how to build your own (cheap) light canister...

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ssdiver2003

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due to the many requests that i had received,i will give you all out there the instructions on how i had built my light canister...
BUT FIRST OF ALL I HAVE TO THANK " P A D I P R O" FOR THE PICS AND A FEW TIPS...THANK YOU MY MAN :) !!!

here we go...
all items were purchased at our CANADIAN TIRE Store(comparable to HOME DEPOT)...

4 inch pvc piping @ 2 feet length -6.00$
2 endcaps (one on the bottom the other on as lid) -5.00$
2 brass fittings (plumbing section) 4.50$
6 feet of exterior electrical wire -3.65$
1 50W halogen bulb -3.59$
1 toggle switch (from my old flashlight) -free
1 set of trailer connector-plug -3.55$
2 12V-3.4amp batt. -28.00$ each(thats the worst part)
1 maglite flashlight -free (buy one on E-BAY for 5.00$)
2 suitcase latches (works as well as the other ones though)-4.00$
1 pack of 1/4 rivets -2.99$
1 O-ring 4 inches OD -2.00$
1 pack of 4 connectors or shoes -2.59$
1 brass handle -2.99$
and thats pretty much it though...

here is how i did it...
take one endcap and put a ring of silicone into the inside corner(this will be your bottom piece). put the tube inside your endcap and tap it down on top with a hammer to ensure tight fit and a good connection with the silicone.
let dry for about 48 hours....
take the other cap(which is your lid) and drill a hole in the centre to fit your 1st brass fitting.once in,put some silicone around it to ensure a good watertight seal.
drill another hole toward the outside to fit your switch,again,might wanna use some silicone...
let dry...
take a piece of plywood and cut to size (4 inches wide and 10 inches long,or so) place the battery on top and mark with pencil around it. cut out with a saw.now fit your batt. inside the cut out,and test fit the construction into your tube.
once you ensure a good tight fit,connect your batt. with some wire and the to your toggle switch...
take the mag light and place the halogene bulb were the original one was, should fit exactly.cut of the tappered end just below the switch and glue the head back on to the light.use metal epoxy !!!seal with silicone ,including a light beat around were your plastic lense is.cut a hole into the bottom piece of the batt. to fit your 2nd brass fitting. again,silicone it.
cut your wire to desired lenght and place the other ends of the fittings on both ends of the wire.connect the wire ends to the lid and the flashlight end and connect them tightly.AT THAT POINT,YOUR BULB IS ALREADY CONNECTED AND SO IS YOUR WIRE TO THE SWITCH.
connect to battery and test run your cannister....SHOULD WORK SO FAR...
once the silicone is dry,fit your battery into the tube,put the rest of the wiring inside it and secure the battery with a piece of scrap wood so it wont slide back and forth inside the tube.
now place your lid onto the top and and press it al the way down(dont forget the big O-ring inside the lid!!!) and install the suitcase latches. i used pop-rivets...works well,at least they dont come loose...again,use some silicone too.
and last,place your handle in centre of tube outside and mount...go over the whole project and make sure you have siliconed everything...AND THATS IT !!!
NOW I REALIZE THAT SOME OF YOU HAVE OTHER IDEAS AND EVEN MAYBE BETTER SOLUTIONS FOR DIFF. THINGS,BUT, I CAN HONESTLY SAY, IT TOOK ME 2 DAYS TO BUILD,AND UNDER 150$...PLUS IIIIIIII ACCOMPLISHED IT, SO I DONT GIVE A RATS WHAT "SHE" LOOKS LIKE,AS LONG AS "SHE" DOES THE TRICK...

THANK YOU VERY MUCH (padipro)

:wink:

ps: will post the pictures a little later
 
A word of advise from someone with experience. Go to Canadain Tire and buy a toggle switch with a DC rating of 1 HP. Most light switches are only rated for 1/4 HP.

Halogen bulbs have a cold resistance of almost zero, and raises as the bulb comes up to temperature.

This means the inrush current on a 50 watt bulb can easily be 50 amps, or 10X rated. This can/will either fry your switch contacts, or weld them on permanently.

We built 3 cannisters lights, and it happened on two before we changed them all.

Mike D
 
My pleasure.

Post some pics when you get them. I'm always interested in seeing how others lights turned out.


Scott
 
Now this sounds like a really cool DIY project, as I justs priced up a few canister lights and ... well they are kind of expensive ... like they cost the same as a BC and then some...

Are the pictures available? If you need a host to put them up let me know would be happy to do so.
 
Here's the link to the pics of the light I built.

DIY Can Light

Scott
 
Hey Padipro,

I just looked at your photos of the canister lights that you built and am really impressed. Obviously you've had some design and machining experience.

I'm inspired to build a similar light and have sourced all components other than the waterproof rotary switch.

Where did you get your switch? (Part number would be useful if you have it.)

Thanks.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
I worked aircraft structural repair for years so I'm used to designing and building things. Besides that I just like making things myself, kind of a hobby of mine.

The switch is just a single poll, single through mil-spec switch. I got it from Kilby Enterprises, it's part number MS24523-22. The part that looks like a rotary knob is actually a switch gaurd. You can see the same type of gaurd on most name brand lights. I made it from a short piece of 1" diameter PVC pipe and then using PVC glue attached it to the top of the lid around the switch. The switch toggle is covered with a water proof rubber boot you can get from just about any marine store or even Radio Shack. I then filled the base of the gaurd with silicon sealant up to the top of the base of the rubber boot for some added water proofing.

Take a look at the attached picture to see the whole thing.

If you have anymore questions just PM me and I'l be glad to answer them.

Scott
 
Doh!
I hadn't thought of just putting a guard around a toggle.


Thanks for the quick response and the link.

Now, off to the shop.
 
Build I say, build!

Scott
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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