask on the housing covering the camera flash. How do I attach the mask with the synch cord port to the housing? Remove the screwed in diffuser? Is there a better way?
Thanks in advance for your expertise.
DMdoogie

 

[Nemrod]

JFYI, even though "unGrateful" persons have said it is improper to answer questions of which one does not have the exact equipment, I do have the similar Oly 770SW and Oly housing which has a similar diffuser on the housing. I carefully removed the diffuser, it is held with very small screws, this should allow you to affix the strobe cable with your mask. Later I purchased the Inon AD adapter but in this case I don't think there is an application for the PT-043.

Initially, before purchasing the Inon adapter, not realizing there was such a thing, I fabricated a small stainless steel shield using the removed diffuser as a pattern. I then attached the cable to the fabricated shield. I placed in between the shield and the housing a small piece of rubber with a slit cut in it and the piece of soft rubber was adhered to the stainless shield with 1300L. Once the small screws were pulled tight the slit was compressed which would pinch the optical cable. I did have pics on photobucket to link but I erased them all today, sorry. The system worked but the AD adapter was more factory looking so it is long gone into the graveyard of other less than brilliant ideas. You can probably dream up something similar. Good luck. N

 

[djjsperry]

Have a question how are the pictures with the strobe. I have the same camera and housing but I am going to buy the olympus strobe so I don;t have to worry about wires it will auto strobe when my flash goes off.
Janelle

 

[Nemrod]

The S&S and Inon don't need wires either and are much better strobes. The problem with using an open optical sync is that not only will your strobe fire when it sees other strobes but the camera's strobe will light up all the debris in the water. N

 

[JackConnick]

Almost all slave strobes (ie almost all that work optically) will slave off a camera's strobe. But that really defeats one ofhte main purposes of an external strobe and that is to achieve more dramtic lighting and reduce backscatter.

An easy fix is to mask off the inside of the housing with black electrical tape, except foa small opening over which you affix the sync cord on the outside of the housing. The sync cords I sell have a velcro fastener for that purpose.

In answer to the O.P., I think that the suggestion to remove the diffuser (carefully!!) isn't a bad idea, although usually you can kind of cram the velcro piece in there.

Olympus has addressed this issue on the new PT-045 and 047 housings with a black slide in socket to hold a sync cord. It's a very nice (and removable) idea.

Jack

 

[pinotscubajack]

I purchased the exact camera and housing. I bought the INON 28AD bayonet mount base to fit an INON 28AD UWL 100 (wide angle) lens. In addition, I purchased the INON fiber optic cable and mounting hardware to fit the bayonet mount base (see Nemrod's post) - it also comes with INON's clear film system to mask the camera's flash and works wonderfully with the INON D2000 strobe I purchased. I bought the 28 AD mount base for the PT-043 housing and fiber optic hardware from Divervision - great service. I got the lens from an ebay seller and the strobe from Craigslist - both in great shape. I finished it off with an INON D3 tray and 5 inch arm (ebay). Ultralight clamps (Divervision), and an Aquatica bouancy float (1 lb. of lift). The whole rig weighs about 3/4 of a pound in fresh water and almost 6 pounds in air. I haven't been diving with it yet.