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defkonmusic

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Location
Los Angeles, California, United States
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Hey Everyone,

I just finished my PADI Open Water certification last week and would like to outfit myself with some entry level gear. I have a cruise planned in a couple weeks and have been looking everywhere for good advice. This is what I know... I would like a BC that does not have integrated weights but does have multiple air outlets, or at least one extra on the bottom. I don't have a preference on the regulator but I would definitely like a dive computer. Other than that I have no specific preferences.

I do not have much of a budget since we are saving all our money for the cruise. I would really like to own my gear but I don't really know where to start. Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.

Thanks!

:confused:
 
Firstly, you can consider buying second-hand equipment. ebay etc often have a wide selection of scuba equipment on auction. Just remember to factor in the cost of an inspection/service into cost equation.

There is no specific criteria for 'entry level' gear. Divers tend to buy the best gear they can within their budget. Cheaper gear reflects lower manufacturing, marketing costs etc. In general, cheaper stuff reflects less functionality or ruggedness... but that is not necessarily the case.

Do you already have an idea about the sort of diving you intend to do? If you have, these requirements may affect the scuba configuration you should opt for.

For instance, an occasional diver, who travels (holidays) to dive locations may be best served in obtaining a very light-weight and simplistic set-up.

If you plan on diving regularly (weekly/monthly) at home, then you may opt for a more sturdy, heavy weight set-up.

If you think your diving may develop with more training and experience... then a modular set-up that allows you to upgrade and amend your configuration at minimum cost may be preferable. Think 'future proofing'. This is especially true should you ever venture into the realms of cave, wreck penetration or technical diving...where equipment requirements become more specific (and, yes, I understand that may seem a very long way off now.... but it will save you money if identify the right kit with your inital purchases).

Just addressing your immediate needs (the upcoming cruise), then your best option would be to identify a lightweight, low-profile bcd. Something that folds/packs relatively flat and won't weight down your suitcase. Zeagle is a popular brand in the USA and they offer some good options that fill these requirements. Another choice would be a 'wing' bcd with a soft travel harness (such as the OMS 'IQ' or DiveRite travel).

Any regulator from Scubapro, Oceanic or Apeks will be fine for you. For warm-water, holiday diving, they will all perform fine. You may wish to consider the options in terms of weight and ease/availability of spares/repairs/servicing though. If you may also be diving in temperate (colder) waters, then you will have to do more research on finding a regulator that is appropriately rated for cold water diving.

Virtually every dive computer on the market will provide for the requirements of the average recreational diver. Most of them also work with nitrox, should you later train to use that.

The cheapest computer options will offer Air algorythms in a slightly over-sized casing. You will pay more if you want something watch-sized. I would always recommend the Suunto Gekko as a perfect entry level computer.
 
Thanks a lot DevonDiver. That is great advice. I just found a BCD pretty cheap in the classified section. Its a Mares Vector Origin 1000. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
 
It looks like a decent enough jacket-style BCD for the (very little) money you would pay for it.

This is the typical sort of BCD used by dive centers for rental. It is cheap and offers basic functionality without any frills. It won't last a lifetime, nor would it be ideal for some types of advanced diving activities.


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I don't know what the second-hand price is, but I found it online HERE for $220 and on AMAZON for $169-$197.

There is a review of it online HERE

Personally, I couldn't use a jacket-style BCD...I am a long-time convert to BP/W. It's worth investigating those (many threads here on SB) as a long-term purchase.
 
What ever you go for, try before you buy, even if that is only in the swimming pool. Most shops will happily let you have a go with the different bits and pieces they have in their rental locker if you are going to buy from them.

P.S. I did my OW in a Vector, not my favourite BC (backplate and wing convert) but certainly no worse than any other BCD I've used, as long as it is the correct size for you I don't think you'll be disappointed by it. But it did feel quite light wait so if you are buying second hand make sure it has no leaks in the bladder or get some kind of written assurance from the seller that if when you get it it leaks he/she will take it back and refund your money.

P.P.S. To check for leaks Inflate it (can be done with the oral inflate if you don't have a cylinder and reg) until the overpressure valves pop. Splashing the whole BC with soapy water and look for any clumps of bubbles forming on the surface.
 
P.P.S. To check for leaks Inflate it (can be done with the oral inflate if you don't have a cylinder and reg) until the overpressure valves pop. Splashing the whole BC with soapy water and look for any clumps of bubbles forming on the surface.

And/Or... just inflate it and see if it considerably deflates over time. If it does, then you can go through the tedious process of soapy water bubble checks....

The bubble check process can be complicated because of air seaping from the outer-cover and not the bladder itself...or escaping from an over-pressure valve (as designed). It will also not catch any leaks from the LPI connection.

1-15mins = major air leak

15-60mins = air leak

60 - 120mins = minor air leak

120mins+ = very minor/inconsequential air leak
 
Thanks again everyone for this helpful and valuable advice. I went ahead and purchased the BC. It only cost me $100 with shipping and to sweeten the deal the seller threw in some Mares full foot fins in my size (good as a backup pair). The add said the BC was "Brand New" and I figured that the worst that could happen is I wasted $100. In the grand scheme of things that's not a lot of money to loose in this hobby.

I am sure that I will be "upgrading" all my gear the longer I am diving. Just like with any other hobby I start out at the bottom and shortly find myself buried in expensive expensive. As a sound engineer and musician I know how Pandora's box gets opened by a couple features I can't live without. :)

For now, all I can say is that I will be happy with this BCD if it functions properly and doesn't leak. It seems to have all the features I want for now. Ill be sure to let you know how it turns out when I get it in the mail. I think my next purchase will be a reg. and computer. If you have any more suggestions please let me know.
 
That's a sweet deal.... for $100 you can't go wrong. It'll pay for itself rapidly just from saved rental costs...and if you upgrade, you've lost nothing.

For your computer purchase, I would also recommend investigating second-hand options. People tend to upgrade their computers occasionally, so entry-level models often pop up for cheap $$s on Ebay etc. Have a search for Suunto Gekko.... it is an excellent quality, cheap, no frills computer (that does everything a recreational diver needs from a computer) and it comes from a very well respected manufacturer. If buying second hand, the key factor determining cost should be the remaining battery life.

As for regulators, most people here would say any set from Scubapro, Apeks, Oceanic or Aqualung would do you proud. If diving in cold-water, just make sure the regs you get are appropriately rated for that. If buying second-hand, remember to factor in the costs for having the regs serviced before you use them (for peace of mind). On a personal level, I recommend Scubapro.
 

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