Is there a way to take off DIN inlet port without a vise?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

BTW - thing of beauty.... (still needs a vise)

upload_2021-8-2_19-20-25.png
 
Here's what you do. You need some tools and maybe a clamp, so if you don't have that, it won't help you. But it might help others and IMO it's better than a vise for holding 1st stages.

Basically what you are going to make is a long skinny box (cage, really) out of 1X3 lumber. The interior chamber of this box needs to snugly fit the body of your MK20/25 (whichever it is, so roughly 4" long by 1.25"--take your own measurements!). Then you slip the body of the reg in this box, with the DIN fitting sticking out. Then clamp the box to a workbench, and you will be able to apply enough torque to the fitting with a 6mm allen key socket and a decent size socket wrench, without marring up the regulator as can happen in a vise. SP DIN fittings are supposed to be torqued to around 20-22 ftlbs, which is pretty tight but not like lug nuts.

If that doesn't work, then you take every port plug out, the HP seat carrier out, and the turret off, and remove all the parts and o-rings you can, basically leaving the DIN fitting on the body. Then you put that in the freezer for several hours, then in simmering water for an hour or so, back in the freezer, back in the boiling hot water, and eventually you will be able to get that DIN retainer loose.

What sometimes happens is the threads on the DIN retainer get some salt water in them, the owner does not soak the reg well in fresh water after diving, the salt dries in the threads, and whammo it's stuck. This is where the freezing (which shrinks everything) and boiling water (which penetrates the threads) can help.
Do you ever use a mallet to hit the wrench to breakup the crystals?
 
I thought this can only be used with a vise!
Use it anyway you want.
One thing worth noting is that all of MK25's LP ports are on a swivel.
As has been mentioned, use the HP ports. The tool comes with both LP and HP threads. Remember, these are NPS treads and most regulators are plated brass. The tool should be fully seated so that the flat is tight against the regulator. This will prevent any thread distortion that could be caused by just using a bolt in that brass. Don't use a steel bolt.

Zeagle used to make a wooden box to plop their regs in for work like this. I have a few vises (lots of vices) that I like. One is a piece of 3/8" plate brass that I threaded with both LP and HP ports. I also use my end vise lined in wood for this kind of work. It won't mar the reg or put stress on the port threads and acts a lot like that box sold by Zeagle.
 
Do you ever use a mallet to hit the wrench to breakup the crystals?

No, but I have put a block of wood on the end of retainer and given a few sharp taps with a hammer. I don't know if it ever helped. The freeze/heat cycles do it every time. I just had a MK10 with a stuck DIN fitting and it worked great. It takes some time, and of course you have to rebuild the reg after you're done.

When I got the retainer off this MK10 it was nice and clean inside, no salt corrosion on the threads. Someone had just really torqued it down. Lots of enthusiastic, weight lifting strong men out there with wrench sets. :D
 
No, but I have put a block of wood on the end of retainer and given a few sharp taps with a hammer.
Tapping the Allen wrench with a hammer is a great idea. It's how impact drivers work. In fact, there is a handheld impact driver that is driven by a hammer that I use often. There's a bit of skill and a short learning curve in using it, but I find it invaluable with things don't want to budge. They're inexpensive and will help prevent buggaring up the hex inset.



Lots of enthusiastic, weight lifting strong men out there with wrench sets.
Yeah, it should always be kept in mind that when it comes to reg repair, we're working mostly with plated brass, which is pretty soft. Even worse, a lot of it is hollow, so it's easily damaged. If fit correctly, o-rings don't need a lot of torque to seal and they are almost always given a groove. When you achieve metal-to-metal contact, just give it a small skootch to lock it in place. This is true for tank valves down to hose fittings.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom