hoping for Fiji input, thinking Kadavu then Nananu-I-Ra

[Ms. Ann Thrope]

I'm tired of quarries and lakes and dry suits, and a certain frequent-flier bonus is looking too good to pass up, so I'm scheduled to go to Fiji for just under two weeks in late October.

After filtering an overload of info, I'm considering diving for about five days at Kadavu/Matava, then going back to Viti Levu and heading for one of the backpacker-type hotels at Nananu-I-Ra for perhaps another five days of diving.

After days of intensive Internet research, I still have questions. And some concerns after reading Nikkyo's recent post.

Though I'm an experienced diver, I'll be traveling (and I assume diving) essentially alone this trip, and I'm a bit apprehensive about it. I haven't been buddyless since I was a new diver in the keys. Is my solo status likely to be a problem at the places I'm considering? And are solo women treated reasonably well?

When people talk about Fiji's currents, are they akin to a brisk ride in Cozumel? Or stronger?

I don't mind spending good money on diving, but I'm often a little cheap when it comes to lodgings and food. Does anyone know how the dorm thing generally works in most places in Fiji? Are they segregated by gender? I'm also apprehensive about leaving my dive gear alone anywhere that others might have access to it. Should I be thinking, "avoid dorm arrangements?"

The things I'm looking for are:

Good diving (this will be my first trip to Fiji, and my only previous exposure to diving that side of the world has been a PNG liveaboard--so I guess that means my standards are both low and high). I'd love to see a manta or two. I like seeing the occasional shark but that's never a primary draw. Mostly I just want beauty and lots of life. And since I'm going to be alone, I don't want it to be super hard. I'd like to be able to do a couple of night dives, and maybe even some shore dives--or at least shore snorkeling.

Accommodations that are reasonably secure and not expensive, ideally friendly and welcoming for someone who's not in their 20s or even 30s anymore.

Does my itinerary sound sound? Any tweaks, suggestions or additions? Should I be considering Taveuni or some other spot over Kadavu? Am I likely to be glad I chose Fiji over a Cayman liveaboard?

All helpful input welcome.

 

[divnlite]

Can't answer most of your questions, however.... Dove in the Yasawa Islands, Fiji, earlier this year (May) and while there were currents, they were no big deal. Equal or less than some of those we experienced in Cozumel in June of this year. Good time, easy diving, mediocre vis but cool stuff to see and fantastic coral color.
People in Fiji are very friendly and its easy to relax and have a good time. You'll have a great time!

 

[CaribQueen]

Currents first: Fiji & Coz are different. Also depends where in Fiji you will be diving. I dove off Nananu-I-Ra in June 2004 with Crystal Divers. The currents in the open water, Bligh Channel (outer reefs) were quite brisk. One dive in particular "Breath Taker" had incredible currents—thus the name. The fringing reefs were not so bad—more like the Coz wall dives, but you could see and get to the bottom. Remember, a rippin' current equals great soft corals. But the Fijian currents are not nearly as bad as those in Indonesia.

Solo Female Travel: Nananu-I-Ra seemed to cater more to the Int'l backpacker type. All ages/all types. I didn't see/hear anything that would prevent me from going it alone.

Not much to do there other than dive. Snorkeling was so-so at best. Meeting people was easy. I stayed at the now closed Bamboo Beach resort and we would wander over to Bethams or McDonalds for a change of scenery. We were there 2 weeks & that was too long. Don't get me wrong—diving was great—but you can't be underwater all the time. Fiji, to me, was as good as PNG. Oh yeah...food was an issue. Not much in the way of "groceries" on that little island. The restaurants were minimal but would work. Also, no real way to get around the island.

 

[DesertEagle]

I'm heading to Nananu-I-ra in early September, so I'll give a trip report when I get back.

 

[maddmike]

I was at Taveuni and Kadavu earlier this summer. I'd go back to Taveuni but not Kadavu. Rainbow Reef diving was better than the Astrolabe. Snorkling on Taveuni was also better than Kadavu.

On Kadavu, every village and resort is completely isolated. There are no stores or restaurants. So there's not much flexibility. On Taveuni, you can always go to a grocery store or a restaurant, or take a taxi to a different beach for a swim/snorkle, or choose between several dive operators (we liked Jewel Bubble Divers).

I've heard many firsthand reports that Bligh Waters / Vatu-i-Ra diving is better than either Kadavu or Taveuni.

 

[donacheson]

I'm tired of quarries and lakes and dry suits, and a certain frequent-flier bonus is looking too good to pass up, so I'm scheduled to go to Fiji for just under two weeks in late October.

After filtering an overload of info, I'm considering diving for about five days at Kadavu/Matava, then going back to Viti Levu and heading for one of the backpacker-type hotels at Nananu-I-Ra for perhaps another five days of diving.

After days of intensive Internet research, I still have questions. And some concerns after reading Nikkyo's recent post.

Though I'm an experienced diver, I'll be traveling (and I assume diving) essentially alone this trip, and I'm a bit apprehensive about it. I haven't been buddyless since I was a new diver in the keys. Is my solo status likely to be a problem at the places I'm considering? And are solo women treated reasonably well?

When people talk about Fiji's currents, are they akin to a brisk ride in Cozumel? Or stronger?

I don't mind spending good money on diving, but I'm often a little cheap when it comes to lodgings and food. Does anyone know how the dorm thing generally works in most places in Fiji? Are they segregated by gender? I'm also apprehensive about leaving my dive gear alone anywhere that others might have access to it. Should I be thinking, "avoid dorm arrangements?"

The things I'm looking for are:

Good diving (this will be my first trip to Fiji, and my only previous exposure to diving that side of the world has been a PNG liveaboard--so I guess that means my standards are both low and high). I'd love to see a manta or two. I like seeing the occasional shark but that's never a primary draw. Mostly I just want beauty and lots of life. And since I'm going to be alone, I don't want it to be super hard. I'd like to be able to do a couple of night dives, and maybe even some shore dives--or at least shore snorkeling.

Accommodations that are reasonably secure and not expensive, ideally friendly and welcoming for someone who's not in their 20s or even 30s anymore.

Does my itinerary sound sound? Any tweaks, suggestions or additions? Should I be considering Taveuni or some other spot over Kadavu? Am I likely to be glad I chose Fiji over a Cayman liveaboard?

All helpful input welcome.

I can't address your uncertainty about Kadavu/Matava since I've never been there and I can't speak about backpacker facilities anywhere, but I have a lot of experience (more than 100 dives) with diving in the Bligh Water with Crystal Divers and Kai Viti Divers. First, don't worry about being buddyless; you can dive with a guided group with Kai Viti Divers or, if they're satisfied with your skills, dive without a guide. I know Kai Viti Divers offers night dives, but requires a minimum of 6 divers to go. I have no idea about shore diving or schnorkelling in Fiji.

As for currents, they can be challenging. Both "inshore" and "channel" (Vatu i Ra, the channel between the 2 big islands Viti Levu and Vanua Levu) sites are subject to current, but it appeared to me that Kai Viti Divers attempts to avoid strong current dives unless they're doing a drift dive. However, expect to have to work against a current for a short time during some dives; that's when lots of fish and the big predators - sharks, jacks, and tuna - are out hunting. Bring a reef hook.

Go for it! The hard corals on top of some bommies and the soft corals on the sides can be fantastic and on some sites, the variety and number of fish is amazing.

 

[Wiggsy]

Hi all,

I have a new favourite spot in Fiji. My first trip to Fiji was honeymoon diving at The Coral Coast (everyone's gotta start somewhere!) That was where the love affair with Fiji began. Since then, I've run 6 trips to Kadavu (diving at Matava Resort; Dive Kadavu and Nagigia Island); 2 trips to Wananavu, Raki Raki; and 2 trips to Naigani(which up until 3 weeks ago I ranked as my personal favourite). Naigani has brilliant diving and a superb location with top dive sites only five minutes away from the white sand beach.
But now I've been to Beqa and I'll be going back. We stayed at Beqa Lagoon Resort - it won "World's Best Dive Resort" in 2002 as voted by SCUBA DIVER mag; and the way I see it, its only got better since then. This was the best dive resort I've ever been to - great service and the friendliest staff with superb 5 star gourmet meals. Swordfish steaks in macadamia sauce followed by Chocolate souffles! And all presented like a first class restaurant - I've never been anywhere before where my group took photos of the food and then would look at it smugly, before reluctantly destroying the wonderful presentation! And a full service dive operation where you don't lift a tank or change a BCD (unless you're anally retentive and insist on doing such things!)
The diving was fantastic - the best soft corals and the biggest gorgonian fans I have ever seen - we dived a seamount threee hours out to sea (where we later gamefished and caught a 28 kilo Wahoo.) We had 50 metre vis; turtles all over the place and gorgonians that 4 divers could disappear behind! But most dive sites are only 30 minutes from the resort - so 2 dives each morning before lunch back at the resort. Beqa'a also easy to get to - a 2.5 hour coach trip from Nadi followed by a 3/4 hour boat trip - so no need to overnight in Nadi or pay through the nose for expensive inter-island flights.
And this was actually than Kadavu (where we went 2005); Naigani or Wananavu! We had 10 boat dives for $200 (AUD)!
I've got a second group of 23 going beack there in the September hols - wish I was going too!

Wiggsy

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[rickydazla]

I opened and ran the dive shop for Reef Safari at Nananu Island Lodge in 2003 and still visit regularly. It is a backapcker resort primarily but caters for anyone looking to get away on their own and do things a little differently. You'll be looking at F$20 a night in a dorm and if you stay for any longer than a night or two and/or intend to do a fair bit of diving then they will almost certainly accomodate you in one of their 4 bed dorms. There is lots of land there and there are plenty of places to escape from the early 20's crowd if loud music and circle-of-death drinking games aren't your thing.

Fijians have a different sense of ownership to us in the west and personal possessions are seen as being communal. Although they now realise after years of knuckle-wrapping that people don't like having their **** taxed they are still penchant to items that are left out in the open. Basically, if you REALLY don't want it taken, don't bring it. If you have to bring it then simply be prudent. Give it to reception and they will lock it up. Dive gear is safe.

At F$20 a night for what I beleive is reasonable accomdation with reasonable self catering facilities and reasonable food at a reasonable price (F$15 for buffet dinner) even if you don't want to cook (Sashi, the their big cross-dressing chef whips up a great chilli chicken) I would take this option over a package deal to Taveuni Garden Island or Beqa Lagoon Resort every time... Value for money.

You can handle the currents - I have taken OW divers on their first open water dives on sites in the Bligh Waters and intro divers on their first ever dives in the same places. I wish mine had been as good! There are currents but the operators in this area know these sites and wouldn't put you in any unecessary danger. It's all about the moon...

Peace


Rick

 

[rickydazla]

http://www.nananuislandlodge.com/
relax@nananuislandlodge.com
Glenn is the manager. He also runs the dive shop.

 

[Ms. Ann Thrope]

Thanks for all the Nananu-I-Ra and Kadavu info, and keep it coming if you've got it! I'm leaning toward swapping out Kadavu for Taveuni--Kadavu is sounding kind of logistically/infrastructurally challenging, which, in theory, I don't mind, but in practice I often do. Any Taveuni tips in addition to Jewel Bubble divers?

Also, it sounds like October is sort of the shoulder season between high/low and wet/dry. Are things quiet enough that I can probably do most of my business on a walk-in basis?

Thanks.