Main difference in macro between compact and dslr?

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The DSLR's phase detection focusing is almost instantaneous, so you get your shot right away, no lens going back and forth on focus to find which way it should focus. It could even be set to continuous focus since it knows whether the subject went closer or farther away from the camera.

But with DSLR, you have to look into that tiny viewfinder, and if it is one of the lower end DSLR with a small pentaprism/mirror, the image is extremely small. It will get de-magnified (depending on the viewfinder attachment) to a tiny image so you can see it with your eyes 2 inches from the viewfinder. Some camera allows you to set to live-view, but it loses its phase detection autofocus mechanism, and many can use it only for composing the shot.
 
I don't know if I would use the word "artistic"... for macro shots, a small DOF is usually preferable because it highlights the main subject. Most macro shots with P&S and large DOF have the problem of a sharp background, which can be very distracting, and less professional looking.

Artistic is the word I would use. I know, I know.....shoot up, create negative space, emphasize the subject.....blah, blah. Sometimes I prefer a picture in which I can see the subject in its natural surroundings. This is more difficult to accomplish with the DSLR unless you are shooting "wide angle macro" or CFWA where you can get a close-up shot with a landscape behind it. With the P & S it is more the norm to have an inclusive picture. Part of the attraction of DSLRs and their various lenses is the ability to blur the background, but it has also been one of my disappointments in changing from a P & S to a DSLR. I know professional photographers who carry both, as a safety mechanism for that shot you might have missed because you were set up for wide or macro and for flexibility in getting the shot you really want.
 
The P & S has a large advantage in depth of field.

I would disagree with 'large advantage'. Stop down a 10mm DSLR lens and you get damn good DOF. But you're really on top of critters shooting that wide. I find a 60mm macro works very well for shooting.....macro! :D
 
For someone coming off a PnS system choosing what lens your going to carry down can be a challenge. Pick the macro and a pod of Dolphins swims by. Choose the WA and you are bound to see a really cool nudi. This to me makes shooting a PnS more appealing. That and the size.

OTOH if you nail the shot using a DSLR there is a lot you can do with that image.
 
That's why you need to be like David Doubilet and have a couple of camera sherpas with your basic prime lenses from 10 to 100 mm.
I have long since gotten over the worry that something will come along that I need a picture of that I can't get with my current setup. I mostly (99+44/100) shoot macro or supermacro. When the whale shark comes over (never happens) I look with awe, pee in my wetsuit then go back to shooting little stuff. I let the guys with skill shoot the reef scenes and the big stuff.

Bill
 
I don't think there is any one perfect system for everyone. All are compromises. All we can do is pick the one that best matches our own values. Here's a rough general view:

Cost: A good DSLR setup will cost $5000 and up. A smaller M43 system will cost $1500-3500. A compact system using a point and shoot will cost from $500-2000. These are of course rough numbers, but give the general idea. If I were picking a system, I would look at my budget first, and how much I would use it over it's limited life. If you dive every day, the answer might be different than if you dive once a year. For the infrequent diver who has expensive tastes, it might make more sense to rent a state of the art system as needed.

Image Quality: In competent hands, the DSLR system can give the best image quality, M43 second, compact third. But I said competent hands. The skill of the photographer is more important than the equipment. Most of the quality is up to you. If you look at the pictures here on Scubaboard, you will see great photos from a wide range of equipment. As always, it depends more on your skill than the gear. So read the manual, practice practice practice, and learn from your experiences.

Size: DSLR will be big and heavy, taking up a large suitcase or more. An M43 system will be half that size but still a load. Compact systems can be quite small, easily fit in a carry on bag. Would I want to travel by air with it (then size and weight matter more)? If you don't take your rig because it's big and heavy, it really does not matter how good it is.

Obsolescence: Regardless of what system you choose, you should expect that something much better will be available in 2-3 years for larger systems, and in 1 year for compacts. Keep that in mind when you make investments in your system.

The questions to ask depend on what's important to you, but that's a start. That's just a top of the head opinion, but my point is there is probably no one right answer for today, and if there were it would be different in a few months. All we can do is pick a good compromise that matches our values today, and then enjoy shooting with it for as long as it suits.

Notice that I have not said one word about macro or wide angle. If you look at the pictures posted here, you will see that people can shoot good macro with all of the current better cameras. We have an embarrassment of riches, so many good choices. I think that's why it can be befuddling.

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I can make a specific suggestion for the G11 in Canon Housing.

Macro: The G11 will only close focus wide, and what you want is close focus at longer focal lengths so you can back off from the subject. To do that, you need one or two wet macro lenses, but the Canon housing won't directly mount them. Use an M67 adapter for it, and some wet macro lenses.

Wider: There are several light weight wide angle wet lenses that can be mounted on the available adapters for the Canon DC34 case, but look at these two: the high quality Dyron 14mm ($500 with adapter), and the less expensive Fantasea Bigeye ($220 for dedicated version #5135 or $300 for M67 version #5137 with M67 adapter). I have the 5135, and it acts like about a .7x converter, while the Dyron 14mm is said to be a .5x converter. Try one of those to extend the use of your existing setup.

Note: The Dyron 14mm M67 lens needs an M67 adapter (see below), while the Fantasea has two versions, one with built in adapter for the Canon DC34 Housing (#5135), and one with M67 threads that needs an M67 adapter but allows use of M67 macro lenses too (#5137).

Dyron: http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/dyron-14mm-dome

Fantasea: http://www.helixcamera.com/UW/fantasea/access/5137.html


You can easily make an M67 adapter yourself if you are handy, by drilling a 67mm step ring:

You can buy an M67 adapter from several sources: Dyron, FIX, Deeproof, and Fantasea.
 
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In competent hands, the DSLR system can give the best image quality, M43 second, compact third. But I said competent hands. The skill of the photographer is more important than the equipment. Most of the quality is up to you.

Amen...!
 
stages.jpg The P is where you start printing then everything goes to hell
Bill
 
Thanks for the answeres!
I did some measurements with my Canon G11+WP-DC34+Inon wet lens.
with UCL-165M67 wet diopter, macro mode
working distance: from wet lens to subject
DOF: where it is quite sharp


zoom in work.dist. magnif. DOF
--------------------------------------------
50% 50mm 1:2,2 12mm
70mm 1:2,5 18mm
90mm (max.) 1:2,6 25mm

66% 50mm (min.) 1:1,7 10mm
70mm 1:1,9 12mm
90mm 1:2 16mm
100mm (max.) 1:2,1 20mm

75% 60mm (min.) 1:1,6 8mm
95mm (max.) 1:1,8 12mm

max.zoom-1 80mm (min.) 1:1,3 6mm
90mm (max.) 1:1.4 7mm

max.telezoom 80mm (min.) 1:1,1 4mm
95mm (max.) 1:1,2 5mm


in WP-DC34 without wet lens, macro mode
working distance: from housing's flat port to subject
(in macro mode max. ~50cm)

zoom in work.dist. magnif. DOF
--------------------------------------------
WA end 30mm 1:4,7 good
50% 55mm (min.) 1:2,3
66% 60mm (min.) 1:1,8
75% 160mm (min.) 1:3
80% 170mm (min.) 1:2,5
max.zoom-1 280mm (min.) 1:3,2
max.zoom 280mm (min.) 1:2,8


macro_g11.jpg

So you can see, that when using wet diopter at about 66%,75% zooming you get a quite usable DOF, with quite good blurring,
but working distance is very small, only 9-10cm, and max. magnification is about 1:1,8, 1:2
Without wet lens at about 75%,80% zoom the working distance is better, 16-17cm, but DOF is big, less blurring, and max.
magnification is 1:2,5 1:3
 
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Some good comments here, but let me add my two cents' worth. You mention macro and super macro. I do not believe you can shoot super macro on a point and shoot. I use a Nikon D300s DSLR in a Subal housing. For supermacro I use a Subsee 5x or 10x diopter on a flat port with a 105mm lens. I have also used a 2x "Woodie," and found it works well. The other excellent DSLR wet diopter is a Macromate.

The problem with the less expensive Woodie wet diopter for cold water divers (I am in Seattle), is that once removed on a dive, it is almost impossible to replace.

So, if you really want to shoot super-macro, I think your only option is a DSLR. A mistake many of us have made is purchasing less expensive gear initially, and regretting it later on.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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