I Cut It

[Thadmn]

There are swage fittings available for low pressure hose applications. They're much more reliable, and professional looking. I have a few on my LP hoses for my rebreather. There's a place called Custom Fittings, and I thing Oxychek sells them as well.

 

[cool_hardware52]

There are swage fittings available for low pressure hose applications. They're much more reliable, and professional looking. I have a few on my LP hoses for my rebreather. There's a place called Custom Fittings, and I thing Oxychek sells them as well.

Field assemblies for LP hoses work fine, but the subject of this thread is corrugated hoses........

Tobin

 

[idive2]

The 6 inch hose from Northeast Scuba Supply was the wrong internal diameter. John was shocked to find this out. When I shipped it back to him, he helped me with something else I needed at the time. I will try ordering this again, I just have not gotten around to it yet.

Any idea of what the inside diameter of that hose was ? I have an older dacor bc with a 16 inch hose and i have always wanted to go with something a bit shorter, maybe 12 inches which is enough to clear my LS d-ring. I was told the threads on the bc are something other than standard but i think the hose diameter might be more standard ?

 

[cool_hardware52]

I was told the threads on the bc are something other than standard but i think the hose diameter might be more standard ?

The id of corrugated hoses differ. Look at an "AirII" etc. kit, they have a selection of bushings to accommodate different hose diameters.

What's preventing you from removing your current hose and measuring the fitting diameters?

Tobin

 

[PfcAJ]

I have been talking with an instructor in FL about taking Fundies. I asked for the DIR stance on a six inch corrugated hose. The instructor said that the "recommendation" is an eleven to thirteen inch hose. The only reason he had was for ease of oral inflation. When I answered that I could easily orally inflate with the shorter hose, he told me that he would evaluate all pieces of my gear when I took the class and give reasons why/ why not to have things laid out in a certain fashion. He also seemed intrigued by the idea or a shorter hose and said that he would allow that one item to be dove with before I changed anything to see how it worked.

Maybe the shorter hose will become the new standard ...not likely, but here is hoping.

The slightly longer hose is better for scootering where you need to inflate your drysuit and wing at the same time. It needs to be able to reach the inflater button on your suit.

This is especially useful when there are dramatic depth changes.

 

[idive2]

What's preventing you from removing your current hose and measuring the fitting diameters? Tobin

Two beautifully placed and secured zip ties ! I just did a quick search and looks like
most corrugated hoses for standard (non air II) inflators are 1". Another dimension that
is important though is how far into the hose the 1" diameter goes before it
reduces to the diameter of the air flow tubes overall length. Most inflators have a
small barb type ridge that the hose needs to go completely over to be properly secured.
I was just wondering if this was the problem the original poster ran into with his replacement
corrugated hose.

 

[FireInMyBones]

The slightly longer hose is better for scootering where you need to inflate your drysuit and wing at the same time. It needs to be able to reach the inflater button on your suit.

This is especially useful when there are dramatic depth changes.

I have never even considered this to be an option. It makes sense. [sm]I learn something new everyday.[/sm]

 

[ScubaVideo]

Sorry to wake up an old thread, but if no adhesive works for this situation, what are the manufacturers using? I found this thread searching for that glue.

I've pulled off a few in my diving career and they have been glued. Just today I swapped out one on my BP/W and it took me some time to pull it off. Maybe it's just an expander that fills the gaps and made pulling it tough? The glue remains on the inside of the corrugated hose and I can peel it off - just like rubber cement. It is stuck much better, but removable on the inflator and wing neck.

I will ask the shop tomorrow since they installed it.

I talked to the shop today and they said they use silicone. But the best thing is to use two zip ties.

 

[divin'dog]

Be aware that the material used to mold most corrugated hoses is a blend of polypropylene and natural rubber.

Polypropylene is very difficult to glue to anything. Many adhesive dispensers are made from polypro precisely because most adhesives don't adhere.

Take a bit of your glue and spread it on the piece of hose you removed. After it cures I'll bet you can peel it right off.

Becareful,

Tobin

If the hose is a blend of polypro and rubber, try scuffing the 2 surfaces to be joined with 50-80 grit sandpaper to give the glue something to "bite" onto. Then try some adhesives meant for rubber products (rubber cement?). Some adhesives work by attacking the surface being glued... not too much will attack polypro or rubber. So by scuffing the surfaces, you will be doing what the glue won't do... sort of.

I don't know what the setup looks like, but to reduce failure point percentage, I would try something like pinning it with a small diameter SS pin (.060 dia)... possibly drilling through the entire setup, inserting the pin, then peen it over. Add zip ties for additional insurance.

Good luck!

 

[cool_hardware52]

If the hose is a blend of polypro and rubber, try scuffing the 2 surfaces to be joined with 50-80 grit sandpaper to give the glue something to "bite" onto. Then try some adhesives meant for rubber products (rubber cement?). Some adhesives work by attacking the surface being glued... not too much will attack polypro or rubber. So by scuffing the surfaces, you will be doing what the glue won't do... sort of.

I don't know what the setup looks like, but to reduce failure point percentage, I would try something like pinning it with a small diameter SS pin (.060 dia)... possibly drilling through the entire setup, inserting the pin, then peen it over. Add zip ties for additional insurance.

Good luck!

Why bother when two zip ties has proven to be very secure and avoid all the issues of glue peeling off off and fouling the OPV?

Tobin