Pre-startup maintenance/safety review for a compressor Bauer Capitano C3E (1982)

[amarti2038]

I just removed the post because was duplicated

 

[sealark]

When U get it running ck oil pressure it should be set at 1000 psi never lower than 750 psi. But get it close to 1000. The adjusting screw is under that small cap on the side of the 3rd stage. Remove cap and use a screw driver screw in to raise the pressure.

 

[amarti2038]

When U get it running ck oil pressure it should be set at 1000 psi never lower than 750 psi. But get it close to 1000. The adjusting screw is under that small cap on the side of the 3rd stage. Remove cap and use a screw driver screw in to raise the pressure.

Yes, if the pressure is to low the third stage is over stressed. I found in internet that after the oil change maybe i have tu purge the oil pump due to air inside of the oil circuit. This is detected also loking at the oil presure.

 

[sealark]

Yes if it fluctuates just back off on the adjusting screw to flush it out and then tighten it down to achieve 1000 psi. That should stop the fluctuations. You got it now go fill some tanks.

 

[amarti2038]

Buff, the first compressor test/tank fill will be done the lasts days of December. The compressor is in my parents house at 1000 miles from where i am. I just prepare everything to have it ready for testing in December

 

[amarti2038]

In order to protect from the corrosion i think i will paint the compressor. There is some tip on which type of paint or how to? The air intake is near the compressor..

 

[sealark]

Use it regularly and keep it inside and you will die of old age before it corrodes.

 

[amarti2038]

Jeje..ok. Anyway i think i will paint it just to clean its face. I have seen a restored capitano and after rhe paint looks like new.

After the tests I will post the photos of the compresor tests and the air rate.

 

[amarti2038]

Hi again,


after some time preparing everything:


- change oil pressure manometer
- change all filters: air intake and tripplex (output filter)
- change the drive belt
- change the oil
- installing the electric 3 phases connection and protection
- cleaning the filter housing


i have 2 questions:


1- seeing the attached image. the intermediate separator (see 9) needs soem mainteinance/cleaning after years without beeing use?


2- aand after doing all this mainteinance, my brother connected an empty tank, opened the valves and started the compresor buut no air in the output and the triplex hausing valve started to trough out air after 2 minutes working. Do you have some idea about what can cause that?


Thanks again for your time and best regards,
Albert

 

[CraigAClark]

To your first question, depending on the modification number, there could be a vortex plate (probably plastic), bronze coalescer element, a plastic cone and plastic stem. These are all held in place in the head of the separator by the stem. Usually the vortex plate cracks and pieces fall to the bottom of the separator. If this is the case the separator loses efficiency. Also the bronze element can get clogged and reduce the output. It should be replaced every year or so. The newer vortex plates are metal and don't generally fail.

To your second question, given that the safety in the triplex tower head is functioning, if a filter is not in place or not seated properly, there is a tiny weep hole at the base of the tower, which will vent continuously. This is a "by design" feature to prevent air that has not passed through the filter from getting down stream. Another possible problem is you didn't run it long enough for the PMV to open, if it is still working.