scubapro MK DIN adaptor removal

[wausman]

Hello,

I bought a MK25 with a DIN adaptor installed and a extra Yoke Adaptor. And the LDS wants to charge me a full hour labor to change it. After all the money I spend there need less to say I was not very happy. I have some drawings of the reg and see that it torques at 266 lb in But can not seem to get the old one out. Whats the best way to remove this?

 

[Bubbletrubble]

First of all, I think your LDS is being ridiculous. The procedure is a relatively minor one, only takes a couple of minutes to do, and would really make the customer happy. If you purchased your MK25 and accessories at the shop, then I think they are being even more ridiculous.

To clarify, you currently have your reg DIN-configured and you'd like to use it with a yoke tank valve. The way I see it, you have 3 options:

1. If you're only going to do a few dives with the yoke tank valve, it may not make sense to do the full-blown conversion. You could buy a DIN-to-yoke adapter ($30-$80 new) that would allow you to use your DIN configured reg with yoke tank valves. No tools are needed at all. Just spin the adapter on by hand and connect it to the tank valve. Easy.
2. Another option is to do the DIY replacement. To help guide the repair, you should first download the MK25 technician's manual from this site. The DIN connector should be loosened with the appropriate hex key/allen wrench. Make sure that you have installed the appropriate yoke parts in the correct order into the first stage. You should use a torque wrench fitted with a special socket that fits the yoke nut. I do know of some people who have used a giant adjustable crescent wrench instead. If you do this, expect to strip the soft brass nut. You will also likely be way off on the recommended torque specs. I highly recommend that you have the proper tools (torque wrench, special socket, extension) on hand if you take this route.
3. Your last option is to be patient and wait until your reg needs to be overhauled. If you provide the yoke parts, the reg tech should be able to install them during reg re-assembly for no additional charge. No extra labor is involved.

Good luck.

 

[halocline]

You first remove the filter retainer in the DIN fitting, it's a small allen wrench, I believe the same size as port plugs (5/32 or 4mm). That will expose the larger allen fitting, 6mm I believe, and that removes the DIN fitting. To install the yoke fitting you'll need a modified 1" socket (basically ground down to fit in the yoke) and a torque wrench.

 

[wausman]

First of all, I think your LDS is being ridiculous. The procedure is a relatively minor one, only takes a couple of minutes to do, and would really make the customer happy. If you purchased your MK25 and accessories at the shop, then I think they are being even more ridiculous.

To clarify, you currently have your reg DIN-configured and you'd like to use it with a yoke tank valve. The way I see it, you have 3 options:

1. If you're only going to do a few dives with the yoke tank valve, it may not make sense to do the full-blown conversion. You could buy a DIN-to-yoke adapter ($30-$80 new) that would allow you to use your DIN configured reg with yoke tank valves. No tools are needed at all. Just spin the adapter on by hand and connect it to the tank valve. Easy.
2. Another option is to do the DIY replacement. To help guide the repair, you should first download the MK25 technician's manual from this site. The DIN connector should be loosened with the appropriate hex key/allen wrench. Make sure that you have installed the appropriate yoke parts in the correct order into the first stage. You should use a torque wrench fitted with a special socket that fits the yoke nut. I do know of some people who have used a giant adjustable crescent wrench instead. If you do this, expect to strip the soft brass nut. You will also likely be way off on the recommended torque specs. I highly recommend that you have the proper tools (torque wrench, special socket, extension) on hand if you take this route.
3. Your last option is to be patient and wait until your reg needs to be overhauled. If you provide thadditional charge. No extra labor is involved.

e yoke parts, the reg tech should be able to install them during reg re-assembly for no

Good luck.

First to clarify I did not buy this at the LDS but have spent $1000 this year already and even more last year at this LDS. And have already talked to the owner about more classes. And he knows I have another $1000 of equipment I am getting ready to purchase. As a business man I would have gave the customer a good deal on this if not done it for free since it would cost me nothing to do a few Minutes of work makes the customer feel good and coming back. But anyhow from what I read this is not uncommon with dive shops. Not saying all shops.

After I remove the top screw with a Allen wrench and the filter from the Din Is there a larger Allen screw inside? And will I need the first stage handle that they show in the repair manual? does this just screw into the treads just don't want to mess up the threads. The socket I can make and have the torque wrench to put on the yoke.

I will be doing most dives with yoke valve.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

You should read the tech repair manual before proceeding. Based on the questions you're asking, I think it would be best for you to get a $30 DIN-to-yoke spin-on adapter and use that for now. Then, when you turn in your reg to get its annual overhaul, present the reg tech with the yoke parts and ask him to install them during re-assembly. No extra charge.

I think that anyone who owns a DIN regulator should have a spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter in his save-a-dive kit. It's a very useful item.

FWIW, yes, I've found that a first stage handle can be helpful in properly tightening a yoke nut or DIN handwheel/threaded connector to specs. A used threaded CO2 cartridge can work in a pinch as an inexpensive first stage handle.

It sounds like you are unhappy with the service that your LDS is providing. Perhaps you should work with another LDS to purchase the rest of your gear.

 

[Zung]

... After I remove the top screw with a Allen wrench and the filter from the Din Is there a larger Allen screw inside? And will I need the first stage handle that they show in the repair manual? does this just screw into the treads just don't want to mess up the threads. The socket I can make and have the torque wrench to put on the yoke...

Yes, there's a 6mm Allen "screw" buried inside. To get at it, you'll need an extra long socket key, or be a little creative; I put the long end of a regular key in and use a "box" wrench on the short end as a lever. If you're weary of the handle, use a padded vice to keep the 1st stage still; padded envelops work nicely to protect the chrome.

Given the proper tooling, the whole thing takes all of 1 or 2', like it's been said before. Maybe you should find another LDS.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

At the first SP tech seminar I ever attended, the instuctor showed us an alternate field expedient for removing or torquing a yoke or DIN retainer on the Mk 25. Basically, you get the breaker bar or wrench positioned on the forst stage, then place the first stage on the floor and step on it to hold it in place while you apply pressure to the wrench.

Whether you use a padded vice, a first stage wrench or step on it, be sure to remove all the hoses first.

As noted above, there is a 6mm female hex fitting inside at the bottom of the DIN retainer and you will need a long reach 6mm allen socket to reach it.

It only takes 5 minuts to change drom DIN to yoke, and it is unfortunate that the shop is charging you a full hour's labor to do this. $5 would cover it and doing it free as a courtesy to a good customer would not be unheard of. To be fair though, $25 or so for an hour's labor is still much cheaper than the tools needed to do it correctly - yoke socket, long reach allen socked and torque wrench - if you do not already own them.