Single Tank Valve Question

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cozumelkeith

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Location
Boston, MA
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Hey All,
Want to replace the yoke valve on my Al80 with a DIN. After a bit of online research doesn't seem like there is really much of an advantage gained by using a 300 bar valve vs. 200 bar valve. Just wanted to get the general DIR/GUE consensus... I will obviously have to change my reg (Apeks DST) from yoke to DIN as well. I intend to pursue cave/tech training in the future and so Im sure will have many regulators, but for the time being with the one reg - is it feasible to switch my reg from DIN to yoke (and back) if doing vacation diving where DIN tanks may not be available? When the conversion is done (from DIN to yoke for example) is it possible to just save the DIN parts and convert again when I return?

Thermo valves seem to have a good rep, any other recomendations?

All the best,
Keith
 
I have heard though that those adaptors are a PITA hitting you in the back of the head???
 
I would not switch the reg from din to yoke back and forth. The threads are tiny and you candamage them if you are not carefull.
The adapter although adds to the height of the reg is not a problem if you position the tank properly. I do it all the time on my vacations and yet to have an issue.
Personally i would get a valve that uses an oring for sealing the bonnet valve (dive rite, blue steel, oxycheq, halcyon) rather than a crash washer like thermo. Bit its just me - i fond them easier to source and easier to service. But thermo is a fairly good valve and you can find the seats easy.
 
If you use the newer regs that turn at a 90 degree between the first stage and the yoke/DIN connection then the adapter shouldn't put too much length on it. Your Apeks should be one of these types.

On the other hand if you use a reg that comes straight from the yoke/DIN to the first stage then the adapter will likely push it into your head.
 
I'm with AJ. I HATE my 300 bar valves.

You can use a DIN to yoke adapter. It moves the first stage forward about 3/8". I don't know whether the parts you change will work, or whether you would need a completely separate adapter.
 
I'm AJ!

But ya, get 200b valves. 300b valves are kinda pointless.

The trick to a DIN to yoke adapter is to angle the tank valve a bit so the knob kinda points at your right shoulder.
 
Could he get a DIN valve with a pro-plug and keep the yoke reg for now? Then when he gets into needing the 80 for a stage just get rid of the pro-plug?

PS I third or fourth the 200 bar endorsement. Whichever number we are on :wink:
 
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Could he get a DIN valve with a pro-plug and keep the yoke reg for now? Then when he gets into needing the 80 for a stage just get rid of the pro-plug?

PS I third or fourth the 200 bar endorsement. Whichever number we are on :wink:

Of cause he could! But that would be too simple and the DIR folks would not give up on their DIR ground recommending to stick to the yoke in the first place :) !
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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