RIX SA3 Belt Tensioner

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

SurfLung

Contributor
Messages
195
Reaction score
214
Location
Central Minnesota
# of dives
500 - 999
One thing that has bothered me ever since I got my RIX SA3 is the floppy top section of the belt. No matter how tight I get the belt, the top of the belt still flops, causing vibration and noise. I figure it's because the top section is pushing to the compressor pulley and that creates slack. While the bottom of the belt is pulling from the compressor pulley which keeps it nice, tight, and smooth running. Perhaps a shorter belt would stop the top section from flopping. But instead I made a belt idler/tensioner. And that has absolutely solved the floppy belt problem. Here's a video of this set up.

The white stuff you see on the pulley rims is actually a reflective dot I put on them so I can read the RPMs. But it's also helpful here to see how smooth and true the pulleys are spinning..
:D
 
One thing that has bothered me ever since I got my RIX SA3 is the floppy top section of the belt. No matter how tight I get the belt, the top of the belt still flops, causing vibration and noise. I figure it's because the top section is pushing to the compressor pulley and that creates slack. While the bottom of the belt is pulling from the compressor pulley which keeps it nice, tight, and smooth running. Perhaps a shorter belt would stop the top section from flopping. But instead I made a belt idler/tensioner. And that has absolutely solved the floppy belt problem. Here's a video of this set up.

The white stuff you see on the pulley rims is actually a reflective dot I put on them so I can read the RPMs. But it's also helpful here to see how smooth and true the pulleys are spinning..
:D
Wow, good job. I have this same issue (and posted about it in the other forum). That's a pretty good idea. Mine vibrates so much sometimes I'm scared the belts will fly off.

Do you always run with the cover off or plans to modify that to go back on?
 
@rob.mwpropane you might ave a bit more of a challenge running 2 belts depending on how close they currently are in actual length, Probably not really an issue, but if one is significantly longer I could see it potentially bowing into the tensioner pulley which is limited by the tightest belt.

I had envisioned using an automotive type tensioner to allow quick-changing between an electric motor and IC engine. Crank tensioner loose, pop belt off power-source 1, pop on power-source 2, release tensioner. Might need 2 different tensioners depending on geometry. I do have some concern about the ability of a typical tensioner system to be the prime controller of tension/drive-coupling when getting to 5-7HP sources as in an SA6., but hell my tractor mower and snowblower belts are all spring/idler tensioned and that is (well, was) 23HP.
 
@rob.mwpropane you might ave a bit more of a challenge running 2 belts depending on how close they currently are in actual length, Probably not really an issue, but if one is significantly longer I could see it potentially bowing into the tensioner pulley which is limited by the tightest belt.

I had envisioned using an automotive type tensioner to allow quick-changing between an electric motor and IC engine. Crank tensioner loose, pop belt off power-source 1, pop on power-source 2, release tensioner. Might need 2 different tensioners depending on geometry. I do have some concern about the ability of a typical tensioner system to be the prime controller of tension/drive-coupling when getting to 5-7HP sources as in an SA6., but hell my tractor mower and snowblower belts are all spring/idler tensioned and that is (well, was) 23HP.
Both belts are identical part #'s.

I posted in the other forum, what they said made sense. The resonance from the compressor and the diesel engine overlap at a certain point and create a vibration. Basically what I experience is the belt goes in and out of being somewhat tame to vibrating a good bit and then back again. Neither compressor or engine seem to be out of wack. The belts have been tensioned to spec as per the manual.

A diesel engine is just stupid loud and very prone to that type of thing. If @SurfLung is getting good vibration from his little electric it makes sense that I get a good bit more out of my little screaming banshee of an engine.

I wear ear muffs because it's so stupid loud. My boss has asked me not to run it before ~ 7am because it's so loud. A tensioner might not actually do anything different, but it sure would help me rest easier while the thing is running.
 
My compressor isn't a Rix, but here's a tensioner I made, using a generic V belt idler. The bracket that the pulley is mounted on is a random slotted piece that I found in my junk bucket.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5663.jpeg
    IMG_5663.jpeg
    90.4 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_5702.jpeg
    IMG_5702.jpeg
    109.7 KB · Views: 58
Nice job smiffy6four!
thanks! I built the rig with a Walter-Kidde 4.2cfm compressor, that I bought from SB. It came without the drive side of things, and Jim Sheldon was able to provide the part needed. I made the frame out of aluminum angle. Great little machine!
 

Back
Top Bottom