Tank blower-outerer (or dryer)

[OMyMyOHellYes]

This sprung from another thread, but I thought I'd share as it was a different approach from what was being discussed and provides more application flexibility. I'll include the original post that this sprung from at the end.

For my shop needs I have eliminated the shop compressor and moved to a scuba tank-based setup now (helps rationalize my excess used-tank buying compulsion).

Easy (turn a knob), quick (no waiting on compressor to pressurize its tank), portable (no power extension cord - just lug a tank - I'll use a smaller bottle if a full 80 is too much to tote), flexible (I get pretty much any shop use for compressed air except driving pneumatics from this setup). (caution - not recommended - air coming out is around 140 psi depending on reg IP setup so you have to know what you are doing at the other end of the hose to not over pressurize or hurt yourself or your things - do not do this.) Drawback is that I'm limited to tank size or number of tanks on hand - I keep the hot bottle and a full spare in the rack right beside it for fast switches.

Hardware needed (links are just what I used, can often be found elsewhere, maybe for less:

• A functioning regulator (I like the convenience of the button SPG so I know when I'm gonna need to swap tanks)
• a 1/4" NPT M-F-F tee fitting
• a 3/8" LP reg fitting to 1/4" male NPT fitting LP Port 1/4" NPTF
• Popoff valve (pressure relief) Pressure Relief Valve with Toggle, 185 psi
• standard shop airline QD fitting (male) Quick Disconnect Coupler - 1/4" NPT Male
• Teflon thread tape

The result:

For deep blowing (drying) tanks, there's this off the shelf item:

• 48 inch blow gun https://www.northerntool.com/products/ironton-48in-air-blow-gun-broom-45972 (aluminum so can just use a tubing cutter to shorten if you wish - I think 28" is about right)

Seed thread:

Rust (streaks?) in steel tanks

Here it is after a little more using the whip from scuba tools. I have only gotten rid of some of the dust by putting the cylinders upside down. Tomorrow I'll blow out a but then take it to get vipped/filled. I'm definitely past the point of no return. I'll have another batch of tanks that may...

scubaboard.com

 

[-JD-]

Pop that environmental seal and adjust it down to 120psi if you want. takes 2 minutes. Or much better, put a compact secondary "standard" shop air regulator before your airline QC that you can adjust to the task needs on the fly.

You can do "better", but for < $7 it is not much risk to try:

150 PSI Air Compressor Regulator Kit with Dial Gauge

Amazing deals on this 150Psi Air Compressor Regulator With Dial Gauge at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

You can get over-pressure relief valves that thread right into an unused LP port on the reg: $5, buy a spare in case in fails in the future.

Over-Pressure Relief Valve (User Adjustable)

The over pressure relief valve (OPV) screws into any available first stage low pressure port and provides protection from first stage failure.

www.divegearexpress.com

Only real downside is you need to depressurize through the attached equipment.




To make it all a bit more compact, you could probably tuck the secondary regulator "down" along the shoulder off the closest LP port on the bottom. I would be tempted to run a short "whip" hose down to the bottom of the cylinder with the QC on the end and bungee it there for stability purposes - that minimizes tipping force.


As for the tank blower ....
This is a time where what some/many might call "Junk" is sufficient to the task since all you really are looking for is a long nozzle: 24", $5

Air Blow Gun with 2 ft. Extension

Amazing deals on this Air Blow Gun With 2Ft Extension at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[OMyMyOHellYes]

Reworking the config now. just waiting on a fitting from DECA Diving or NE Scuba.

I'm a tool snob and found Ingersoll Rand industrial offers an inline regulator made in S Korea that fits and works well for my application. Amazon has what appears to be the some thing under the "Pneumatics Plus" name - also noting source as "S. Korea" - I'm guessing the same plant and assembly line.

I did the Northern tool 48" blower and shortened tube to 29". That may be a tiny bit long, but I can trim long, I can't un-trim short.

For now, I did one of the crap OPR pop-offs from @DGX (their term, not mine) in a LP port and a plain old bike tire Schraeder valve in another LP hole for bleed off (kind of redundant as use will likely only include air gun and tire chuck - and I can always manually release them. It's a just-in-case-I-do-something-stupid thing.

Once I get everything installed I'll repost a new and improved picture.

 

[OMyMyOHellYes]

OK - This is a much more satisfying setup, even if more complicated. It will simplify working the other end of the hose - making it easier and safer. The configuration is even a little more compact and feels more "protected".

Changes:

• Replaced the toggle-lever pop-off/bleed valve with cheapo OPR from DGX and addition of Schraeder valve to bleed if needed (not really likely as I could always manage to push a blow gun onto the quick disconnect and drain it that way, but I had the fitting left over from before and the Schrader valves were cheap); it may go away at some point if it is in the way).
• Added: in-line flow regulator so I'm not just spewing air at the 140# IP. Makes airing tires to a set inflation point super easy,

 

[happy-diver]

You may contemplate using something with recoil and blow out your tanks with something that actually blows