Plastic Cap problem ScubaPro MK25

[ScubaGrabber]

Folks:
Your input is much appreciated. Obviously this is a matter of opinion and preference like anything else in this world. It's nice to see that there are others out there contending with the same issue. To answer to some of the comments claiming that I am a bit too "anal" on the cap....
I am an engineer by profession, which by nature makes me very quality/detail oriented. I don't claim to speak for all engineers though. There is a very clear difference between SP regs and most other "run-of-the-mill" brands. SP does boast some very high quality products and a long history of "above the rest". My argument is simply designed to point out the fact that this cap, as trivial as it may seem, is not a good design and should be changed. Some of you may be happy just dismissing the cap all together, as it poses no danger to operation. I respect that. However, there are those of us out there that don't settle for a 95% good product, whatever it may be. Simply stated, if I had any authority over a product like this and it was my responsibility, I'd change it on new model years and issue a re-engineered substitute for my existing customers who may be inconvenienced by having to chase replacement parts on their own. Now that, my friends would be proper business and service to valued customers.
Also, the entire reg system:1st stage, 2nd stage, and gauge console with SP compass did cost close enough to $900.00 to be called just that.
I will take good advise from some of you and get replacements at time of service.
Respectfully gentlemen....

 

[mogwai]

Been usinh my Mk 25's for a few yaers now and never had any problem. Doesn't seem to be any issue after servicing either. Maybe i have just been lucky

 

[Lead_carrier]

Folks:
....
I am an engineer by profession, which by nature makes me very quality/detail oriented. I don't claim to speak for all engineers though. There is a very clear difference between SP regs and most other "run-of-the-mill" brands. SP does boast some very high quality products and a long history of "above the rest". My argument is simply designed to point out the fact that this cap, as trivial as it may seem, is not a good design and should be changed. Some of you may be happy just dismissing the cap all together, as it poses no danger to operation. I respect that. However, there are those of us out there that don't settle for a 95% good product, whatever it may be. Simply stated, if I had any authority over a product like this and it was my responsibility, I'd change it on new model years and issue a re-engineered substitute for my existing customers who may be inconvenienced by having to chase replacement parts on their own. ....

I haven't seen a problem with them. I honestly can't recall any coming in for service with the cap loose or missing. I'm sure that others have but I'm just telling what I know. I'm by no means saying was broken or not but it sounds like it was . Just have it replaced.

 

[Hoosier]

If SP is really listening to their customers voice, I would suggest upgrading its design like a screw in/out. It is much easier and safer than the just "click" design. COB.

 

[Mr. Bubble]

Mine came off after a service when I was changing out tanks. I put it back on, and it has stayed on for several dives. I noticed a cave diver/instructor that had some zip-ties on his. I asked him about it, he said that it was reuired for cave so that they don't come off. I'll check next time to see how he does it. He weaved them from the inside somehow.

Mr. B

 

[ericpitar]

This cap came off of mine in a dive trip and was never found. I'm not really too concerned about it as all experienced divers I've talked to who also have scubapro regs said its mainly cosmetic. I do agree tho it is a bit annoying to have a flimsy part on an otherwise solidly-built reg.

 

[DeepSeaExplorer]

If one of the three catches is sprung, you can put it back on, but it won't stay. It has to be replaced. I've never had a problem loosing them, other than lights out air-sharing during cave training. The quickest place I know to get one is at Peacock at the end of Peanut line just after a cave class.

One thing I have discovered is that the caps for the MK20 and MK25 do not appear to be interchangeable. If you try to put the wrong one on the wrong reg, it won't stay on.

I would replace them and keep them installed because they act like bumpers and help protect your regs from impacts.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The cap is just a trim piece. It does accomplish two things - it protects that end of the reg from scratches (you'll note them there on Mk 5. Mk 10. and Mk 15's that lacked the boot) and it allowed SP to lighten the first stage by removing a lot of brass in that area using the rubber boot to keep the same general lines. Neither of those issues affects the performance of the regulator.

One variable on whether the cap stays put or not is the presence or absence of a shim to increase the IP. The plastic shim goes between the regulator body and the seat retainer and being a bit larger in diameter than the seat retainer can affect the fit of the boot, particularly if the shim is not centered around the seat retainer.

The Mk 20 and 25 trim caps are identical except for the 'Mk 25' lettering printed on the Mk 25 cap.

Brute force is not the best approach to remove one. there are three rectangular holes in the top of the cap. They are directly over the tabs that hold it on. Turn the cap so that one of the retangular holes is directly opposite the yoke or DIN inlet fitting. The other two will then be on either side of the plastic trim piece that goes between the reg and the yoke or DIN fitting. Once you have it in this position, you can gently pry outward on the edge of the cap underneath the tab opposite the yoke fitting. Since the other two tabs are not being held in by the plastic trim piece, all three can pop loose without damage.

In the event you have one that is damaged, you can increase the odds of keeping it in place by ensuiring it is seated under the lip and then turn the cap so that one is sandwiched under the plastic trim piece under the yoke. It prevents the damaged tab from slipping outward and will usually prevent the loss of the cap.

Following the above advice, I never lost one on a Mk 20 or a Mk 25 in about a decade of diving with one or the other.

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The finned swivel cap that supports the LP port turret can be retrofitted to any Mk 20 or early Mk 25. The dealer cost is around $25.00. The Mk 25's adjustable seat retainer can also be retroffitted to the Mk 20 as well. Personally, I do not see the need for it however. It adds a potential source for a leak and there is no real need for an external IP adjustment on the Mk 20 or Mk 25. For the most part the adjustable seat retainer allows more preceise adjustment than the +/- 5 psi shim adjustment, but using shims is a better way to get the IP in the ball park anyway as the seat retainer lacks the full range of adjustment you could otherwise achieve.

Mine came off after a service when I was changing out tanks. I put it back on, and it has stayed on for several dives. I noticed a cave diver/instructor that had some zip-ties on his. I asked him about it, he said that it was reuired for cave so that they don't come off. I'll check next time to see how he does it. He weaved them from the inside somehow.

Mr. B

I have no clue why zip ties would be 'required' for Mk 25's used in a cave environment. If you lose the cap so what? I'd much rather not have a zip tie hanging out to snag line etc.

 

[Hoosier]

Brute force is not the best approach to remove one. there are three rectangular holes in the top of the cap. They are directly over the tabs that hold it on. Turn the cap so that one of the retangular holes is directly opposite the yoke or DIN inlet fitting. The other two will then be on either side of the plastic trim piece that goes between the reg and the yoke or DIN fitting. Once you have it in this position, you can gently pry outward on the edge of the cap underneath the tab opposite the yoke fitting. Since the other two tabs are not being held in by the plastic trim piece, all three can pop loose without damage.

In the event you have one that is damaged, you can increase the odds of keeping it in place by ensuiring it is seated under the lip and then turn the cap so that one is sandwiched under the plastic trim piece under the yoke. It prevents the damaged tab from slipping outward and will usually prevent the loss of the cap.

Following the above advice, I never lost one on a Mk 20 or a Mk 25 in about a decade of diving with one or the other.

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Excellent...

Thanks for a good tip as usual...