Layang Layang, Malaysia (Borneo)

[krnielse]

Hi all,
I am planning a trip to Borneo in August and am torn on dive site selection. Layang Layand is getting a good write-up, but I was always of the impression that Sipadan was the prime choice out there.

Anyone with experience or recommendations?

Tnx,
Kim

 

[OnTheSpot]

Hi Kim,

Both Layang Layang and Sipadan have their own highlights and attractions so I guess it depends what you are hoping to see.

We have put together some videos which might help you make up your mind - have a look at our Sipadan video and our Layang Layang video.

For many people, Layang Layang, with its limited number of guests and ease of diving is superior to Sipadan. Although the sheer biomass of fish at Sipadan is unrivalled.

Good luck with your plans.

 

[GrimSleeper]

Hi all,
I am planning a trip to Borneo in August and am torn on dive site selection. Layang Layand is getting a good write-up, but I was always of the impression that Sipadan was the prime choice out there.

Anyone with experience or recommendations?

Tnx,
Kim

Hi Kim,

Obviously I'm a little (well, a lot) spoiled, since I dive in the Solomons. However, I did spend five days diving at Layang Layang in 2007. Honestly? I've never felt so ripped off. Diving is expensive and had to be pre-paid (non-refundable), which is the only reason I actually did the 15 dives. We had two good dives and 13 very, very average (really quite dull) dives. There's a bit of a cattle-boat feel to the place - groups are lumped together 10 or 12 with a guide regardless of diver experience, with the dive op trying to make this less of a problem for their guides by threatening to ban customers from (pre-paid, non-refundable) dives if they break any of a string of rules. That said, the two dives where we saw schooling Hammerheads were awesome! I wouldn't go back, though - the diving is nowhere near as special as they claim it is and I just don't like being treated like livestock.

Sipadan I haven't dived. Be aware, though, that I've had customers through here this year who went on a week-long 'Sipadan' trip last year, all pre-paid, and only actually dived at Sipadan itself once, due to the restrictions on numbers. The rest of the week was spent muck-diving in Mabul. Great if you like critters, less good if you thought you were paying for huge schools of fish, loads of turtles, etc etc.

Please bear in mind that I'm only saying what happened to me at Layang Layang and what somebody told me first hand in the case of Sipadan. Plenty of other people will tell you that it's the best diving they've ever done, must-see, etc.

Wherever you end up, have a great trip!

Grae

 

[OnTheSpot]

A couple of bad experiences mentioned there from grimsleeper including his Layang Layang trip 3 years ago. I don't doubt any of what he says, but it is often a question of expectation and what you are used to. Layang Layang is a small remote island with an air strip, no natural beach and only 1 resort - not many similarities with the Solomons.

As grimsleeper rightly says you might hear from others that it was great, and we often do. We just received feedback from Asa Sandberg, Sweden to say 'our vacation was wonderful! We saw both hammer head sharks, whale shark, mantas and more!' She also rated the resort as 5 out of 5 and explained 'Everything, the flight, meals, diving and rooms worked perfectly. Everything was very well organised.'

1 person's 'well-organised' can be another's 'being treated like cattle with too many rules'. Also 1 swallow does not a summer make, so obviously 1 good review is not conclusive, but the same must be said of 1 bad review as above.

Here is a Layang Layang trip report- a first-hand account by Sheldon Hey from July 2008, if you are looking for more feedback.


As for Sipadan, yes there were plenty of unhappy people when the Sipadan permit arrangements first came into play. Expectations were not managed correctly and a lot of people felt they didn't get as much Sipadan as they were promised.

Now that is less the case. If you book through someone who knows the lay of the land and will give you an honest assessment of your frequency of diving Sipadan, then reality should meet with expectations. Some options give you a statistically better chance of diving Sipadan more frequently.

Booking without doing the research or through someone who doesn't know much about the place, is not the road to satisfaction

Cheers

 

[GrimSleeper]

I don't doubt any of what he says, but it is often a question of expectation and what you are used to. Layang Layang is a small remote island with an air strip, no natural beach and only 1 resort - not many similarities with the Solomons.

Hmmm. 'A small remote island with an air strip, no natural beach and only 1 resort' pretty much exactly describes where I'm at...

My problem with Layang Layang wasn't that I expected luxury, or amenities, or bars, or a thriving night-life, or anything else. My problem was that I was sold - and expected - world-class diving, and didn't get it. But, as I said before, that's just my opinion and I'm a spoilt brat when it comes to dive sites. Plenty of other people will have the best dives of their lives there. I'd just like to quietly suggest that it might not be the be-all and end-all of diving. But, then, I'm not trying to sell it to anyone!

Grae

 

[Roger J Munns]

I've worked on Layang Layang and done about 500+ dives there. It has its pro's and cons but on its day you can have the dive of your life. I think it is a bit of a 'marmite' destination, you either love it or hate it. Those who see the school of hammerheads tend to be the former

 

[Zippsy]

I agree with Roger entirely. I just came back from a liveaboard trip there this morning and yesterday's first dive, surrounded by hammerheads then having a flypast of 5 devil rays was what anyone might call a special dive. The earlier white tip passing a few meters away, the huge tornado of jacks and the school of bumpheads wrasse were almost forgotten. Last year, I was at the resort for five days and had realistic expectations. I only saw one HH on the very last day (which was very cool) but the rest of the dives could just be called "very good" dives with pristine hard coral covered reefs and plentiful larger marine life.

 

[The Wolf]

Comparing the Salomons and Layang Layang is a non starter for me.

I have only ever done Layang Layang twice in my life time and probably done Sipadan over 20 times in the last 10 years and frankly, as a diver, don't go with big expectations because disappointment can be a bitter pill to swallow.

I don't know if the layang layang company markets itself as a guaranteed to see this and that sorta thing, but I never went out there expecting to see hammer heads and rays 24/7. I knew it was seasonal and some element of bad luck/good luck would have its part in all this.

I would love to dive the salomons one day (am a WW2 buff) but its important people don't get their expectations up there.

Not that I am saying don't dive there.

For the most part, most people I know who have dived there keep coming back with wonderful experinces.

 

[facesofthesea]

I think the original poster of the question stated he/she was heading out there in August. The dive season is from February to October but the resort is open from March to August. If wanting hammerhead sightings, although never guaranteed you have better odds between March through May.
However again it would depend how long you want to visist for as I belive there are enough dive sites for 5 days, weather dependant.
Sipadan can be dived year round and yes there are high and low seasons but it is generally regarded that April to October are best times to visit.
I too have dived Sipadan a number of times and yes times have changed and moved on from the days when one could stay on the island and yes back then offered the best reef dive in the world. Now you have to generally stay at least 4 nights to be guaranteed a days diving (between 2 and 3 dives) on Sipadan. The rest of the time you will be diving Kapalai and Mabul.
Like previous divers have commented, do not go expecting to dive Sipadan every day, do not expect the world class dive site that it once was and you'll have a great time. For sure you can get much better deals going to Mabul or nearby islands. Fly with Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur into Tawau and a 1 hour drive to Semporna and another 45 min boat ride and you are on Mabul or other nearby resort.
Having dived both Layang Layang Island and Sipadan, I would probably chose Sipadan / Mabul for the better variety of diving and better value for money.
Do shop around or simply turn up at Kota Kinabalu or Semporna and get yourself a bargain.

Consider Mataking Island as they have nice accomodation and facilities and can also arrange Sipadan day trips.

Enjoy

facesofthesea
Stay in Style - Dive in Style

 

[ambertiger]

Hi I have dived both destinations. If you are planning to go in August then I would probably recommend Sipadan. If earlier in the year such as April or May I would say go to Layang Layang. Layang2 has IMO a greater diversity of marine life at every level then Sipadan. I would say that the reason for this is that Layang2 has been protected as a marine park for the past 15 years and all fishing on the reefs is prohibited. Sipadan is still fished on a daily basis by the Bajau people and others. Grouper and shark in particular are targeted as a food fish for restaurants in Tawau and KK. Sipadan has its profusion of turtles, I once counted over 50 on one dive, schooling jacks and whirling dervish barracuda. Layang2 has its brilliant diversity of marine life as well as Hammerheads in April~May, Jacks, Barracuda and Devil Rays. My only complaint about Layang2 is no EANx and bad fills, I consistently got tanks with 170~180bar. I actually made a fuss about this and they made an effort to change for our group but they weren't very happy about me bitching at them. The reason is they hot fill their tanks and why for god's sake do they not have nitrox?