Scubapro mk5 din conversion kit

[Joris Vd]

Hello everyone again,
I was wondering if any of you guys know if the modern scubapro universel din conversion kits work on the old mk2 and mk5's?

I really love my mk5's and old 2's but would prefer if I could convert them to din300

With kind regards,

Joris

 

[runsongas]

The mk5 does I believe with some modifications to the spacing. Check with herman and couv.

 

[scubafanatic]

If memory serves, based on old Scubaboard related threads, the MK5 (at least) won't work with the new universal DIN conversion kits, which is why the original OEM MK5 Din converters rarely come up for sale and are expensive when they do. As 'runsongas' mentioned, I remember some DIY threads involving machining/customizing things to make the modern DIN converter work/fit, which was something I wasn't willing to do with my MK5's, but I did manage to scrounge up maybe 3-4 OEM DIN converters a while back so I'm sufficiently covered on that front.

 

[Couv]

With the newer MK2 models you can use the universal DIN fitting. For the older MK2 models contact @AFdivedoc who found a workaround using a Sherwood DIN fitting.

For the MK 5 workaround I'll have to search. AWAP found a way using a washer as a spacer, but he's no longer a member.

I miss that guy.


Edit: I just dug up one of The Master's old post.

Scubapro Din Adapters - Mk5

"I am using a Scubapro Universal din retainer on one of my Mk5s. I added a brass washer (about 1mm thick) to prevent the retainer from seating so deep as to damage the o-ring seal in the threads. I modified the plastic spacer (saddle) that came with the retainer so it would not bind during operation. Seems to be working fine."

In the same thread @raftingtigger also has a solution.

Edit deux:

From Master Awap via email:

The problem with the universal retainer in a Mk5 is it is just a bit too short. That results in the o-ring being damaged by the body threads and some binding on the saddle when you try to tighten to the specified torque. I simply added a brass washer between the body and the end of the retainer and the problem was solved. It needs about 1mm of added length so start with one washer and torque to 22 ft-lb. If the o-ring stays in good shape then check that the saddle does not bind. If there is damage or binding, add another washer. I also used a Mk 20/25 saddle on one Mk5 but ground some of the plastic off that was causing too much contact with the body.

 

[halocline]

I found MK5 DIN retainers and am using those. They are about 2mm longer than the universal retainers. There's a fairly recent thread I started where there was discussion about this:
Beginner's Guide to Regulators

 

[AFdivedoc]

If your "old" Mk 2's have a male inlet fitting, the DIN fittings for the present day Mk 2+ and other Scubapro regs won't work. I found out several years ago, however, that Sherwood DIN fittings work fine on these old unbalanced piston regs. Their thin yokes aren't appropriate for modern 3000 psi tanks, so converting them to DIN is desirable. Otherwise they are the same inside as the Mk 2+ (same seat, O-rings, etc). I have two Mk 2's and two Mk 3's I converted this way, and I've used them as deco regs for years. This works fine, since they only have one HP port and 2 LP ports. I use the Sherwood DIN fittings made for the Blizzard/Brut/Oasis line of regs.

I'm sure someone will tell you that death is lurking around the corner with this practice, but these regs have worked well for me for years without a hitch. Proceed at your own risk.

They aren't the best looking regs around, but are very functional. That's a Mk 2 on the left and a Mk 3 on the right.

By the way, I have a Mk 5 set up with a DIN fitting. I bought it that way off an auction site. The previous owner simply did away with the saddle. Other than perhaps not having the cosmetic appeal of that spiffy chromed piece, it has served me quite well.