I NEED (want) a non corrosive dive knife

[SangP]

Hi,

I would have recommended the Akona CoQui knife but 304 steel or 300 series steel just don't hold a cutting edge well. My el cheapo Victorinox paring knife cuts the webbing soooo much better.

But I think the Remora and the Fusilier with 420 series steel should hold an edge much better. But I think I rather get the Server or use my el cheapo blade.

Cheers,

SangP

 

[pipedope]

There are several factors in edge holding.

First is the hardness of the metal, copper and bronze are not so good because they are very soft.

Most of the metals that are really hard enough to hold an edge either corrode rapidly or are too brittle for a dive knife.

One other factor is sharpening.

If you just sharpen with a stone they you are leaving a significan burr on the edge. The burr will cut but will rapidly fold over and then the knife is dull again.

A well sharpened knife stropped to remove the burr will stay sharp much longer than the same knife without stropping.

You can make your own strop.
Take a board a little wider than the blade length and about a foot or more long. Cover it with leather.
Now go buy a can of "rubbing compound" the one I have is from Turtle Wax, cost less than $2 at WallMart and is a lifetime supply.

Now spread a small amount of the rubbing compound on the leather. It only takes a little.

Now, once you have the edge stoned to a good edge use the strop.
On a strop you stroke away from the cutting edge. Hold the angle the same as you did with the stone. Alternate sides and keep going until there is no burr. The edge will also be nice and shiny except on the very apex of the cutting point where a shiny spot is a ding.

There is a little more to it but this should get you started.

 

[ArcticDiver]

Ever consider one of the ceramic or composite material knives like are sold in sporting goods catalogs? Never used one for diving but they seem to have a good reputation in both the marine and sporting world.

 

[THellURider]

Ever consider one of the ceramic or composite material knives like are sold in sporting goods catalogs? Never used one for diving but they seem to have a good reputation in both the marine and sporting world.

I did actually. Boker makes a great one, only they aren't the strongest of blades. I've seen one slapped hard on a counter and shatter.

I ordered a Fusilier, I'll post a review once I get it.

 

[willydiver]

There are several factors in edge holding.

You can make your own strop.

Pipedope, I made a strop just like you described, a few years ago and it works great. It'll put a razor edge on a blade. I use jewelers rouge on mine.

WD

 

[Chad_Ordelheide]

I have a Underwater Kinetic Blue Tang Titanium. I like it, but I can't say I've put it to a lot of use yet. Titanium needs to shapened by someone who knows what they are doing though!!

 

[AtomicWalrus]

Titanium is your best choice for a corrosion-resistant knife material. Commercial-grade alpha titanium is truly corrosion-resistant in salt water - pricey, but it will not corrode. Just about any stainless steel is going to experience corrosion in salt water. You can prevent the unsightly rust patches from forming on the blade by rinsing thoroughly after dives and coating the knife with silicone, but it's hard to avoid the microscopic pitting of the cutting edges that eventually dulls the blade. You can take care of that issue with regular sharpening, though. Then again, is all the extra maintenance worth the price difference between the stainless steel and titanium versions of a dive knife?

One last note: if you're going for stainless steel, it's worth going for the UK Hydralloy models instead of the more common 440 stainless. I had a UK Remora knife that held up extremely well to salt water immersion without much more maintenance required than rinsing & occasionally re-coating it with silicone grease. Sadly, it got lost while I was getting dragged up onto a beach as a "victim" while assisting with a rescue course.