Ikelite Housing Questions

[Phil TK]

I have a nice new Ikelite housing for my PC1000 -and some questions for fellow vidogs who own similar housings.

1.The housing seems massively positive -even with the lead weighted foot fixed on. Where are people adding additional lead to get the thing approaching negative? I'm thinking of maybe just duct taping some shot around the base, also do I use the housing with the 'foot' or is the foot just for supporting the housing out of the water?

2. There's plenty of room inside the housing for a silica gel pack but what adhesive is safe to use on the polycarbonate shell -I'd like to add a blob of glue to stop the pack moving about.

3. What are those handturn knobs at both ends of each handle for? I think I could take these off and add some drilled lead discs to the bolts and screw them down under the knobs-should trim the housing nicely but I'd love to know what they are really for.

4. Does anyone use a Inon wide angle, I'm about to spend a small fortune on one for this housing and wondered what peopkle thought and if there where alternatives.

Any other tips on specific Ikelite foibles gratefully received
Many thanks
Phil TK

 

[ronrosa]

I
4. Does anyone use a Inon wide angle, I'm about to spend a small fortune on one for this housing and wondered what peopkle thought and if there where alternatives.

Any other tips on specific Ikelite foibles gratefully received
Many thanks
Phil TK

I have the Inon wide angle lens on my Gates housing. The lens itself works great, but it will balance your housing front heavy. It attaches to my housing with a half twist wet bayonet connection. I hear the threaded connection is not as easy underwater.

I have some footage shot with the lens in my Aruba and Kona videos.

 

[xSandman3]

My Ikelite is at least a few lbs. negative, and at times feels like a brick. If adding lead, try and get it balanced so it stays level without having to fight it.

 

[simonspear]

I'm really surprised to hear that the pc1000 housing is very buoyant - the housing for the pc350 that I have is just about perfect underwater - slightly neg but fairly close to neutral. If you are going to add weight then I would definately try to add them to the base - anywhere else and you'll possibly mess up the balance of your whole housing.

Gelpacks can be attached with masking tape. I've found it easy to get off and it sticks quite nicely.

The wingnuts on the handles are there for attaching lights etc. Make sure they are nice and tight - I've lost a few when underwater already as they can work themselves loose.

I have the Epoque WA lens and I'm very happy with it. However as Ron said with the Ike housing it's a bit of a pig to put on in the dry let alone underwater. Basically you have to decide before the dive (even before you get on the boat) if you are going to use it or not. You can take it off during a dive easy enough, but you'll need to take lens caps down with you so you don't scratch the lenses. I don't even attempt to put it on underwater anymore.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Simon

 

[Phil TK]

I have the Epoque WA lens and I'm very happy with it. However as Ron said with the Ike housing it's a bit of a pig to put on in the dry let alone underwater.

Thanks for the advice.
A good way to locate difficult threads on lenses is to offer up the lens to the port and rotate it half a turn anti-clockwise to begin with, this squares up the thread and when you turn it clockwise it should screw in easily. I learnt this technique from a motorcycle magazine, it's a method used to square up hard to locate spark plugs to their holes/threads -it works
BTW, do you leave the foot thing on the housing underwater?
Phil TK

 

[simonspear]

The thread on the lens and the housing is very very very fine and delicate. It's not just a question of reverse screwing to begin with to get it to line up - I wish it was that easy!! Take a look at the thread on your Ike housing to see what you are up against. It's not impossible, but it is very difficult especially if you don't want to damage the thread on either the lens or the housing.

... and yeah I leave the base on the housing when underwater - it's where the weight is held on my particular model - without it, it would be very buoyant.

Cheers, Simon

 

[divezero]

I agree

 

[Phil TK]

The thread on the lens and the housing is very very very fine and delicate. It's not just a question of reverse screwing to begin with to get it to line up - I wish it was that easy!! Take a look at the thread on your Ike housing to see what you are up against. It's not impossible, but it is very difficult especially if you don't want to damage the thread on either the lens or the housing.

... and yeah I leave the base on the housing when underwater - it's where the weight is held on my particular model - without it, it would be very buoyant.

Cheers, Simon

I see what you mean Simon, fortunately my WA will spend most of its time on the housing and I'll not need to remove it/screw it on underwater. I can't imagine the hassle of crossthreading the thing -I'll be taking extra care.
The housing is indeed not far off negative -with the base on of course -I initiallywondered why the base was quick detachable, thinking that this meant it was removed before entering the water.
It's all coming together now, I've even christened it by cutting a finger on the catches yesterday! -they are much more awkward to operate than my Sea & Sea housing.
Phil TK

 

[simonspear]

Watch those catches - they like to gobble up fingers!! ..but at least they are good at keeping out the water

The only other thing I should mention is that if you intend to keep the WA lens on all the time you may get some salt and debris build up between the back of the lens and the housing lens. I'm pretty sure it lets water into this area, but without looking I can't be 100%.

Either way you'll love the lens once it's on!

Cheers, Simon

 

[larsdennert]

You could test using an ankle weight clipped around the shoe.

The port is plastic, as are the threads. Be gentle.