Nitrox blending stik

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The_DivePirate

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Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
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Location
Central Oregon, @ 4500'
# of dives
200 - 499
Hey guys,
I have a pretty good idea of how to build a blending stik, but was wondering if ne1 had first hand experience? It will be inline with a 15cfm Ingresol Rand.

Dive safe/Train hard
Joe
 
The quickest and simplest setup is to use a static inline mixer from Cole-Parmer, http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/vcatalog_page.asp?p=1186
add a couple of “T’s” and you are good to go.

You don’t need the vacumm/pressure gauge that is in the attached photo and it is debatable if a check valve is needed. I think so, and have found that it makes a difference when blending with helium.
 

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I built a couple of skiks for use with my Bauer Capitano and a Kidde portable. They are two inch PVC, nothing fancy, just what I could find at Home Depot. I cut a small piece of 3/16 brake line and threaded it 10-32. The PVC pipe was drilled and tapped to take this home made barb. The intake of the stik is a PVC 2 inch cap with holes drilled. Intake air is filtered with a 2 inch felt pad normally used with air compressor filters. The felt is fitted into the round nose cap without glue. When the cap/filter pad is pressed on the pipe the felt will not shift or distort, it fits perfectly. I also made a second intake with a small engine filter. The filter is a small cage with a pipe fitting on bottom. This is screwed into a PVC cap and pressed on the PVC pipe. Inside where the pipe penetrates the cap, I glued a non return valve from a two hose regulator. I thought this might be of some use when pumping buoyant helium but who knows. It looks cool. I stuffed some Gottschalk stainless steel sponges (scouring pads) inside the PVC pipe. On the bottom, an elbow was fitted. This was capped and drilled and tapped 1/2 inch NPT. Into this was fitted a PVC coupler which is a 50 cent piece of plastic threaded 1/2 inch male/ 1/2 inch female. The diameter of this piece is 1 inch, perfect for running a clear plastic hose from the fitting to the Bauer compressor. The elbow on the bottom of the PVC pipe makes for easy, lateral routing of the hose and serves as a trap for any particles left inside the stik. The output of the stik goes through the hose and into the Bauer intake housing where it is filtered before being inhaled by the machine. On the other stik, which feeds a portable compressor with no integral filter, a foam pad is inserted near the bottom of the stik and held in place with a spring formed from a SS hose clamp. This prevents any particles getting through. On both stiks, holes were drilled and tapped near the bottom for the O2 sensor. It takes about an hour to make a stik, not including shopping for the bits and pieces. Generally, I used whatever stuff I had on hand and shaped them to fit. For example, the foam pad was cut from seat cushion foam using a hole saw. I don't believe it serves any purpose to go artsy fartsy on these stiks, at least not those for personal use. My mixes generally end up within 0.2 percent accuracy. I found that my compressor does not produce consistent output throughout the pressure range. This is due to age and blowby. So, when pressures exceed 3000 psi it is necessary to dial back the O2 a bit. For a short time, I used a bleed from the compressor to check O2 at the point of delivery but after a short learning curve I disconnected it. I don't need it to get accurate mix.
 
boydski:
Hi Joe,

I've built two Nitrox blending sticks. One for a 6 CFM Rix and one for a 25 CFM dive shop compressor. They both work great.

Good Luck with your project.

Joe,
with the 25 cfm compressor were there any issues with O2 delivery, or with startup stability, i.e. how much O2 is wasted dumped before you get a stable output?

I have a 22 cfm, and I'm debating about continuous blending. It seems with the volumes involved, and the volume of the filtration towers that a lot of O2 could be wasted.

I'll need to be able to make mod Grade E air anyway to PP blend 50%, so I'll have the option of PP blending into my banks.

I'm tempted to skip the continuous blending and the attendant risks with an oil lubed compressor.

Thanks for the info.


Tobin
 
boydski:
Hi Joe,

I've built two Nitrox blending sticks. One for a 6 CFM Rix and one for a 25 CFM dive shop compressor. They both work great.

Good Luck with your project.

So, was there any spec differences, height,diam,baffles,ect.

Thanks, more input would be appreciated,
Joe
 
cool_hardware52:
with the 25 cfm compressor were there any issues with O2 delivery, or with startup stability, i.e. how much O2 is wasted dumped before you get a stable output?
Tobin

Hi Tobin,

On the 25 cfm compressor, the stick I built was a replacement for a commercially made Nitrox Stick which was stolen. The only modification I made was to drill larger and more holes in the PVC caps I used for baffles.

The dive shop using the home-made stick reported that they actually used less oxygen than the brand-name product and that output seemed more stable and easier to control. I'm guessing this was due to reduced overall flow, but they were quite happy with how it worked and are still using it.

I'm not sure what the do about all of the oxygen in their filtration towers, but I do know they typically only pump Nitrox one day a week so have lots of tanks lined up.

On my single 32" filter, the dwell time is only a couple of minutes, and I do have a post filter oxygen analyzer that I can use to tell me when the oxygen is getting to the fill whips. Although in truth, I rarely actually need to use the second analyzer. I typically only use it when filling 40 cubic foot deco cylinders (because they are small and fill fast enough to be off if I don't wait for the right mix to get past the filter).
 
Depending on the size of the filters, there can be quite a bit of residual air or gas floating around in the machine's components. This air, unless it is purged, will throw off the mix by a 1/2 percent. When pumping EAN, my practice is to purge the compressor with nitrox for a minute while venting off gas from the final filter followed by closing the tap, building pressure and then opening the tank valve.
 
pescador775:
Depending on the size of the filters, there can be quite a bit of residual air or gas floating around in the machine's components. This air, unless it is purged, will throw off the mix by a 1/2 percent. When pumping EAN, my practice is to purge the compressor with nitrox for a minute while venting off gas from the final filter followed by closing the tap, building pressure and then opening the tank valve.

Do I understand that you bleed the filter stack to ambient, then start the O2 flow, dump the output for a minute and then start collecting the gas?

I anticpate my filter stack will hold ~200+ cuft of gas if the back pressure valve is set at 3000 psi.

Thanks,

Tobin
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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