Hollis SMS 50 - Ditch the bungees?

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flots am

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I have a Hollis SMS 50 that I use just for open water (no religious arguments please - I like the redundancy and my joints won't handle walking up a ladder with 100+ lbs of gear anymore)

The tank valve is attached to the harness with a bolt snap and cave line, however the BC also came with bungees that go around the tank neck and pull it tighter to the harness.

I'm thinking of ditching the bungee since it just adds to the amount of "stuff" happening near the tank valve (hoses, bolt-snap, bungee, reg, etc.). I've tried it without the bungee and there isn't a big difference. The tank hangs just a little looser, but I don't think it's a problem.

Is the bungee really necessary, or is it like the padding and cummerbund I removed from my jacket BC and tossed in the spare parts box?

flots.
 
Are you running a continuous bungee? If so I know what you mean about the clutter near the D-rings. Consider longer tails on the neck of the tank and loop bungees.

This puts the tanks more behind your armpits, with the necks higher. You'll have less clutter on the D-rings, and better mobility of your arms since the valves won't be under your arm.
 
Your problem is probably the nature of the bungees supplied by Hollis... in short, they are terrible. Both on the SMS50 and SMS100. Far too stiff and strong...

All the students I've taught sidemount too, who had Hollis rigs, struggled with them. Swap over to some lighter 5-6mm bungee.... or even a double strand of 3mm. Then it starts to get workable.

Sidemount without a bungee. That's called 'staging', isn't it? Not using a bungee allows the valve end of the cylinder to dip. It's not a case of 'looser'...but rather, it makes it impossible to properly trim your tanks. If the valve dips, then the butt rises. That gets exaggerated as air is used, especially with ali tanks. Bang goes your streamlining, stability and control...

If you like the option to clip the tanks on, why not investigate the DiveRite 'Ring Bungee' method?
 
Your problem is probably the nature of the bungees supplied by Hollis... in short, they are terrible. Both on the SMS50 and SMS100. Far too stiff and strong...

All the students I've taught sidemount too, who had Hollis rigs, struggled with them. Swap over to some lighter 5-6mm bungee.... or even a double strand of 3mm. Then it starts to get workable.

Sidemount without a bungee. That's called 'staging', isn't it? Not using a bungee allows the valve end of the cylinder to dip. It's not a case of 'looser'...but rather, it makes it impossible to properly trim your tanks. If the valve dips, then the butt rises. That gets exaggerated as air is used, especially with ali tanks. Bang goes your streamlining, stability and control...

If you like the option to clip the tanks on, why not investigate the DiveRite 'Ring Bungee' method?

They are really strong, however since I had nothing to compare it to, I though that was normal. I'll try swapping it out with something thinner.

The diverite looks interesting too. I'll have to pick up some hardware and see if I like it.

Thanks!

flots.
 
I use the old school bungee kit from cave adventurers on my SMS 100, I'll be purchasing an SMS 50 this weekend and will use the same thing on that rig. It's easy to get set right and holds the tanks right behind my armpits. Most importantly it's completely comfortable!!
 
The diverite looks interesting too. I'll have to pick up some hardware and see if I like it.

The DiveRite system is amazing, but it is an entire system. Unless you use a NetDoc type rigging for the top clip, you have to use stage straps to make the top clip sit right.

It's worth checking the DiveRite videos to see how it all goes together.

I don't mind and maybe prefer having stage straps on my tanks because the rigging is always coming on and off, and thus I need the stage strap system anyway, but some people think the Stage rigging is a potential entanglement hazard.
 
...since I had nothing to compare it to, I though that was normal.

No.. not normal... a complete P.I.T.A... and I don't know why Hollis would ever supply them. It's like a frigging work-out getting the bungees onto the cylinder - so people have a tendency to leave the bungees far too slack... causing knock-on cylinder trim problems.

When I know I'll be teaching sidemount to a Hollis equipped diver, I always bring a bunch of spare bungee cord in varied diameters. They get to play with different options and see what their preference is (it's never the standard Hollis as-supplied). Sad Sidemount Instructor Fact #1: I have a 'special bag' full of different sized bungee cords, elastic strapping and bolt-snaps. LOL

The diverite looks interesting too. I'll have to pick up some hardware and see if I like it.

As Beano said, there's some decent info to be viewed on Youtube.
 
The DiveRite system is amazing, but it is an entire system. Unless you use a NetDoc type rigging for the top clip, you have to use stage straps to make the top clip sit right.

It's worth checking the DiveRite videos to see how it all goes together.

I don't mind and maybe prefer having stage straps on my tanks because the rigging is always coming on and off, and thus I need the stage strap system anyway, but some people think the Stage rigging is a potential entanglement hazard.

This one looked interesting. I'm going to pick up a little hardware and try it.

Thanks guys!

flots.

Sidemount Diving: 2012 Daisy Chain Loop Bungees & Stage Strap Tank Mounting - YouTube
 
I use the old school bungee kit from cave adventurers on my SMS 100, I'll be purchasing an SMS 50 this weekend and will use the same thing on that rig. It's easy to get set right and holds the tanks right behind my armpits. Most importantly it's completely comfortable!!

+1 for this
dirt simple and gets steel tanks up high behind your arm pits, not hangin' low

Does not work that well with unweighted AL80s since they like to "roll-up" once they are down to around 2000psi and that ends up disconnecting the bungie from the valve so the tank will suddenly be hanging from the neck clip.
 
+1 for this
dirt simple and gets steel tanks up high behind your arm pits, not hangin' low

Does not work that well with unweighted AL80s since they like to "roll-up" once they are down to around 2000psi and that ends up disconnecting the bungie from the valve so the tank will suddenly be hanging from the neck clip.

I have never had that problem. Wonder why. I have a hundred or so salt water AL dives with old school bungees and no issues. Could it be the type valves that allow it to happen? I never weight tanks. Maybe it is where I have the rear leash placed?
 

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