Questions about buying a primary light

[D_B]

Sure have. Get 2+ at 21 and 4+ at 13.

The light that you are referencing is the exact light we will be diving, so you will get to see size, brightness, etc. The rating (burn time) that you are getting on this light is based on 21W burn. If you cut it back to the 13W setting when you do not need the brightness of the 21W, you will increase your burn time. If you run it at 13W the whole time, you will get 4 hours burn time, so that may make a difference to you...or not. But I did want to put that out there.

Chris,

Does this make sense? So basically what you are saying is that I could purchase this light for $800 and have a HID focusable 13/21W light that is perfect for local rec diving. (2 dives @ 21W or 4 hours @ 13W). And it has a very small light can:

Dimensions: 2.3" D x 6.9" L
Buoyancy: -.1 lbs.

Then later, when/if I end up doing more aggressive diving I can add wetmate connectors for $50 and upgrade by buying another interchangeable battery/canister (a battery with double bottom time is $440 more) Sartek Industries, Inc. CBP Series Underwater Batteries and Accessories

So for the initial investment of $800, this light will serve my local needs now, and is easily upgraded when/if I need more.

Very excited to see it on Sunday. Interested to see how large the light head/ballast combo is.

Does anyone else own this light? Is the switch considered acceptable as part of a DIR gear config - I've read the DIR equipment config conventions and can't find anything against it.

Thanks.

I've been looking and I can't see anything about that light (13w/21w)for $800 ?

 

[HenrikBP]

Looks like MSRP is $1045

Sartek Industries, Inc. HID LIGHTING SYSTEMS AND COMPONENTS

9th light down.

Quote;

MINI5H2113DS (U.S. Pat.# 6,679,619)
21/13 Watt Focusable HID System with on/off/21/13 watt switch on the head, 4.4AH Lithium Ion Battery Pack in Screw Cap PVC Canister with the new rotary switch (Belt or Backplate Mount), HID-GSHR Adjustable Rigid Goodman Handle, and Universal Fast Charger (100-240 VAC). Burn Time about 2 hours

MSRP $1,045.00
End Quote.

Henrik

 

[D_B]

OK, thought they were talking about the 8.8ah one .. it's only about $150 more to double your burn time over that one with the 4.4ah battery

I still wonder what light she's referring to for $800
... if there's a deal, I want in

 

[Gombessa]

Chris,

Does this make sense? So basically what you are saying is that I could purchase this light for $800 and have a HID focusable 13/21W light that is perfect for local rec diving. (2 dives @ 21W or 4 hours @ 13W). And it has a very small light can:

Dimensions: 2.3" D x 6.9" L
Buoyancy: -.1 lbs.

Then later, when/if I end up doing more aggressive diving I can add wetmate connectors for $50 and upgrade by buying another interchangeable battery/canister (a battery with double bottom time is $440 more) Sartek Industries, Inc. CBP Series Underwater Batteries and Accessories

So for the initial investment of $800, this light will serve my local needs now, and is easily upgraded when/if I need more.

Very excited to see it on Sunday. Interested to see how large the light head/ballast combo is.

Does anyone else own this light? Is the switch considered acceptable as part of a DIR gear config - I've read the DIR equipment config conventions and can't find anything against it.

Thanks.

I'm a little reluctant to suggest an a la carte solution to can lights. For one, you'll probably want to stay on 21w nearly all of the time, which will limit your burn to 2 hours. That's barely adequate even for a typical 2-dive day, and ensures that you'll have to worry about when you turn on your light, remembering to turn it off during your surface swims to and from shore, etc. etc. In short, I doubt it'd be sufficient for you even now. But also, you're going to end up paying much more down the road for something that would cost just a little bit more right now, and going the E/O route adds some real unreliability to the system.

Consider that battery lifetime is affected by how often and how deeply it is discharged. You're nearly guaranteed to run a 4AH battery down to 10% on every dive day. And what if you're on a boat, or a liveaboard where you may dive more than twice a day? You'll need to try to charge it, worry about running on a lower setting or otherwise conserve battery, or end up getting another can sooner rather than later.

Lastly, I'm not a fan of underwater pluggable cords. They add to cost, they're definitely flaky, and they're known to become even moreso over time (the owners manual for some lights suggests pounding them with a rubber mallet when they start causing intermittent lost connections. They're great if you have a specific need for them (switching lightheads underwater, using video lights or undergarment heaters, etc). But will you need one on a 4AH canister? I don't think so. I've done everything I can to deal with mine - using mallets, Sartek-like hose clamps, zipties, electrical tape, and they're never 100% reliable. It makes me nervous stowing my light on a night dive

If a 9AH canister is only $150 more, that's a screaming good value over paying $500 later. That battery pack has plenty of juice for any kind of diving you'll be doing at Monterey, and will probably enjoy a longer life since you'll only discharge it 50% or so on a typical day (and has the stretch to last on those extended dive days too). Plus, you can eliminate the cumbersome E/O cords from the equation, and just buy extra batteries if you need.

 

[kathydee]

I'm a little reluctant to suggest an a la carte solution to can lights. For one, you'll probably want to stay on 21w nearly all of the time, which will limit your burn to 2 hours. That's barely adequate even for a typical 2-dive day, and ensures that you'll have to worry about when you turn on your light, remembering to turn it off during your surface swims to and from shore, etc. etc. In short, I doubt it'd be sufficient for you even now. But also, you're going to end up paying much more down the road for something that would cost just a little bit more right now, and going the E/O route adds some real unreliability to the system.

Consider that battery lifetime is affected by how often and how deeply it is discharged. You're nearly guaranteed to run a 4AH battery down to 10% on every dive day. And what if you're on a boat, or a liveaboard where you may dive more than twice a day? You'll need to try to charge it, worry about running on a lower setting or otherwise conserve battery, or end up getting another can sooner rather than later.

Lastly, I'm not a fan of underwater pluggable cords. They add to cost, they're definitely flaky, and they're known to become even moreso over time (the owners manual for some lights suggests pounding them with a rubber mallet when they start causing intermittent lost connections. They're great if you have a specific need for them (switching lightheads underwater, using video lights or undergarment heaters, etc). But will you need one on a 4AH canister? I don't think so. I've done everything I can to deal with mine - using mallets, Sartek-like hose clamps, zipties, electrical tape, and they're never 100% reliable. It makes me nervous stowing my light on a night dive

If a 9AH canister is only $150 more, that's a screaming good value over paying $500 later. That battery pack has plenty of juice for any kind of diving you'll be doing at Monterey, and will probably enjoy a longer life since you'll only discharge it 50% or so on a typical day (and has the stretch to last on those extended dive days too). Plus, you can eliminate the cumbersome E/O cords from the equation, and just buy extra batteries if you need.

Thanks so much everyone for all the advice. I checked out this Sartek light this weekend and the light head was reasonable in size, the tiny canister was inviting but I hear your logic and have found perhaps better options to investigate. Just in case anyone is interested in this Sartek light, here is the link to the sale: ScubaGearPlus Products Sartek 21 Watt Focusable Mini-5 Light System, Canister Light Systems

Can anyone share thoughts about this unit? Found another deal .
Salvo 21 Watt 14.4 Volt Remote Head
-10.4 Amp 14.4 Volt NIMH Battery Providing 300 Mins. of Burntime
-21 Watt HID with 1500 Lumen Output @ 6500 Kelvin
-Dry Weight 7 lbs.(3.2kg) 3 lbs(1.36 kg) Negitive
-Recharge Time from Complete Discharge 5 hours
-9.25"(234mm) Length, 3.5"(88mm) Diameter

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

One note about the 18w: the bulbs are fragile, and when they blow, they're expensive to replace (over $100 for a new one). You could get an 18w (which really puts out just about as much light as a 21w), dive it until the bulb goes (and hey, it might not), and then send the lighthead to Sartek for Carl to retrofit a 21w bulb for $150. Then, you get the benefit of the tougher bulb for about the same price as a replacement 18w bulb. If ever your new 21w breaks, replacement bulbs are cheaper.

The fragile bulb only applies to those that use Welch-Allyn bulbs ... Halcyon, for example.

I have owned (and still use almost daily) an older model 18W Salvo that is still on its original bulb, with well over 1,000 dives on it.

By comparison, my second canister light was a Helios 9. The bulb in that light lasted less than 100 dives ... and it cost $225 for a replacement bulb.

After a time I sent it off to Howard Sandroff for some retrofitting. After that, I had a Halcyoff ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[Gombessa]

The fragile bulb only applies to those that use Welch-Allyn bulbs ... Halcyon, for example.

Yep, sorry if that wasn't clear (i realize W-A offers 21-24w HIDs as well, which use the same lamp as the 18w). Also, from what I can see, the fragility issue is only with the long and skinny 18w lamp capsule, the stubby 10w lamps are pretty hardy.

 

[laurin]

Welch Allyn have upgraded their 10W HID bulbs and ballasts recently to 14W and 1000 lumen output. Also, the ballasts are not as picky about input voltage as the previous ballasts.

Used W-A-based 10W HIDs seem to run at about $250-$400, so getting one and upgrading it to 14W is a good option. The upgrade isn't hard if you're not totally ham-handed, and after the upgrade my old 10W light is a good match to a 21W HID in terms of signaling efficiency.

A 9Ah/14W HID is now my #1 choice for Mexico cave diving - small for travel, enough punch, and the burntime is good for two long dives a day with reasonable reserve.

The 14W ballasts and bulbs are available at the W-A webshop, at a fraction of the price asked by dive light manufacturers for replacement parts. Look for Solarc NGX.

//LN

 

[kathydee]

Great news! I found a light!

I just bought a 1 yr old used 21W Salvo 9.6Ah LiIon with only about 7 freshwater dives! Yes it was a reasonable price.

Can't wait for it to show up!

I hope parts/service are available, but if not - good news is it seems that there will be plenty of us to share the misery!

Classes start pretty soon! I'm really excited!

Thanks everyone for all the great advice/suggestions!! DIR forum is the best!!!

And a special thanks to those of you who went out of your way to help me out - I really appreciate it ;-)!

Oh if anyone is looking for a light here is the link to the 15W dive rite for $649.98 http://www.scubadiscounters.com/Div...men_Slimline_HID_Ligh_p/li_lt6250-hid1000.htm

 

[b1gcountry]

You'll love it.