Recent Stripper pics to share

[SteveAD]

I would recommend against sand blasting or even sanding. Per DOT regs removal of any material is supposed to condemn a tank.

 

[LG Diver]

I would recommend against sand blasting or even sanding. Per DOT regs removal of any material is supposed to condemn a tank.

I've never tried this on a tank, so my advice is worth exactly what you've paid for it but I would imagine that a Scotchbrite pad would even up the surface finish nicely without actually removing any appreciable material.

 

[Tom Smedley]

The really fine grit sandpapers don't remove any metal, they just polish the surface removing oxydation. Besides that, Big Brother doesn't have to see everything.

 

[mike_s]

Well, an update on this tank, for those who might be interested.

I wanted to use the stripper before I took it to the hydro facility in case it damaged the strength of the tank any, which I thought was a "long shot" of happening anyway.

Got it back from Hydro today and it passed fine and visual fine. So no apparant damage from the "Aircraft Remover" stripper product.


Interesting note about the hydro facility. Our local "hydro shop" is actually a pretty big operation. They are a nationwide fire equipment manufacturer and sales company. They even ship all over the place. They even had several new fire trucks that had been ordered by departments there and do maintenance work on them. Well they have two full time people who all they do is hydro, visuals and fills on tanks. I thought that was pretty impressive to have enough work for 80 hours a week worth of tank work. But then I realized they actually had more people than that. The have a whole seperate group who re-fills fire extingishers and paints them. (Of course fire extingishers need hydro's also). It was kinda neat to see. (I hadn't been there in about 5 years).

Got out of there with a hydro, visual, and airfill for $19 bucks. You can't beat that either.

(BTW. Their air certificate was Grade E tested last in May. Certificate up near compressor on wall. Nice to see shops post that info also).

As for the tank, I still haven't painted it. Won't most likely now. I'll prob try cleaning it with vinegar,etc like someone suggested.

hope everyone enjoyed my 'hydro trip report'. heh.

 

[costi]

Well, an update on this tank, for those who might be interested.

I wanted to use the stripper before I took it to the hydro facility in case it damaged the strength of the tank any, which I thought was a "long shot" of happening anyway.

Got it back from Hydro today and it passed fine and visual fine. So no apparant damage from the "Aircraft Remover" stripper product.


Interesting note about the hydro facility. Our local "hydro shop" is actually a pretty big operation. They are a nationwide fire equipment manufacturer and sales company. They even ship all over the place. They even had several new fire trucks that had been ordered by departments there and do maintenance work on them. Well they have two full time people who all they do is hydro, visuals and fills on tanks. I thought that was pretty impressive to have enough work for 80 hours a week worth of tank work. But then I realized they actually had more people than that. The have a whole seperate group who re-fills fire extingishers and paints them. (Of course fire extingishers need hydro's also). It was kinda neat to see. (I hadn't been there in about 5 years).

Got out of there with a hydro, visual, and airfill for $19 bucks. You can't beat that either.

(BTW. Their air certificate was Grade E tested last in May. Certificate up near compressor on wall. Nice to see shops post that info also).

As for the tank, I still haven't painted it. Won't most likely now. I'll prob try cleaning it with vinegar,etc like someone suggested.

hope everyone enjoyed my 'hydro trip report'. heh.

Tanks for the post!
What does the Grade E signify in air grades or rather...what are the various ratings?
Bob

 

[mike_s]

Tanks for the post!
What does the Grade E signify in air grades or rather...what are the various ratings?
Bob

I'm not an "air expert" but I've heard that Grade E is pretty good and I think you need Grade E-Plus for partial pressure mixing with pure O2. (If I'm not mistaken).

Maybe someone can answer what the difference in "air grades" is better than I can.

 

[H2Andy]

ok, i'm just cutting and pasting ... i dont' know how accurate this is.

the grades are, according to the Compressed Gas Assciation, Inc. (CGA):

Grade A -- Industrial compressed air
Grade L -- SCBA (self-contained breathing apparatus)
Grade D -- OSHA breathing air
Grade E -- SCUBA
Grade J -- Specialty grade air, analytical applications
Grade N -- Medical/USP air

http://www-nehc.med.navy.mil/ih/respirator/breathingAirQuality.htm

apparently there is a Grade E plus, or oxygen compatible Grade E, which is grade E with reduced maximum acceptable carbon monoxide, hydrocarbon and particulate levels for use in technical diving applications.

http://www.fillexpress.com/library/gasquality.shtml

 

[Scared Silly]

" A must is wearing high "yellow dish gloves" and eye protection. Getting it on your skin will irritate it also as will inhaling the fumes, so a paper filter mask helps also."

Just an FYI - Most paint strippers are nasty. Even in the enviromentally nice ones. Paper filter masks do not help with fumes. They keep particulates from coming in. For fumes you need a respirator. Even doing this outside can cause harm if the fumes do not dissipate. When doubt use a fan near by to create a breeze. And preferable point it in the direction of your brother-in-laws car ;-).