noobie needing some help mako k14 4cfm

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quazy

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I bought a compressor off ebay on a whim.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&autorefresh=true&hash=item2eb4148127&item=200589738279&nma=true&pt=BI_Air_Compressors&rt=nc&si=H%252FW8gUzgbn0I7m5isrx4YgQE%252BM4%253D
And wondering what i need to look for to see what it all needs to get it up and running.
Just wondering what procedure i should go threw to check it over. And what could be my worse case for repairs? I paid $1100 for it with shipping. So i hope it wont take much to get it up and going or if i will be able to find any parts. I live in central iowa and if you guys could recommend a shop that might help also. Thanks

p.s. yes its the same compressor in this old thread
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/classifieds-other-gear-multiple-items/310583-mako-k-14-compressor.html
 
Quazy, you are now a vintage diver because that compressor certainly qualifies as vintage. That does not mean you got a lemon though.
If you are pumping to 3000 psi you shouldn't have many issues with it providing it has been well maintained. These pumps are capable of higher pressures but some of the filtration parts may need to be upgraded.

I would start by taking of the oil pump drive chain cover on the front of the block and inspect the chain and tensioner and then put a little grease on the chain.
Your unit may have an oil pressure gauge, if it doesn't then you may want to install one. The gauge should be a 1500 psi gauge and if you tap into the oil pressure relief valve on the 4th stage. There will be 3 ports on the PRV. 2 that are close to the 4th stage cylinder and one that is for the return line that should have a plastic tube on it and goes back into the side of the crank case. You will use the one of the 2 ports that are closest to the cylinder that isn't being used. Oil pressure is important so this should be considered a manditory upgrade. You can order a mini gauge through Lawrence Factor and install it right on the PRV or run tubing to a gauge housing of some sort. The fitting threads is actually metric but you can use a 1/8 npt thread and it wont leak. Tape or use plumbers dope on the threads first though. Your oil pressure should be 900 psi.

I just had a closer look at the pix on Ebay and just forget all that about the oil pressure relief valve set up. Your unit is older then that so I am not sure if you can tap into the pressure line to install a gauge.

Change your oil, recommend synthetic oil Chemlub 751 or 800 if you live in a hot climate.

put a wrench on every line and check that they are snug. Do a good visual inspection then give it a run and check for large air bubbles in the oil return tube. There should not be any. Check for leaks and if all is good then service the purification system, that the seperators apart and clean them out. Take the old filter out clean and clean and inspect the filter housing for pitting, replace the filter with a new one. If the filter housing is pitted do not use it, you will need to get a new one.

Once everything has been checked and you are ready to pump air then I recommend you get the air tested, Lawrence Factor again.
If you could post pictures of your unit it would help, just go to the paper clip on the reply tool bar and then upload the pix from you box.

Oh and by the way, welcome to the ScubaBoard.
ZDD
 
Looked at the pic of the compressor. you could have a real winner here, or...
in addition a couple of things not mentioned previously.

get an air test done and see if the numbers are good for an oil compressor, this may give some idea of how good the cylindars and rings are as far as oil blowby. the other thing is i looked at the tech data page and see it references 2800 as 4th stage output. wil you be filling lp tanks or perhaps pushing things a bit and doing 3k and above. i do not know if the 2800 is the max output or the working output. as old as this is i guess it was made for 2250-2600 fills, 3k + could accererate problems and not let you get your money out of it.

per the previous poster ......sounds like you have a good technical source.

I think you made a good decision in getting your own compressor. as many shops that are closing makes it hard to get air in a timely manor.

dont know who to see in mid iowa for a shop ....it has been a long time. when i was there last the closest was lake okaboji but that was decades a go.

i was raised webster city, (texas now) in the old days we just went to the fire department to get a fill but those days also are gone.

if you want i gan get you a great write up on compressors and filtering that may help you prolong your compressor life as well as your own in regards to filtering.

good luck




I bought a compressor off ebay on a whim.
MAKO K-14 4 Stage Compressor | eBay
And wondering what i need to look for to see what it all needs to get it up and running.
Just wondering what procedure i should go threw to check it over. And what could be my worse case for repairs? I paid $1100 for it with shipping. So i hope it wont take much to get it up and going or if i will be able to find any parts. I live in central iowa and if you guys could recommend a shop that might help also. Thanks

p.s. yes its the same compressor in this old thread
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/classifieds-other-gear-multiple-items/310583-mako-k-14-compressor.html
 
Good advice zodiacdiver.

I've recently purchased a Bauer K14E, that looks very similar. I was wondering if anyone might have a service manual. Or should I post a new thread
 
Bauer is always updating there blocks so to get the exact parts list for your compressor it would be best to contact the manufacturer of the compressor, ie Jordair, Bauer, Mako and provide them with the serial number which is date coded. That way if you have to order parts you will get the right ones.
Anyway if you could post some pix and s/n I might be able to help further.
(I attacted a copy of the opperating manual, I hope it uploads)
ZDD
 
It doesn't look like the pdf file uploaded, probably too big.
PM me with your email and I will send it right to you.
ZDD
 
Good advice zodiacdiver.

I've recently purchased a Bauer K14E, that looks very similar. I was wondering if anyone might have a service manual. Or should I post a new thread

I sent you the email with the manual but a few pix would help ID the maker of the complete unit not just the block.
ZDD
 
1985 Bauer K14 Operation Manual (816Kb pdf)

Pics of my compressor
compressor_1.jpg

compressor_2.jpg

compressor_3.jpg

compressor_4.jpg
 
There both good old compressors the reason they have lasted so long is because of there low rpm. I have 30 years experiance working on these old boys. Most part are still available today some after market types as well and there are loads of parts in Europe. The only thing is that squirell cage cooling system you can't get them anymore. Silver solder works but its a bitch taking off and even worse putting that cage back on and lining it up. Those Bosh oil pumps are from Mercedies Benz yes! there engine oil pumps Bauer is great at progressive engineering.

Cheers
 
Hi Cox_sp, if that is the original oil pump drive cover then your block was made in 1973, so it is a little older then you thought. These units have the same crank set up as the newer units but the first and last stage cylinder heads are different then yours. also the cooling system and interstage separators. This unit cold be set up to pump 3500 psi but would require some upgrades.
The final stage suction and delivery valves may be difficult to find if you need to replace them, I think I might have a few used ones I poked away somewhere, when I have time I will have a look for them. You can purchase a new 4th stage head that uses the newer valves, you can get them from Jordair or Lawrence Factor.
If you remove the lines from the cylinder heads the lines may get jammed into the fitting. if it does I use the flat side of the wrench and give the line a sharp tap (not too hard) and they usually free up. Also the block is all metric including the Allen bolts.
I have to go for now, but keep me posted on your progress.
ZDD
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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