Hollis SMS 50

[Baracuda Smile]

I am seeking information those who have dove the Hollis SMS 50.

I am a tech 50 meter diver, and there are some small changes to the SMS 50 that I would like to make. I do not want to void the warranty.

For instance both the shoulder buckles and the waist D rings I would like to change to bigger and welded D rings and add two more sets.
Next is the chest strap which I am not found of, I can see that it helps to keep the LP inflator where it can be reached. Can this be removed or is it critical to keeping the tanks close into the body?
I have heard that the bungies are to stiff, opinions, do they get better with time, or do they need to be replaced?
I would prefer a bit longer LP Inflator hose as I have to strain to orally inflate the BCD, and with a Dry Suit it could be difficult.
I would like to add weight pockets to the shoulders.
The Hollis SMS 50 has 23lbs of lift has anyone tried using two 80's mains with 2 x Alum 40's for deco gas?

My plan is to use the SMS 50 Tech Wreck diving in the remote Pacific where they often do not have tech setups for rent, and the costs for excess baggage on airlines can cost as much as your plane ticket.
Sidmount with SMS 50 will allow me longer bottom times, and to penatrate wrecks especially through the narrow hatches.

 

[DevonDiver]

For instance both the shoulder buckles and the waist D rings I would like to change to bigger and welded D rings and add two more sets.

Not sure why you'd want to do this, but one of the drawbacks of the Hollis SMS50 is the typical lack of flexibility associated with 'comfort type' harness designs. It isn't a single-piece webbing arrangement, so removing/replacing the D-rings would involve a certain amount of hacking and sewing.

With practice, you'll build the muscle-memory to utilize the existing D-rings fine enough, so I'd say it probably isn't worth the effort.

Next is the chest strap which I am not found of, I can see that it helps to keep the LP inflator where it can be reached. Can this be removed or is it critical to keeping the tanks close into the body?

I've never found a chest strap necessary, for either backmount or sidemount, but then I've got pretty broad shoulders. Never had a problem with shoulder straps falling off mid-dive...

One configuration tweek with the chest strap is to replace the 'silly string' system that holds the LPI across the chest. 2 zip-ties and 4" of 3mm bungee does a far better job (that can clip directly to the opposite should D-ring if you remove the chest strap entirely.

I have heard that the bungies are to stiff, opinions, do they get better with time, or do they need to be replaced?

Yes, the bungees on the SMS50 and SMS100 are ridiculous. They are well worth replacing.

I would prefer a bit longer LP Inflator hose as I have to strain to orally inflate the BCD, and with a Dry Suit it could be difficult.

It doesn't need to be longer, it just needs to be flexible/stretchier. I use the oval-shaped, shorter corrugated hoses on all my rigs, they stretch effectively when oral inflation is needed.

The lower one...

I would like to add weight pockets to the shoulders.

It has weight pocket on the upper wing area. Otherwise, you can just use zip-tie (if temporary/travelling). For a more permanent fix... you could add weights directly to the webbing if it weren't for the design being inflexible.

The Hollis SMS 50 has 23lbs of lift has anyone tried using two 80's mains with 2 x Alum 40's for deco gas?

Yes, works fine.

 

[Baracuda Smile]

DevonDiver

Great replies and they all make a lot of sense. The extra welded D rings would be to attack the 40cu/ft tanks. I know in caving they like to put reels and other stuff on the rear or on the crotch strap, but when using a scooter I do not want to get any entanglements with the prop, hence the extra D rings. I use a pair of custom made shorts to put my spare mask, and my dive slates. I took my SMS 50 out on her maiden voyage yesterday, and other than getting into and out of the water (shore dive), I loved the trim the balance and it was easy to get a nice kick and glide. My two aluminum 80 tanks were a bit bouyant at the deco stop so I will add a few pounds for that, possibly on the tanks, or just wear a waist belt. To keep in a slightly face down position during deco I wanted to add weight to the shoulders, as when you have two empty Al80's and 2 x 40's all bouyant it makes a difference. I put 4lbs (it fits nicely) between the shoulder blades in the SMS 50 zipper pocket. I put 2 x 2lb weights on each tank using the tank strap, and I wore a 3mm, boots, gloves and a hood. I am 5'9" and a bit over weight at 200lbs. Of course the best way to check your bouyancy is to have a deflated BCD, and to float a eye level with a normal breath when you tanks have 500psi or less in them. I have posted the above so as a baseline so you can ball park your weight and trim for the Hollis SMS 50.

Next test is with a scooter!

Devon Diver Thank You so much for your advise!

 

[DevonDiver]

It's pretty easy to add an extra D-ring to the butt-plate. This is an optimum point for stowing reels/gear with sidemount. I haven't yet figured out why Hollis didn't bother with it.

You certainly don't 'need' extra shoulder D-rings for securing stages etc. As long as your D-rings aren't cluttered with superfluous clutter, you can easily get 3x tanks per side clipped on (two stages via direct snap, plus bungees clipped there). Just a little bit of 'D-ring management' and practice needed to make it easy.

There's some good threads on sidemount stages/deco cylinders if you search back...

 

[batcave]

The upper D-rings are conventionally attached, so by unraveling the webbing from the top, I don't see a problem replacing them or adding another set - no tools needed.

This is different of course with the D-rings where the chest-strap is attached. Changing them will require cutting /sewing, but if You want to add a set of D-rings below them, you can do this by unraveling things from the belt-/mini-backplate-side - again, no tools.

However, I agree with DevonDiver: Why? You can attach plenty of stuff to the available rings - way more then I would consider safe with 23lbs of lift. I usually dive two (alu) 80s sidemount plus one 80-stage, but occasionally using a total of four 80s, I have found the 23lbs of lift more restricting than attachment problems: it's barely enough to keep your head above the (fresh-)water, and the only weight I am using is 2lbs in the "neck-pouch" for balance.

I used to attach 2 shoulder weights on my old rig, but the "neck-pouch" of the SMS50 made this unnecessary - although it would still be possible.

Regarding the bungees: Ok, there is room for improvement, but I haven't seen any solution that isn't more dangly or more inconvenient to handle.

The "silly-string"-LPI contraption didn't even last through my first dive with the SMS50, but DevonDivers solution (bungee + clip) works fine and might enable you to get rid of the chest-strap, as the side mount tanks don't tend to pull the harness outward.

Compared to rigs like the Nomad, you sacrifice a reasonable amount of versatility, but with some small modifications, you get a very streamlined and travel-friendly piece of equipment. (Suggestion: get rid of all the padding (backside and webbing), that will further reduce packing-size, and thread the webbing "backwards" in the upper attachments behind your neck, so the loose ends won't be sticking out.)