Inon Z240 - too complicated - any alternatives?

[MermaidLaura]

I have a Canon G16 as my point and shoot and a Canon 600D as my DSLR. I use one INON Z240 as I don't dive in conditions where I can shoot WA.

The INON is driving me crazy.

I am so stressed with all the settings (I like to shoot on M and AV, mostly M because I shoot macro and like black backgrounds). I know with M I can't use the STTL on the Inon because the Canon does not pre-flash in manual. I keep forgetting to press the button in, I can never get the settings (strength) on the dial right... then when I switch over to AV, I keep forgetting to switch over to STTL. I absolutely hate this strobe.

I am not a lazy photographer, I just want to concentrate on my camera settings and composition and forget (to a certain degree) about strobe.

Am I the only one who hates the Z240?

Should I sell it and get something else, bearing in mind the canon does not pre-flash in M and that I want to be able to use optic fibre cables (I have a Fantastea housing for the G16 and a Sea and Sea RDX for the DSLR).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to making the Inon easier to use - or can anyone advise me of another strobe?

Thank you

 

[Interceptor121]

Never use the TTL of your camera use the one of the strobe.
I use the following settings for Z240/Canons
Camera:
1. Shoot manual all times
2. flash set to manual power to minimum
Z240:
1. Advanced cancel circuit pushed in
2. for macro or shots where you are close can can point the strobe to the subject set dial 1 to AUTO and dial two to match the camera aperture
3. if and when you aim the strobes away from the subject (no flash return) set inon to manual and match aperture as a starter

To achieve the same settings of your Av mode is easy in manual set ISO 100 Shutter 1/60 aperture what you want it to be as canon camera always shoot at 1/60 in Av mode at wide end

Changing strobes will not make anything better you will only have less choice, on a sea and sea the power knob works the same and the first knob has no preflash (manual mode cancel circuit off on Z240) - slave (manual mode cancel circuit on Z240) or ttl (TTL normal on Inon)
The sea and sea strobes will lack the S-TTL low (not useful on canon anyway but useful on other brands) and the AUTO (extremely useful with canon as this gives you TTL in manual mode that you don't get on other brands)

If you want to sell it cheap I will buy it

 

[James R]

OP - you could be the only one. I love my Z240 strobes

Great advice above. No reason to use Av mode really, as you can replicate those settings if you want them. Usually 1/60 is a bit slow in my experience.

 

[Hatul]

OP - you could be the only one. I love my Z240 strobes

Great advice above. No reason to use Av mode really, as you can replicate those settings if you want them. Usually 1/60 is a bit slow in my experience.

I'm no expert but I also think 1/60 is a bit slow as there is just too much motion under water and there is some exposure from ambient/focus light when the strobe is off. When shooting without flash I get sharper pictures at 1/100 so I think it affect photos with flash on as well.

 

[Interceptor121]

Av 1/60 is good at ISO 200 to show a water column but usually in those conditions you don't shoot TTL. When you use TTL you Are at 1/125+ hence av mode is useless

 

[MermaidLaura]

Oh thanks so much Interceptor!

I guess this is one of those cases of operator error!

will give your advice a try at the weekend.


thank you

 

[Interceptor121]

Let me know how you get on

 

[KeithG]

I suggest you simplify your life by sticking to 1 mode. Flipping back and forth between modes takes work and is an opportunity for error. Since you are fluent with manual, I suggest you stick with that.

if you reduce the amount of shutter and aperture adjustments life gets even easier.

Now the only strobe related issue is adjusting the power or the distance / angle to subject to alter the amount of light reaching it.

 

[Interceptor121]

I want to further expand on my previous post:
When I suggested to use the AUTO mode I have assumed the user can shoot either without diffuser or with the special AUTO diffuser. Shooting with the TTL diffuser that comes in the Z240 box will result in incorrect exposures.
If you only have the TTL diffuser and want to use a diffuser then the only mode available is Manual, consult the Z240 manual to understand the power settings and remember that to have a full blast you need to set mode to FULL not manual and max value

 

[Foxtrot16]

I have Sea & Sea YS110A strobes for my OMD EM-5 set up and find that they are simple and easy to use; however, they are no longer made so the DS-1 is available.

The Sea & Sea strobes are simple to use, there is a setting for pre-flash, no pre-flash and TTL - so depending on your camera you select the setting required - in your case no pre-flash.

You can then manually set your strobes to adjust your power to get the amount of light you require.

Here is what my setup looks like -

I use my camera in full manual mode - that is manual for the camera and manual for the strobes as I don't like TTL.

I have also made home made snoots to help me get the black backgrounds I like - as I dive in poor vis conditions the water isn't the best so I find the black backgrounds more pleasant.

This is what my snoots look like -

I have also made some fibre optic adaptors for the snoots -

To get good black backgrounds my common settings are Aperture is F11 - F16, Shutter speed between 1/100 or 1/125 and the ISO set at 100. On the strobes I usually have them set at 1/2 to 2/3rds power.

Here are some examples of what I am getting:

With snoots



Without



With the fibre optic adaptor -

I highly recommend the Sea & Sea strobes and I find them easy to use.

Hope this helps.

Karl