Purchasing air tanks

[Peter_C]

Maybe I missed it above but hot dip galvanized is my preference. We have a bunch of PST tanks which are no longer made, and my tanks are all Worthington. I prefer bigger tanks myself or a set of double 100's.

Here is why painted tanks like Fabers suck!
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/410597-steel-tanks-one-junk-other.html

 

[Bob DBF]

My preference is steel for the weight it takes off the belt. When I first bought out here, I purchaced AL tanks, I could buy two for the price of one steel and money was an object. I wanted to make two dives without visiting the LDS, which was a trip in itself. As time marched on I picked up steel tanks as I ran across good deals.

Here is why painted tanks like Fabers suck!
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/410597-steel-tanks-one-junk-other.html

It says clearly that it was a repaint and the damage was under the repaint. I have several painted tanks (including 2 Fabers) and one which I repainted myself and have had no issues in their viz or hydro over the decades. I would have reservations when buying a repainted tank but not with a factory issue paint job.



Bob
-----------------------------
I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.

 

[Peter_C]

It says clearly that it was a repaint and the damage was under the repaint. I have several painted tanks (including 2 Fabers) and one which I repainted myself and have had no issues in their viz or hydro over the decades. I would have reservations when buying a repainted tank but not with a factory issue paint job.

Bob
-----------------------------
I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.

Next time you are in Monterey, stop in to Aquarius on Del Monte and take a look at the Faber they have. It was never repainted but right where the boot was it rusted beyond usability. Maybe the lesson is don't use boots? Although I like boots on my single tanks.

So far I have owned around 7 painted tanks of which two Genesis' were galvanized then painted. The rest were just painted and many showed rust.

 

[Herb-alaska]

Next time you are in Monterey, stop in to Aquarius on Del Monte and take a look at the Faber they have. It was never repainted but right where the boot was it rusted beyond usability. Maybe the lesson is don't use boots? Although I like boots on my single tanks.

So far I have owned around 7 painted tanks of which two Genesis' were galvanized then painted. The rest were just painted and many showed rust.

actually I think that the lesson is clean your gear properly. I was taught to knock off the boot of a tank and rinse and allow my gear to dry. Which I do at least every other dive.

 

[Peter_C]

^ With hot dipped galvanized tanks the risk of corrosion is so minimal there is no need to remove the boot. Plus it takes a lot of effort, as in a big hammer and block of wood to remove the boot. Not something I would want to do as routine maintenance, as I have enough gear to wash. I will agree a quick rinse or dip should be performed whenever possible after salt water immersion.

I will ask the question, why don't you see painted trailers for boats used in salt water?? I think everyone can pretty much agree galvanized is where it is at. Now I do know someone in San Diego with a galvanized, then painted trailer, for their Team Edition Super Air Nautique.

 

[cbrich]

This debate is just like any other debate on Scubaboard. There is no right or wrong answer. This has been going on for years. I have owned both kinds, and now all of my steel tanks are of one kind. Galvanize and Painted tanks have their Pros and Cons.

 

[elan]

The prive does not mean much

Different tanks have different characteristics.

One of the best tanks I have in my fleet I bought for 40 bucks each

For rec I love lp85 by faber
You have to ditch the boot. Painted tanks and boots do not live together

Al 80 are awesome for stages. One stage is good for a 100ft dive on 32

 

[Liquid Pleasure]

Go with steel. However, HP120's can be a bit long. It depends on how tall you are and how much gas you need.

 

[elan]

^ With hot dipped galvanized tanks the risk of corrosion is so minimal there is no need to remove the boot. Plus it takes a lot of effort, as in a big hammer and block of wood to remove the boot. Not something I would want to do as routine maintenance, as I have enough gear to wash. I will agree a quick rinse or dip should be performed whenever possible after salt water immersion.

I will ask the question, why don't you see painted trailers for boats used in salt water?? I think everyone can pretty much agree galvanized is where it is at. Now I do know someone in San Diego with a galvanized, then painted trailer, for their Team Edition Super Air Nautique.

I think the problem is not with the galvanized tanks per se but with the selection of the galvanized tanks on the market.

In their line worthingtons lack medium to long tanks in a 85-95 cut range with a length of 26". For people who are about 6' it's a good size IMHO. Also worthingtons are quite negatively buoyant for fresh water if you double them up. Say standard HP100 set will require winter 400 gram undergarment otherwise one will be overweight.

some faber tanks fill that niche nicely. If they maid them galvanized they would be priceless.

The double set I love the most is Galvanized LP72. It's light and has enough air. One set and a stage is enough to do too deep rec dives.

Then I love my wife's LP85s. After that I would take LP 108s which are pigs but they are very stable in the water

 

[striper]

Thanks for all the input I think the hp100 galvanized w/pro valve is the way to go for my situation.