Thank you Scott, I searched the web and already read that review. It is helpful and the website is helpful too. I wish there were anyone who had both cameras and posted reviews for both, than it would be sort of apple-to-apple comparison. I realize that Sea&Sea is more advanced camera. I need to push myself to spend that much more money.
SeaLife DC1200 or Sea&Sea DX-2G
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Thank you Scott, I searched the web and already read that review. It is helpful and the website is helpful too. I wish there were anyone who had both cameras and posted reviews for both, than it would be sort of apple-to-apple comparison. I realize that Sea&Sea is more advanced camera. I need to push myself to spend that much more money.
Matt S.
Contributor
With raw and manual, the DX-2G is a camera you can grow into. Also it has good controls, highly customizable, like no other camera I have used.
It's a good thing you don't care about video though, I find its video quality quite poor.
It's a good thing you don't care about video though, I find its video quality quite poor.
Hi plok,
the big question is- what do you want. Do you want a camera which takes pictures where you are in control of the camera or do you want the camera to do the work.
If I had to choose; I 'd definitely take the 2G. Yes- it is more expensive, but you will soon realise that you can grow with this one and have fun using it for a long time. I bought the 1G in 2008 and have really learned to use it.
Question is also- what is a good picture for you? In my opinion, sealife cams are ok- but since you are already shooting topside with a dslr, then it is definitely not the cam for you.
My pics with the 1G, YS110a flash, closeup lens and wide angle lens: SEA&SEA DX-1G camera
Good luck with you decision
Thank you, Paula. Pictures are really impressive. I couldnt figure out which one is a stitched photo good job.
You are talking about the 10x diopter and another guy mentioned 3x diopter. What are these beasts? I didnt see one on the DX-2G system chard. Who makes the them, and how do they attach to the housing.
Another question is how easy it is (how long does it take) to switch from wide-angle to close-up underwater? Is it possible to do it underwater or you have to set the camera configuration before the dive?
Paula Schi
Registered
Hi,
first of all thank you for the compliments.
The first pic is a stitched one. Photoshop helps a lot with these shots.
I have the S&S 125 close up lens in use and did some experiments with a 10x diopter stacked.
It is very hard since you only have a really small depth of field (in this case it was like maybe a few mm). I would just stick to the 125 for close ups.
Switching underwater is fairly easy: clip it off and put on the other one. You don't have to screw it on or so, it's just a turn to the left and it's tight. Takes a few seconds.
And you can change everything underwater.
first of all thank you for the compliments.
The first pic is a stitched one. Photoshop helps a lot with these shots.
I have the S&S 125 close up lens in use and did some experiments with a 10x diopter stacked.
It is very hard since you only have a really small depth of field (in this case it was like maybe a few mm). I would just stick to the 125 for close ups.
Switching underwater is fairly easy: clip it off and put on the other one. You don't have to screw it on or so, it's just a turn to the left and it's tight. Takes a few seconds.
And you can change everything underwater.
Hi Plok
Are you shooting Raw when using your dslr topside? If not, start using it for a while to get a feel for the advantages. I shoot raw under and above water. Most of the time it is not that critical topside, but even there using raw enables me to make corrections that I find necessary. Under water Raw is a must in my opinion for serious photography. This could be the deciding factor between the two cameras. I agree there is a large price difference. I started under water with the Nikonos V and when that camera flooded I went digital. My first digital camera was the Sealife DC500 and I was very pleased with the results. I didn't have any manual control with this camera but you can still get good results. After several years I upgraded to the Sea&Sea DX-1G and bought the full package with the Sea&Sea arm, the Ikelite YS-110 and the wide angle lens. I never regretted this switch. A lot of money indeed, but certainly worth it. The only time I don't shoot on manual is when I am using ambient light (no strobe). Check pictures in the websites in my signature. All recent pictures are made with the DX-1G. But a lot of the pictures on my Favorites page (Favorites - Favorites - Curacao Diving Paradise) are made with the Sealife DC500. With the DC1200 you should be able to get at least the same results.
I still use the Sealife DC500 to show people what is possible with a rather simple P&S camera provided you either use an external strobe or do proper white balancing in shallow water (I am an Underwater Photography instructor).
Hope this helps. If you can spend the money I would go for the DX-2G. But try Raw first topside. The downside (if any) of shooting raw is that you need more processing afterwards.
Are you shooting Raw when using your dslr topside? If not, start using it for a while to get a feel for the advantages. I shoot raw under and above water. Most of the time it is not that critical topside, but even there using raw enables me to make corrections that I find necessary. Under water Raw is a must in my opinion for serious photography. This could be the deciding factor between the two cameras. I agree there is a large price difference. I started under water with the Nikonos V and when that camera flooded I went digital. My first digital camera was the Sealife DC500 and I was very pleased with the results. I didn't have any manual control with this camera but you can still get good results. After several years I upgraded to the Sea&Sea DX-1G and bought the full package with the Sea&Sea arm, the Ikelite YS-110 and the wide angle lens. I never regretted this switch. A lot of money indeed, but certainly worth it. The only time I don't shoot on manual is when I am using ambient light (no strobe). Check pictures in the websites in my signature. All recent pictures are made with the DX-1G. But a lot of the pictures on my Favorites page (Favorites - Favorites - Curacao Diving Paradise) are made with the Sealife DC500. With the DC1200 you should be able to get at least the same results.
I still use the Sealife DC500 to show people what is possible with a rather simple P&S camera provided you either use an external strobe or do proper white balancing in shallow water (I am an Underwater Photography instructor).
Hope this helps. If you can spend the money I would go for the DX-2G. But try Raw first topside. The downside (if any) of shooting raw is that you need more processing afterwards.
Matt S.
Contributor
When the DX-2G shoots raw it also writes out a jpeg, so it's not like you HAVE to use the raw file... It's there if you need it though. Of course, shooting raw reduces the number of pics you can take consecutively on this camera. But shooting in a burst you'd outrun the flash recharge anyway.
Thank you all, who contributed to this tread. It was very helpful. I have made my mind; it will be the DX-2G. I hope this thread will help someone else to take the right decision. The right decision is not necessary the same as mine
, the DX-2G should be the right choice for me. The DC1200 as I understand is a very good camera too, but apparently DX-2G allows being more in control, and thats what I want.
There probably is no corner on the www featuring DX-2G and/or DC1200 that I have not visited at least once. Well, I should probably take back my initial statement that these two cameras belong to the same niche. It is obvious to me now that the DX-2G is much more advanced camera.
Another tough task is to locate a reliable reseller who ships to the US, but still save some $. The start up kit that I am looking for consists of DX-2G, wide-angle with caddy and the YS-110a with the Sea Arm and the fiber optic cable. As I understand that would be the minimum kit worth considering. I would appreciate your suggestions. Thank you.
, the DX-2G should be the right choice for me. The DC1200 as I understand is a very good camera too, but apparently DX-2G allows being more in control, and thats what I want. There probably is no corner on the www featuring DX-2G and/or DC1200 that I have not visited at least once. Well, I should probably take back my initial statement that these two cameras belong to the same niche. It is obvious to me now that the DX-2G is much more advanced camera.
Another tough task is to locate a reliable reseller who ships to the US, but still save some $. The start up kit that I am looking for consists of DX-2G, wide-angle with caddy and the YS-110a with the Sea Arm and the fiber optic cable. As I understand that would be the minimum kit worth considering. I would appreciate your suggestions. Thank you.
hammerhead man
Contributor
I think that you will not regret your decision. The DX-2G takes great photos. Regarding your previous questions about focus. The two focus options that I use often are multi and spot focus. When I'm taking a shot of a reef I will use the multi-focus option but if I am taking a macro or shot of a specific fish, I will use the spot focus option so that I can get a sharp image of the object I want to photograph.
Regading your search for a seller, you might want to check on ebay. You can get a price reduction; however, you want to ensure that it is from an authorized Sea&Sea dealer for warranty purposes. To see if it is an authorized dealer, find out who is selling the camera and then contact Sea&Sea to check if they are an authroized dealer.
Regards,
Bill
Regading your search for a seller, you might want to check on ebay. You can get a price reduction; however, you want to ensure that it is from an authorized Sea&Sea dealer for warranty purposes. To see if it is an authorized dealer, find out who is selling the camera and then contact Sea&Sea to check if they are an authroized dealer.
Regards,
Bill
hammerhead man
Contributor
Regarding finding a place to purchase your camera, here is a price from Adorama camera. I have purchased several items from them and never been disappointed: 06622P1C Sea and Sea DX-2G Pro Package with YS-01 Strobe. I also know that Willloughbys camera is an authorized dealer: SEA&SEA DX-2G SS-06622P YS110 Lightning Underwater NEW - eBay (item 180542474772 end time Aug-11-10 11:44:37 PDT). Most places will sell the pro kit for around $2500.
regards,
Bill
regards,
Bill
Finally I got time to post pictures from my Philippines dive trip taken with my new Sea & Sea DX-2G. Check: Picasa Web Albums - Vladimir Grinevitch - Diving in Phi...
Dont lash me out too harsh this was my first real underwater photography experience. Pictures were initially cropped for the slide show targeted a wide-screen TV; they would probably look better with proper cropping. I see myself many beginner errors in composition, lighting, etc. Conditions were not particularly very good for photographing. Visibility was pretty average with a lot of tiny marine life suspended in water creating backscatter. Ive learned that the best time for underwater photographing in there is April to mid-July when waters are calmer and clearer. Day-to-day picture quality was slowly improving, but I had only 10 days 
My priority is to get a good focus light before the next trip (any suggestions?). I struggled to focus the camera in conditions with low contrast.
I would appreciate your comments and advices.
Many thanks to Scott Gietler and other article authors at Underwater Photography Guide. I spent numerous nights at the computer studying theory before taking off for the trip.
Many thanks to Steve De Neef (Steve De Neef Photography, underwater and nature images, workshops) who to my luck happened to be an underwater photography instructor at Atlantis Dive Resort where we stayed, and has given me few valuable advices as well as helped to quickly get a pair of strobe sync cables that I (shame on me) left home.
Dont lash me out too harsh this was my first real underwater photography experience. Pictures were initially cropped for the slide show targeted a wide-screen TV; they would probably look better with proper cropping. I see myself many beginner errors in composition, lighting, etc. Conditions were not particularly very good for photographing. Visibility was pretty average with a lot of tiny marine life suspended in water creating backscatter. Ive learned that the best time for underwater photographing in there is April to mid-July when waters are calmer and clearer. Day-to-day picture quality was slowly improving, but I had only 10 days 
My priority is to get a good focus light before the next trip (any suggestions?). I struggled to focus the camera in conditions with low contrast.
I would appreciate your comments and advices.
Many thanks to Scott Gietler and other article authors at Underwater Photography Guide. I spent numerous nights at the computer studying theory before taking off for the trip.
Many thanks to Steve De Neef (Steve De Neef Photography, underwater and nature images, workshops) who to my luck happened to be an underwater photography instructor at Atlantis Dive Resort where we stayed, and has given me few valuable advices as well as helped to quickly get a pair of strobe sync cables that I (shame on me) left home.
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