SeaLife Dc1000 or Sea & Sea 1200HD

[FrankPro1]

Enjoy your D10. Those are sweet cameras.

Still waiting for the DC1000 replacement for my defective DC800 to arrive, as promised (about a month ago).

Just got the email from Leisure Pro that the DC1000's are in stock. Seeing as SeaLife probably sent them out to everyone at once, you should probably receive yours soon.

 

[SeaLife Joe]

Sorry Frank, misread your statement.

John, We will have the DC1000 a the show. We will have both recent pics and videos from the camera.

 

[hendenburg2]

The thing I'm most concerned about when purchasing the Sea&Sea, is the battery life of the unit. The SeaLife has 500mah and 1.3v more on its battery. With the Sea&Sea LCD being bigger, it should have come with a stronger battery. Is this a credible worry? How long would a typical 3.7v 750mah battery last underwater? I've had a lot of problems with my current Olympus dying on me mid dive and I don't want to repeat the experience with my new camera.

frankpro1: though i can't exactly speak to a definite time limit, i can tell you that the Sea&Sea definitely has a double-whammy flaw in it's design as you mentioned. electronics run on high/low signals. anything above 1.5 volts is considered "high". this means that the sea&sea battery only has 2.2 volts before it "dies". the sea life has an extra 1.3 volts with which to operate. the extra 500 mah is a result of the higher voltage, and a lower total resistance (5 milliOhms for the Sea&Sea, 4 milliOhms for the Sea Life). the second part of this is the larger LCD. LCD screens burn through power, which is why laptops dim their screens when you unplug them. you can combat this by lowering the screen brightness, but it depends on your dive conditions.


i personally am going with the DC 1000 because of reviews taht i have read. the main things taht attract me to it are the fact that (according to professional reviews) the sensor and chipset are specially calibrated for underwater light frequencies (which, to address another person's post, means that taking a regular above-ground camera and taking it underwater causes color imbalance problems to everyone except skilled pros. not to mention waterproof cases for said cameras do not allow them to go to near the depths that cameras built for underwater can go to). the other reason i like the DC 1000 is that it has GUI step-by-step during-dive setup instructions for adjusting color ratios. again, something that usually requires training to do. (sealife joe, feel free to correct me on any of this if i got anything wrong, this is just info i culled from other reviews and literature out there)

 

[Misa]

The focus on Sealife can be with wide lens 16 mm instead of 35 of Sea&Sea and without the lens Sealife has 24mm vs 35mm.