Question to owners of OMD / Inon strobes setup

[amnong]

I’m thinking of upgrading to from E-PL3 to OMD setup (while still using optical connection), and wondering whether this issue is resolved:

In continuation to this post of “Overcoming the E-PL3 1/160 flash sync limitation with Inon D2000 strobe” (same for my Z-240)

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ol...lash-sync-limitation-inon-d2000-strobe-2.html

And the reply of Inon lab to my query regarding the mysterious problem of triggering the Inon strobe in RC mode:

"Unfortunately we were unable to find solution to accommodate INON strobe with Olympus RC mode.
We have checked behavior of the E-PL3 in RC mode.
When the RC mode is activated, the built-in flash of the camera looks like giving up to deliver adequate flash light for photography.
Instead, the built-in flash sends some optical signal to control RC mode compatible external strobe(s).
We hoped to use this optical signal as trigger an INON strobe, but the signal is very particular and not compatible with INON strobe.
INON strobe can flash by this optical signal, but the optical signal is not for photography resulting in underexposed image.
We assume this optical signal is sent out well in advance before the shutter opens".
We are sorry for not being help of you this time.
Thank you for contacting INON.

Therefore the question: Is ther eany change that makes it possible to trigger an Inon strode with OMD camera using RC / PF mode (and thus being able to use any shutter speed over the native one of the camera 1/250).
Thanks.

 

[EskilJ]

RC mode is remote control mode, it is a proprietary Olympus mode. You can only use that mode with flashes/strobes from olympus.
It is not a mysterious problem.

In RC mode the flash sends digital bytes to the slave through series of flashes. Digital bytes that are only understood if there is the "right", proprietary digital reciever in the other end.

So current Inon strobes will not understand a Olympus RC signal - but it might understand Oly normal flash.

Why do you want to run RC?? Is the problem that the small e-pl3 flash can't do faster than 1/160s, or that the Inon is too slow?
Or is it the classic double-curtain problem - in that case no flash would help.

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

All you need do is turn off RC in the menu, set the flash to the lightning bolt setting for TTL or to the manual setting and reduce power to around 1/32 power to save battery power. Set the strobe to S-TTL or manual, not manual full and control power using the right control dial.

You also need to have the on board flash popped up so it will fire, of course.

Phil Rudin

 

[amnong]

Thanks.

EskilJ: Yes, the RC mode is proprietary. It meant to be used wirelessly with Oly flashed and strobes. Although, I’m trying to use it through an optical cable.
The reason for trying to use it, is the need to overcome the 1/160, since RC mode is the only mode that once you pop out the flash, would give you any option to manually set the shutter to higher speeds than 1/160.
I gave it up on the E-PL3, I’m wondering if anything has changed in the OMD with regards to the proprietary protocol, so the emitted flash will still trigger an Inon Strobe somehow.

Phil: does that mean that in the OMD, you can actually set the camera to higher shutter speeds than 1/250, while the on board flash is popped up?

 

[EskilJ]

Thanks.

EskilJ: Yes, the RC mode is proprietary. It meant to be used wirelessly with Oly flashed and strobes. Although, I’m trying to use it through an optical cable.
I’m wondering if anything has changed in the OMD with regards to the proprietary protocol, so the emitted flash will still trigger an Inon Strobe somehow.

Well.. wirelessly.. If you think of radio, it's not the case, it just communicates through flashes. No radio waves were harmed...

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

Flash with the OMD E-M5 will sync at 1/250th and with the E-M1 at 1/320th. The only other options are to use a hard wired cord like a Nikonos V to bulkhead and this will allow you about one stop higher sync, so 1/160th to perhaps 1/250th. This would be manual only and has other downsides. The other solution is to buy the Olympus UFL-2 (?) strobe which is advertised to sync with RC at high shutter speeds. I tested this strobe early on and I did not find that it worked reliably in RC at high shutter speeds.

Slower shutter sync speeds are common with all low and mid range mirrorless cameras, even the new Sony full frame A7r a $2000.00+ camera only syncs at 1/160th.

Phil Rudin

 

[Wisnu]

The other solution is to use housed flash wired with sync cord. I have Metz 58AF1 with 10bar UWhousing, and have tried my EPL-1 to 1/2000s with the flash set at HSS.
However, it's very bulky and not ergonomic at all, so, I prefer to use 2x YS-01 instead.

 

[amnong]

Flash with the OMD E-M5 will sync at 1/250th and with the E-M1 at 1/320th. shutter speeds.
Phil Rudin

Thanks, seems that the E-M1 is the most viable option at this point.

I'm just wondering, how many people are finding higher shutter speeds as necessity in order to control the ambient light in WA, darken the background in macro shots, or freeze objects like pygmy in close macro shots?

 

[bvanant]

1/250th and f16 is pretty darn dark unless you are at 3 feet deep. This allows you to have very black backgrounds (assuming you have open water behind your subject) and motion blur at 4 msec is almost non-existent for most fish. Do you really have big problems with the 1/160th limitation or have you read that you might so you worry.


Bill

 

[watboy]

Shot on a sunny day in clear water with an EM5, 1/250th shutter speed, F13 and ISO 200, Dual Inon Z240 strobes. No processing other than sizing. For Macro, 1/250th sync speed is more than enough. And for freezing macro objects, your strobe is faster than your shutter.

Thanks, seems that the E-M1 is the most viable option at this point.

I'm just wondering, how many people are finding higher shutter speeds as necessity in order to control the ambient light in WA, darken the background in macro shots, or freeze objects like pygmy in close macro shots?